Recommendation needed

[kgwindcl]

My home was built in 1974 and has a masonry fireplace 28 high by 41 wide. The hearth extends 14” from the firebox. I live in western MD, elevation 2500 ft. This past winter, daytime high temperatures averaged mid-teens, with several mornings well below zero. I've decided to install a wood stove and would appreciate any opinions on the following stoves: Hearthstone Castleton, Vermont Castings Encore, and Jotul F500 V3 Oslo.

Ideally, I would be able to load the stove at bedtime, and have enough hot coals in the morning that I could throw a couple of splits in on my way out. Evening load would be around 10pm and morning reload would be between 5:45am and 7am.

I have 5-6 cords of seasoned wood, primarily oak and maple, most cut to 16" or so.

A wood burning insert has been ruled out due to no easy access to electric for the blower.

The area to be heated by the stove is roughly 2000 sq. ft. over two floors with a loft over the fireplace.

Thanks for reading and let me know if more information would be helpful.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I recommend getting another 5-6 cords of wood drying. You’ll most likely use 4 cords a year and you’ll need at least 2 years to dry the wood. 3 would be best.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Can you add an electric outlet on nearby wall to help rule in an insert?
Your hearth ( technically your hearth extension will need to be at least 16 in, maybe 18 inches to meet code. While thinking about that hearth extension, it’s a good time to determine what is under it (wood form when hearth was poured ?) to see if that needs to be addressed. When in doubt, fix it or lay down a removable hearth pad if the stove/insert you buy requires a certain heat resistance.

 

[EbS-P]

If he stove is going more than 30% of its depth inside the fireplace you will want/need a blower. It’s the only way to move heat out.

Your hearth is too short and will need floor protection. More if it’s flush to the floor. Pay attention to those requirements.

I would get electrical sorted and then consider inserts. Of those stoves listed personally would not buy any of them.

 

[kgwindcl]

Can you add an electric outlet on nearby wall to help rule in an insert?
Your hearth ( technically your hearth extension will need to be at least 16 in, maybe 18 inches to meet code. While thinking about that hearth extension, it’s a good time to determine what is under it (wood form when hearth was poured ?) to see if that needs to be addressed. When in doubt, fix it or lay down a removable hearth pad if the stove/insert you buy requires a certain heat resistance.

The fireplace sits over a crawlspace. The fireplace itself is supported by concrete blocks down to a footer. I presume the hearth is as well but would need to check that.

The fireplace is in the center of the room with no adjacent walls. I could run electric up from the crawlspace but I owned an insert in a previous home and my wife hated hearing the blower, so I’ve ruled an insert out. Even with radiant heat a stove should be a huge improvement over my open fireplace.

 

[kgwindcl]

If he stove is going more than 30% of its depth inside the fireplace you will want/need a blower. It’s the only way to move heat out.

Your hearth is too short and will need floor protection. More if it’s flush to the floor. Pay attention to those requirements.

I would get electrical sorted and then consider inserts. Of those stoves listed personally would not buy any of them.

The hearth is raised. My stove choices are limited by the height of my opening. What stove would you recommend?

 

[stovelark]

Of the stoves you mentioned, the Castleton is a little light for heat output. Will the Heritage work? If so, probably a better choice. Of the ones mentioned, I would suggest the Oslo. Always has been a fantastic heater, utilizing the side door would be a real nicety, 16" wood is a little short though for what it will hold (20-22 ideal). Not sure about the VC, lots of pain left over from their history for a lot of folks, they are still a very attractive stove. A 14" hearth is a little unusual, extension of some kind looks to be a requirement. The Oslo short legs will be needed too, as its height used to be 28.25" tall, the short legs will drop height 2.25". The larger radiant heaters may not heat the whole area, but it'll certainly help out. Good luck with your search.

 

[kgwindcl]

Of the stoves you mentioned, the Castleton is a little light for heat output. Will the Heritage work? If so, probably a better choice. Of the ones mentioned, I would suggest the Oslo. Always has been a fantastic heater, utilizing the side door would be a real nicety, 16" wood is a little short though for what it will hold (20-22 ideal). Not sure about the VC, lots of pain left over from their history for a lot of folks, they are still a very attractive stove. A 14" hearth is a little unusual, extension of some kind looks to be a requirement. The Oslo short legs will be needed too, as its height used to be 28.25" tall, the short legs will drop height 2.25". The larger radiant heaters may not heat the whole area, but it'll certainly help out. Good luck with your search.

The Heritage will not work due to its height. Interesting that you like the Jotul. Years ago my dealer recommended that but is now saying I should stay away from Jotul due to their redesign following the 2020 EPA standards implementation. Instead he recommended VC but I’ve read too many bad stories/reviews to feel comfortable with that option. Which lead me to Hearthstone.

 

[kgwindcl]

My home was built in 1974 and has a masonry fireplace 28 high by 41 wide. The hearth extends 14” from the firebox. I live in western MD, elevation 2500 ft. This past winter, daytime high temperatures averaged mid-teens, with several mornings well below zero. I've decided to install a wood stove and would appreciate any opinions on the following stoves: Hearthstone Castleton, Vermont Castings Encore, and Jotul F500 V3 Oslo.

Ideally, I would be able to load the stove at bedtime, and have enough hot coals in the morning that I could throw a couple of splits in on my way out. Evening load would be around 10pm and morning reload would be between 5:45am and 7am.

I have 5-6 cords of seasoned wood, primarily oak and maple, most cut to 16" or so.

A wood burning insert has been ruled out due to no easy access to electric for the blower.

The area to be heated by the stove is roughly 2000 sq. ft. over two floors with a loft over the fireplace.

Thanks for reading and let me know if more information would be helpful.

 

[stovelark]

Beautiful hearth and fireplace- Ideal I'd think is a stove siting mostly in fireplace unless it would not mean using a side door if equipped. If the Castleton works size wise, it would look great there. A VC top loader would look great there too. I know of the Oslo V3 but have no operational time with it, where I did with the original Oslo, what a great stove. It did it all, great heat, long pieces of wood from the side door, long burn time, and it was aesthetically pleasing too. Love the raised hearth too, I'd sit my rump alongside the stove and warm up to it.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

The raised hearth is a good thing. . I find my raised hearth at the camp makes loading the stove a lot easier/

 

[John Lehet]

If you want a pre 2020 Oslo, those come up from time to time on Craigslist, or at least last fall there were a fair number of those on VT/NH Craigslist. If you’re not in this region, used wood stove listings are a lot sparser. Also in this (broad) area there are at least a couple of people/shops fixing up old stoves and it seems especially Jotuls. Unless you severely abuse a Jotul, you can keep it going for a long long time, as long as parts are available anyway. Rebuilding the interior metal firebox is not trivial, but it’s not crazy hard.

You might also think about the Woodstock Progress Hybrid vs the Hearthstone. I think one big difference is that the cat is easier to change on the Progress. Also the build/design is different, so that on the Progress there is no dependency on cement/soapstone tiles to seal the stove. There is very little cement overall in the Progress. Advantages for the hearthstone is the local dealer network for support. But that comes with a markup on the price of the stove. The Progress is a serious heater, and it absolutely will hold coals overnight. In my house, with mine, the room is always warm in the morning, even on the coldest Vermont nights this last winter. I’ve never been able to wake up to a 72 degree downstairs on a cold morning since I’ve lived here, until the Progress.

 

[Todd]

If you install a stove inside your fireplace you could always place a small muffin fan underneath or just in front of the stove blowing into the fireplace to push out the warm air. I did this in a previous home with great results. Make sure you have a good block off plate as well.

 

[kgwindcl]

If you want a pre 2020 Oslo, those come up from time to time on Craigslist, or at least last fall there were a fair number of those on VT/NH Craigslist. If you’re not in this region, used wood stove listings are a lot sparser. Also in this (broad) area there are at least a couple of people/shops fixing up old stoves and it seems especially Jotuls. Unless you severely abuse a Jotul, you can keep it going for a long long time, as long as parts are available anyway. Rebuilding the interior metal firebox is not trivial, but it’s not crazy hard.

You might also think about the Woodstock Progress Hybrid vs the Hearthstone. I think one big difference is that the cat is easier to change on the Progress. Also the build/design is different, so that on the Progress there is no dependency on cement/soapstone tiles to seal the stove. There is very little cement overall in the Progress. Advantages for the hearthstone is the local dealer network for support. But that comes with a markup on the price of the stove. The Progress is a serious heater, and it absolutely will hold coals overnight. In my house, with mine, the room is always warm in the morning, even on the coldest Vermont nights this last winter. I’ve never been able to wake up to a 72 degree downstairs on a cold morning since I’ve lived here, until the Progress.

Thanks. I looked at Woodstock a while ago but didn't see any that are short enough to fit my fireplace opening. I'll take another look.

 

[stovelark]

With that height, that is the challenge. Finding a stove that rear vents and if needed, tucks inside partial or fully the fireplace opening, plus being a substantial heat output is not easy. While the Oslo may not be the stove you want, it or the VC may wind up being the best choices. The Encore being a top loader might be the best choice, partly in, partly out of fireplace opening.

 

[EbS-P]

Thanks. I looked at Woodstock a while ago but didn't see any that are short enough to fit my fireplace opening. I'll take another look.

I still think you ruled out inserts too quickly.

How tall is the chimney?

 

[DuaeGuttae]

The fireplace sits over a crawlspace. The fireplace itself is supported by concrete blocks down to a footer. I presume the hearth is as well but would need to check that.

The fireplace is in the center of the room with no adjacent walls. I could run electric up from the crawlspace but I owned an insert in a previous home and my wife hated hearing the blower, so I’ve ruled an insert out. Even with radiant heat a stove should be a huge improvement over my open fireplace.

Your fireplace and hearth are beautiful, and I think you're going to find it hard to find a stove that you actually want to put there given your space constraints. An insert definitely functions better with a blower. It's pretty much essential for a flush insert, but you might want to consider a non-flush insert that would be less reliant on the blower. @EbS-P has two fireplaces, one with a stove and one with an insert, so he can give you some real world experience with that.

I don't know how many non-flush inserts are still on the market these days. The one that comes most readily to mind for me is the Blaze King Princess Insert. It would have the advantage of having much of the firebox out of the fireplace. If you could run electric up from the crawlspace, you'd have the option of the blower if you wanted it to push the stove harder. We run ours on low on our freestanding Sirocco, and it's so quiet that we don't even notice it, but it might be different for an insert.

Your wife might not like the looks of the Princess Insert, though, so that might be a non-starter right there in addition to the electric/blower noise problem. I can say that the thermostatic control is really great in our well insulated house in Virginia, though, so it might be a good option in Maryland as well. It has a good-sized firebox for an insert, about 2.5 cubic feet, and it would easily burn overnight and longer on the wood you have. I think it's supposed to get 24 hour burns on its lowest setting, but that would shorten if you were pushing it on the coldest days.

Do reconsider inserts rather than settle for a stove that might not be what you really want. Inserts are built to fit in fireplaces, and it really can be the best solution at times, especially when the size of the opening constrains your choices.

 

[kgwindcl]

Your fireplace and hearth are beautiful, and I think you're going to find it hard to find a stove that you actually want to put there given your space constraints. An insert definitely functions better with a blower. It's pretty much essential for a flush insert, but you might want to consider a non-flush insert that would be less reliant on the blower. @EbS-P has two fireplaces, one with a stove and one with an insert, so he can give you some real world experience with that.

I don't know how many non-flush inserts are still on the market these days. The one that comes most readily to mind for me is the Blaze King Princess Insert. It would have the advantage of having much of the firebox out of the fireplace. If you could run electric up from the crawlspace, you'd have the option of the blower if you wanted it to push the stove harder. We run ours on low on our freestanding Sirocco, and it's so quiet that we don't even notice it, but it might be different for an insert.

Your wife might not like the looks of the Princess Insert, though, so that might be a non-starter right there in addition to the electric/blower noise problem. I can say that the thermostatic control is really great in our well insulated house in Virginia, though, so it might be a good option in Maryland as well. It has a good-sized firebox for an insert, about 2.5 cubic feet, and it would easily burn overnight and longer on the wood you have. I think it's supposed to get 24 hour burns on its lowest setting, but that would shorten if you were pushing it on the coldest days.

Do reconsider inserts rather than settle for a stove that might not be what you really want. Inserts are built to fit in fireplaces, and it really can be the best solution at times, especially when the size of the opening constrains your choices.

If I were to reconsider an insert, am I correct in assuming that there's no safe way to run electric through the existing firebox down to the crawlspace? The only safe/approved route would be across the hearth and then down, leaving the electric cord visible?

 

[DuaeGuttae]

If I were to reconsider an insert, am I correct in assuming that there's no safe way to run electric through the existing firebox down to the crawlspace? The only safe/approved route would be across the hearth and then down, leaving the electric cord visible?

I'm definitely not qualified to answer that question, so I'm going to ping some folks who are likely to know the answer. @begreen ? @bholler ? @EbS-P ?

 

[EbS-P]

If I were to reconsider an insert, am I correct in assuming that there's no safe way to run electric through the existing firebox down to the crawlspace? The only safe/approved route would be across the hearth and then down, leaving the electric cord visible?

Code says there must be a disconnect within some number of feet for the receptacle if it’s in the fireplace.

Personally I feel safe putting a surface mount box in the fireplace That is not switched, but it’s not code. I have power cords out for heating season and my thermometer/temp alarms. I don’t like it. It it’s not very obtrusive. Easily concealed during heating season and then tucked under/behind after the heating season.

I completely understand your aversion to an insert. I felt the same way. My F400 was a mistake. Small but a mistake. I should have gotten a blazeking Ashford insert. And I should i made that mistake twice. Second time was just a budget choice though and from a cost perspective my cheap Drolet insert was the right choice.

The blowers low don’t make much and only noticeable once the house is silent. This is where it will spend most of its time. Really I only have two burn rates. Low as possible and it’s really cold out! The latter doesn’t need high fan speed.

 

[bholler]

Ebs gave a perfect answer to the outlet question

 

[fao1989]

View attachment 347468 View attachment 347469

Beautiful hearth! If you are going to to do an extension anyway.....had you considered removing the raised ledge completely, and lowering the hearth floor over the subfloor? Maybe enough to achieve clearance over the subfloor with slate or stone. If you do that, you may clear enough headspace above to put in a proper stove with a 45 degree bend, vice an insert.