real thinking about taking out my drolet heatmax
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I have one 8" going from furnace I have a t one goes to living room and the other goes to me kitchen, the other 8" going from my furnace goes the full length of my house with 4 take offs I have 6 take offs altogether.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
It's hard for me to identify from the pictures, but I'd also look again into your ductwork. Not only does it look like your hot supplies might be inadequate, but even if they are ok, best I can tell it looks like you have a single, long, 8" round cold air return duct? If so, that's also very inadequate.
I agree with a previous suggestion that you might want to have a reputable HVAC guy come take a look. Even if he doesn't know about wood furnaces, just tell him 900 cfm and that should be enough for him to tell you how to change to ductwork to not be the problem.
I agree with a previous suggestion that you might want to have a reputable HVAC guy come take a look. Even if he doesn't know about wood furnaces, just tell him 900 cfm and that should be enough for him to tell you how to change to ductwork to not be the problem.
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DoubleB
Minister of Fire
For example, it sounds like the 8" outlet ducts are unbalanced; one has 2 runs and the other has 4. It would be an improvement, (but not quite a total solution), to dump both 8" outlets into a small box, then take more runs off of there. At least the airflow through the furnace will be balanced and you'll pick up a lot more heat that way.
I had trouble trying to get one 8" to the end of my house that's why I have 4 coming off that one I have a split level it was hard to do
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
A box, for example like in this picture. The box above the furnace helps balance, thus maximize, airflow through the 8" outlets. Don't need much room on top of the furnace to do it.
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maple1
Minister of Fire
Better pics might help also - like one of yours, with the same overall view of the furnace like the pic right above.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Yeah, with that long of a run I'd say they need to be upsized...and probably insulated too, there's a lot of heat and velocity lost on a run that long...
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maple1
Minister of Fire
Can you try unhooking the ducting from the top all together & see how much heat it puts out then? As a test. Finding it hard to get the whole picture of what you've got going on there.
maple1
Minister of Fire
...or unhook the 8" 'uprights' from the trunks, leaving only stubs/stacks.
Kinda hesitant in saying that as I'm not sure what all you have going on there (supply and return), and wouldn't want to get into some kind of safety issue. All kinds of potential for things/details to get lost in internet translations...
Kinda hesitant in saying that as I'm not sure what all you have going on there (supply and return), and wouldn't want to get into some kind of safety issue. All kinds of potential for things/details to get lost in internet translations...
Hi what is going on is the furnace isn't heating the house . I'm get the btus but not heating the house
How big is the box how did the 8 " attached to the box. I say that is what my trouble is
maple1
Minister of Fire
If you're getting the BTUs, there must be places in the house that are hotter than others? The heat has to be going somewhere?
That what im to figure out. I was talking to SBI about the set up they said i have to much static pressure on the duct that is only one going to the living room and the kitchen because its the closes ones to the furnace is that the trouble
maple1
Minister of Fire
If there is too much pressure in one duct, that would mean not enough heat would go there & too much would go to the others - so are some places/rooms in the house hotter than others?
If there is too much static pressure in all the ducts, then heat isn't getting out of the furnace which would show up in the furnace/surface of the furnace getting/staying too hot. Then also if the return is too restrictive that would also limit air flow through the furnace. Some simple temp measuring all over should be able to find out where the problem(s) is(are) - along with some manometer work. But temps everywhere (including the flue) would certainly help for starters. Did the new switch change anything? Need to verify it's doing its thing when its supposed to also. Think you're close to being on your own - as said only so much that can be done through a computer screen.
(Did we cover possible wet wood in past threads/posts? Getting kind of scattered here...)
If there is too much static pressure in all the ducts, then heat isn't getting out of the furnace which would show up in the furnace/surface of the furnace getting/staying too hot. Then also if the return is too restrictive that would also limit air flow through the furnace. Some simple temp measuring all over should be able to find out where the problem(s) is(are) - along with some manometer work. But temps everywhere (including the flue) would certainly help for starters. Did the new switch change anything? Need to verify it's doing its thing when its supposed to also. Think you're close to being on your own - as said only so much that can be done through a computer screen.
(Did we cover possible wet wood in past threads/posts? Getting kind of scattered here...)
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Yeah, it'd be nice to keep this all info in one place since you are still dealing with the same issue. If you PM one of the mods I think they could move/combine/link this with your original thread bedrock1.
Also, just FYI, that flex pipe you used on some of your bends has really crappy flow characteristics for this application, that definitely is not helping matters here...
That's why I suggested to install dampers in each run and/or adjustable/close-able louver register covers so as to be able to balance things as needed. Too much SP means the ducts are too small/too many bends/too long (also flex pipe) as I said in my last post. Installing a smooth running heating system is more complicated than it looks, huh?!
No SBI sent me the same thermodisc that my furnace come with, to top it off they were going to send me the kit to relocate the thermodisc on top of the furnace they don't have all the parts till 3 weeks time ,I ask if thay could take a part off other furnace no.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Go to the Hearth.com forum page, top left, right after "home", the list of staff that is online now is shown on the right, click on one of them, and then click on "start a conversation" once their profile comes up
j7art2
Minister of Fire
Just a thought, because I hopped on this thread and immediately thought "I'LL BUY IT!" (before I realized you lived in Canada) Did you try contacting Drolet directly? I emailed them on an inquiry, and they got back with me quick. So far customer service seems top notch. Nobody knows their products like they do. I know Yukon for example, gives AMAZING customer service.
If your unit is in the basement, I HIGHLY encourage you to install a fresh air intake. If not mentioned yet, I will be willing to bet a cord of seasoned oak that is your problem.
If your unit is in the basement, I HIGHLY encourage you to install a fresh air intake. If not mentioned yet, I will be willing to bet a cord of seasoned oak that is your problem.
All right Bedrock I will try to sumarise how I think this stove should run by the reading I have done on it.
A. You get a good fire going by leaving damper open or combustion blower on a half hr or so.
B. You then shut it down by closing damper etc. It should then kinda go out in bottom level but the secondarys should be firing from the wood outgassing.
C. It should then be left alone for say 8 hrs while it continues to put out some heat meaning the distribution blower should continue to run.
Im not mentioning how much or how little the heat is cause thats secondary to me. If your stove doesn't run like this its either the stove or the wood in my book. Most are saying that wood cut split and stacked 2-3 yrs. work best in this furnace.
If you like most wood burners can't get 2-3 years ahead in wood you prob would be better of with a stove like a Daka or Englander they can burn less seasoned wood with no prob you just let them get a little more airflow. I have a old Foxfire add-on furnace I bought in 1987 when I bought my house. I have many many times went out and cut some standing dead timber and went straight from the back of the truck into the basement and burned with no prob. other than it burned hot and fast. (I had to leave the bottom ash pan door slightly open for extra air flow) Not the best I know but it seemed like a lot of extra work to stack on wood pile and then stack wood from other end of pile unto truck to put in the basement.
Kind of shame if you have to sell this stove but if your not happy your not happy life is to short to be spent in a state of unhappyness IMO.
Good luck
A. You get a good fire going by leaving damper open or combustion blower on a half hr or so.
B. You then shut it down by closing damper etc. It should then kinda go out in bottom level but the secondarys should be firing from the wood outgassing.
C. It should then be left alone for say 8 hrs while it continues to put out some heat meaning the distribution blower should continue to run.
Im not mentioning how much or how little the heat is cause thats secondary to me. If your stove doesn't run like this its either the stove or the wood in my book. Most are saying that wood cut split and stacked 2-3 yrs. work best in this furnace.
If you like most wood burners can't get 2-3 years ahead in wood you prob would be better of with a stove like a Daka or Englander they can burn less seasoned wood with no prob you just let them get a little more airflow. I have a old Foxfire add-on furnace I bought in 1987 when I bought my house. I have many many times went out and cut some standing dead timber and went straight from the back of the truck into the basement and burned with no prob. other than it burned hot and fast. (I had to leave the bottom ash pan door slightly open for extra air flow) Not the best I know but it seemed like a lot of extra work to stack on wood pile and then stack wood from other end of pile unto truck to put in the basement.
Kind of shame if you have to sell this stove but if your not happy your not happy life is to short to be spent in a state of unhappyness IMO.
Good luck
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