RE: Which option to choose with splitter repair?

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What do you think is the current resale value on your old unit, as is? Is it usable - .
 
What do you think is the current resale value on your old unit, as is? Is it usable - .

And that would be another question.

Right now the rod and cylinder are all apart . . . the hydraulic company takes it apart and gives a free estimate. Putting it back together -- fixed or how it was -- costs. The small engine shop figured I would be $150-$200 just to have the splitter put back together as it was.

Splitter runs . . . now (or would if it is put back together) . . . but there is a pretty decent leak around the seal so one would have to keep an eye on the hydraulic oil levels.
 
Find a suitable replacement cylinder. Put the unit back in action. Ya just wore out the cylinder. It happens.

Now GET BACK to splitt'in wood ya slacker.::P;lol
 
Our troy bilt 27ton splitter has a different style cylinder than an ordinary splitter. It is a trunion design also. That may be a little tricky finding a cylinder. Replacing the cylinder is a easy DIY project. No need to pay a shop to do it. Best thing to do is get the part number of cylinder and Google it. That's what I do with a lot of parts to try to save people money. If you need help finding one let me know. Also there should be a model and serial number on the splitter somewhere. You will need them.
 
You should be able to find a ram for less.
I bought 2 new ones in Canada for less than $500.
 
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I’m with Jags and peakbagger. There are many sources for cylinders of most of the designs common to big box store log splitters, and surpluscenter is a decent place to start that hunt.
 
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Northern tool For comparison, 4" x 30" x 3kpsi $260 with free shipping

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prices have likely gone up a bit but a 24" stroke 2" ram 4" tie rod cylinder at 3000 psi used to be around $250 US ( this would be 1/2" ports)

That MTD price is a gouge. ( but not unusual) I would look at Prince cylinders for starters.
 
Or, if you are close to a HD or TSC, you can go new for about $999.
 
Or wait a few weeks until black Friday and pick one up for $7-800...
 
Or wait a few weeks until black Friday and pick one up for $7-800...

$700? Really? I can’t remember ever seeing a decent splitter nearly that cheap. Best price I’ve ever seen on a Speeco 22 is $899.99.
 
$700? Really? I can’t remember ever seeing a decent splitter nearly that cheap. Best price I’ve ever seen on a Speeco 22 is $899.99.
You are too close to big money metropolis area...around here things are cheaper...TSC, Menards, and Rural King of Ohio have $7-800 splitters on black Friday quite often...22-25 tons models...TSC uses the Countyline that they normally sell. Same with the other stores, sale on the splitters they normally carry, not a "BF special" (read: built extra cheap just for the sale)
I paid $699 for my Champion 23 ton after sale and rebates...this was 5-6 years ago, but prices haven't changed much since then. Been a good splitter too, only repair I've had is to weld up the chinsey log racks (came with them) after I set too many monster rounds on them (and probably not gently either)
 
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You are too close to big money metropolis area...around here things are cheaper...TSC, Menards, and Rural King of Ohio have $7-800 splitters on black Friday quite often...22-25 tons models...TSC uses the Countyline that they normally sell.
I have to admit I haven’t looked all that closely at them, since I bought mine a half dozen years ago, but isn’t the CountyLine just TSCs latest re-badging and paint job on the same Speeco-built splitters they used to sell in red paint under the Huskee brand name?
 
I'm not so sure that it is, those older machines used an I beam, no? The Countyline has a fabricated beam, as do many of the newer models (my Champion too)
 
I wasn’t sure, so I just looked it up. Beam and frame are identical, but they changed the engine configuration.

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20150828-tsc-countyline
 
differance might be in the pump drive vert/horz. mount.
 
differance might be in the pump drive vert/horz. mount.

Yeah, I think it is. The old design used a vertical shaft engine, which really limits engine options, and a custom pump mount welded into the engine mounting plate. I didn’t really look at the pump mount on the new design, but I suspect it’s the more standard cast mount that puts the pump directly onto the engine, rather than using the splitter frame to carry each separately.

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I wasn’t sure, so I just looked it up. Beam and frame are identical, but they changed the engine configuration.

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20150828-tsc-countyline

Was at the Amish shop today and the owner said his supplier told him that Blount (Oregon/Speeco) no longer supplies Tractor Supply with splitters as I had mentioned the County Line looking very similar to the Oregon/Speeco/Huskee. He said Oregon's "new" or at least newly branded Power-Pro splitters are the old Speeco/Huskee splitters since they had apparently lost their contract with TSC. I wonder (if this is all true) if perhaps TSC may be manufacturing copies of the Speecos with a Chinese manufacturer now . . . just thinking out loud.
 
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OK, so here is where I am. By weekend end I should make a decision.

Option A: Buy a new cylinder/ram from Surplus Center and have the Amish shop put everything back in working order. With shipping I am looking at $337 for the ram. Amish shop said I could figure on another $125 for labor (I had them work on the engine as well) and new hydraulic oil. Total cost: $462

Option B: The Amish shop sells Power-Pro wood splitters from Oregon. I can get a 27 ton splitter with a Honda engine (consumer grade) for $1,150.

So here's my thinking.

Option A is cheaper . . . which is appealing to me. However, at that amount I am close to half the cost of a new splitter. I question whether fixing the splitter up and then potentially having the pump, engine or valve assembly go on this 10-year-old machine makes sense (although the Amish shop said the valve assembly and pump are cheap and do not tend to break). The shop said repowering the splitter may be $250-$350 when you factor in labor (he said the way the shaft is set up does tend to limit the choice of engines.) Our mechanic at work says Briggs engines (on the current splitter) are not robust as they once were (the Amish shop agreed, with the exception of the Vanguard line). So I know the engine could go on for several more years or it could die in a few weeks . . . and I value reliability in most everything I own whether it be an appliance, ATV, car, etc.

Option B is more expensive . . . but starting out with something new which should last at least another 10 yeas is appealing. I also have to admit I like the idea of the Honda engine, full beam, slightly faster cycle time and non-trunnion set up of the hydraulic ram. But that said . . . I have never been one that is all about getting stuff that is new and shiny. Again, I am thinking in part of the reliability.

I honestly am waffling . . . one minute I am thinking of Option A . . . another minute I am thinking Option B.
 
"... I have never been one that is all about getting stuff that is new and shiny. Again, I am thinking in part of the reliability. ...."
I would measure your piston, pins, hydraulic fittings, and order a comperable one online. Purchase or borrow some wrenches and replace it yourself- or with the help of a neighbor. Very easy to change out.
 
"... I have never been one that is all about getting stuff that is new and shiny. Again, I am thinking in part of the reliability. ...."
I would measure your piston, pins, hydraulic fittings, and order a comperable one online. Purchase or borrow some wrenches and replace it yourself- or with the help of a neighbor. Very easy to change out.

Cost of the ram/cylinder is $337 with shipping. Another $125 as I am having the Amish shop work on the engine and fill it with hydraulic oil as well.
 
I saw your comment on the work on the engine but I figured that was basic service, and hydraulic oil change, maybe I read it wrong. If there is also a problem with the engine, buy new and sell the old unit as is for $400 or whatever you can get for it and put that money towards a new splitter.
 
Valves almost never fail. You can break them, such as retracting a split stick to the wedge into the valve (DAMHIKT), but they’re basically forever components at any consumer usage rate. Pumps are too cheap to even be a factor, and the frame is forever, unless you leave it uncovered outdoors. So, for $460 you have a new splitter with a nicely broken in engine. Why are you assuming the newest Chinese junk would be more reliable or long-lasting?

I’m all for staying with the devil you know, unless it’s completely beyond the cost of replacement. That’s probably why I’m still with the same crazy woman after 20 years. [emoji14]
 
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