Re-gasket tips?

[carg3]

I've been looking for a new stove for a bit, but due to lack of dealer supply in my area, and major indecision on my part, I'm burning the Harman tl200 with not much of an afterburner left, so.....it's basically a single burn stove with internal damper. (Yes, I'll be cleaning the chimney more often). I've begun to re-gasket to get me through the winter and tighten things up, but I've got one that's just plain not sticking. (It's the damper weldment, kind of an important gasket!) I'm thinking a dremel with an abrasive bit, down to bare metal. Never had a gasket that wouldn't stick at all. Any tips?

 

[bholler]

I've been looking for a new stove for a bit, but due to lack of dealer supply in my area, and major indecision on my part, I'm burning the Harman tl200 with not much of an afterburner left, so.....it's basically a single burn stove with internal damper. (Yes, I'll be cleaning the chimney more often). I've begun to re-gasket to get me through the winter and tighten things up, but I've got one that's just plain not sticking. (It's the damper weldment, kind of an important gasket!) I'm thinking a dremel with an abrasive bit, down to bare metal. Never had a gasket that wouldn't stick at all. Any tips?

With no combustion package in it what difference does that gasket make? But yes you need to get it down to bare metal

 

[carg3]

It is the same now as having a damper in the pipe. No secondary burn. I live in a high wind zone, and despite the 30+' chimney, there are the occasional puffback issues, so that gasket in particular needs to be done. (I've already done the door and ashpan). Just trying to get things as tight as possible to nurse it through this season. Do you see a problem burning it this way? Obviously, my burn habits will have to change this season. No more full loads to kick the afterburner in. More of a slow, steady load.