Questions about a new fireplace

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Wilbursan

Member
Jan 29, 2014
114
Upper Alabama
I'm building a new house and have some questions about putting a fireplace in it. The house will come with a standard contractor-grade fireplace but I'd like something better. I've been looking at a lot of the high-efficiency fireplaces and like what I see but have a few questions about them. I don't think these questions are specific to any one model.

Some background: This is strictly for auxiliary heating and backup, it is not prime heat. The house will have a bonus room upstairs over the kitchen. The fireplace will be in the corner of the living room sharing a wall with the master bedroom and the back exterior wall. The kitchen/breakfast area is on the other side of the living room. That living room, kitchen and breakfast area are pretty open and that should heat well. There are two bedrooms on the other side of the kitchen and two more rooms at the front of the house that I don't really care about.

What I'd like to do is run some "gravity" ducting (not a forced air kit) to the master bedroom and the upstairs bonus room. The bedroom seems obvious since it shares a wall with the fireplace and the bonus room is about 18 feet away horizontally (over the kitchen) and is also on the same back wall so it should be an easy run (I'm a little worried about the distance though).

Do these non-forced air ducts generally work well? I don't expect a tremendous amount of heat, just enough to keep the room warm. They should both return air well (leaving the doors open of course), especially the bonus room since the cool air should run downstairs.

I will have a blower on the furnace - will these ducts work with and without the blower? I'd normally run it with the blower but I'd like to know if it will work in a power outage.

Can I make the vents closable so that I can send all the warm air to the living room or warm one or both rooms?

Would I be better off just running the ducts out 3-4 feet above the fireplace to get a good draft for power outages and forget trying to warm the other rooms?
 
I'm sure someone will be along shortly to discuss code issues that may arise with pass through venting. Coming from an insert owner I wonder why you would install a fireplace with the intention of upgrading it. I would consider leaving the fireplace out all together and use the savings to install a stove. Much better heat. It is my understanding that zero clearance fireplaces will require a relining of the flue as well.
 
I'm sure someone will be along shortly to discuss code issues that may arise with pass through venting. Coming from an insert owner I wonder why you would install a fireplace with the intention of upgrading it. I would consider leaving the fireplace out all together and use the savings to install a stove. Much better heat. It is my understanding that zero clearance fireplaces will require a relining of the flue as well.

No, I won't install one and upgrade, I simply mean that I don't want the standard fireplace the builder will use. It will be put in while the house is being built. And I don't want a stove, I much prefer a fireplace. I'm sure the builder can handle all the code issues, he's one of the best in town.
 
If the runs are fairly straight to upstairs you may be surprised at how much heat will convect upstairs via the ducting, even without a blower. To avoid overheating I would dump it into a hallway unless the bed room is large and isolated. This of course depends on the size of the fireplace and frequency of operation.

What fireplace make/model will you be chosing?
 
A large zero clearance such as the Pacific Energy FP30 (99K BTU max.) says this in the manual: "A maximum 20' total run including 2 - 90° bends are allowed. The venting should only run horizontally or up, never in a downward direction." I would assume that is way too large for your location, so I think a smaller unit would mean a shorter run. But, the specs I have quoted are for a gravity feed, not with a blower. A blower should change the numbers. I would shop around on the internet and it's pretty easy to find the specs.

I think sending the heat to other areas is a great idea, as long as you remain in the specs the mfg. provides. If it's a new home, might as well do it right instead of trying to retrofit.
 
If the runs are fairly straight to upstairs you may be surprised at how much heat will convect upstairs via the ducting, even without a blower. To avoid overheating I would dump it into a hallway unless the bed room is large and isolated. This of course depends on the size of the fireplace and frequency of operation.

What fireplace make/model will you be chosing?

The upstairs room is 420 sq ft and isolated. If it's too much heat I assume I can have a duct facing that I can regulate it with (just like central heat and air ducts).

Have not picked a model yet, but like the Napoleon NZ26 (think that's right) and the Quadrafire (think that one might be too big). It may depend a lot on who the builder uses to install fireplaces. Mainly I'm trying to get a list of features I really want and then go from there.
 
A large zero clearance such as the Pacific Energy FP30 (99K BTU max.) says this in the manual: "A maximum 20' total run including 2 - 90° bends are allowed. The venting should only run horizontally or up, never in a downward direction." I would assume that is way too large for your location, so I think a smaller unit would mean a shorter run. But, the specs I have quoted are for a gravity feed, not with a blower. A blower should change the numbers. I would shop around on the internet and it's pretty easy to find the specs.

I think sending the heat to other areas is a great idea, as long as you remain in the specs the mfg. provides. If it's a new home, might as well do it right instead of trying to retrofit.

The only thing I really need is gravity feed. If this project doesn't add too much to my cost I may consider a blower for the two back rooms but that's a lower priority. One of the fireplaces I looked at listed a 10' limit horizontally so I may already be out of range.

If the power goes out the blower will be useless. Since back up heat is one of my criteria I was thinking that having a duct above the mantel would draft more air that just relying on the vents on the fireplace itself. Does that sound reasonable?
 
That is a pretty common setup. The old heatilators had a pair of intakes at floor level and a pair above the mantel.
 
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