Regency CI2600 vs PE Neo 2.5

[Fightingbunny]

We are going to convert our fireplace to a wood burning insert this winter. I have narrowed down my options to the Regency CI2600 and the Pacific Energy Neo 2.5. I had originally decided on the Neo, but the fireplace installer I plan on going with has a special deal on the CI2600 that makes the CI2600 cheaper. So now I am trying to decide if I should pay more for the unit I originally wanted or switch to the cheaper one. I originally decided catalytic converter mechanics were too complicated and high maintenance on the CI2600 and I liked the simplicity of the neo. Both look okay, and I think the CI2600 actually is better looking.

Requirements: Flush mount, wood burning (no pellet), easy maintenance, novice friendly, safe, works okay with no blower.

The house is a two level traditional home and roughly 2400sf. The fireplace is on the main level on a side wall of the living room. The main level has been "opened up" a lot and air moves through the entire level very well. I notice this a lot when we move in/out of the house and the open door sucks out all the heat!

We have geo-thermal heating/cooling and we are not looking for the wood stove to heat the home. I just want extra heat on the main level as it seems cool in the winter and I love a fireplace! We originally were going to go with an open hearth fireplace and just make fires when the mood struck, but I worry about logs rolling out and I want to be able to set/forget about the fireplace. I had never heard of flush wood stoves and when a friend got one and I saw that it had GLASS!! and you could see fire, I was sold.

I expect to use the fireplace roughly once a week. We will probably use the blower on the lowest setting, but I worry about noise and want to be able to use the fireplace if we loose power.

Thank you for any words of wisdom that help in this decision!

 

[Fightingbunny]

In case it matters, dimensions:
Front opening: 33.5" wide, 29" high
Depth: 24"
The fireplace tapers, but I forgot to measure the back width

Estimate Details:

CI2600 Pro Series Wood Burning Stove Insert
1) Install a wood burning stove insert CI2600
2) Break/remove damper section
3) Install a 6 inch of 25 feet stainless steel liner
4) Secure liner with stove
5) Insulate liner with insulation wrap
6) Install new 2 speed blower
7) Use low profile faceplate
-Regular backing plate will be needed

$4,610.00

Pacific Energy Neo 2.5 Wood Insert
- Customer is responsible for getting wood stove and stove parts.

1) Install customers wood stove insert
2) Install a 6 inch of 25 feet stainless steel
3) Insulate liner with thermix insulation
4) Secure liner with stove
5) Seal top and bottom
6) Insulate damper section

$1,800.00

 

[begreen]

The liner estimates are not really equivalent. One lists an insulated liner and the other has poured in insulation. I think you want the insulated liner wrap. However, in PE estimate with the insulated liner I would still have them install an insulated damper area sealing plate if this is an exterior wall fireplace.

 

[Fightingbunny]

Would both estimates need updating to include an insulated damper area sealing plate? Is thermix insulation a poured in insulation?

 

[bholler]

Would both estimates need updating to include an insulated damper area sealing plate? Is thermix insulation a poured in insulation?

Yes you should have a plate installed regardless and yes thermix is pour in and it is not desirable for an insert.

 

[TedyOH]

Why would they quote 1 wrapped insulated liner and one pour insulated liner, makes no sense or am I missing something?
I have the Neo 1.6 in a 2500 sq ft 4 bedroom colonial, if I shut the 3 bedroom doors that are not being used I can get the rest of the house toasty in 5 hours or so....blowers running....not noisy but the blowers have a cheap rubber grommet with a plastic bushing in it that needs to be lubricated by removing the grommet and apply a small amount (I use a high heat Teflon based automotive caliper grease) lubricant, if you don't lubricate the blowers send vibrations throughout the insert and it will sound like beer cans rattling, took me 2 years and 2 new blowers to figure this out, since I lubricate once a season, no more issues.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Fightingbunny]

Thank you so much for the help!

I asked them about the liner and damper and it turns out to be a typing mistake and both estimates would be for an insulated liner and both include the insulated damper.

How difficult is a catalytic insert to use? If we don't manage it correctly, is it going to ruin the wood stove and cost us a lot? Can we not use the catalytic converter thing and just skip that?

 

[bholler]

Thank you so much for the help!

I asked them about the liner and damper and it turns out to be a typing mistake and both estimates would be for an insulated liner and both include the insulated damper.

How difficult is a catalytic insert to use? If we don't manage it correctly, is it going to ruin the wood stove and cost us a lot? Can we not use the catalytic converter thing and just skip that?

It is not hard to use at all just watch the temperature and close the bypass when the cat becomes active. And turn the air down to at most 1/2 way in steps. Really the only difference in operation is the bypass. Maintenance is a little more complicated and you will have to replace the cat periodically.

 

[Fightingbunny]

Can you run the CI2600 without the blower on?

 

[bholler]

Can you run the CI2600 without the blower on?

Yes you can run any insert without the blower on. But some do not heat very well without the blower

 

[Fightingbunny]

How important is it to have an insulated liner? I got another estimate today for work and this guy said I do not need an insulated liner unless I wanted one. The fireplace is between my living room and garage, so the first floor has enclosed, but not climate controled space on the other side and the top has outside air because my house stops before the garage.

 

[Squisher]

A insulated liner is a big step up in both performance and safety. If your existing masonry chimney is up to code with proper clearances and the flue is in good shape it may not need a insulated liner. But if these things aren't or can't be confirmed(clearances can be hard if not impossible to confirm through certain parts of the construction) then you do require a insulated liner. Irregardless a insulated liner is worth it for the increased performance(better draft, cleaner chimney) not to mention the increased safety. Insulated liner is the proper way IMO.

So this fellow that said you did not need a insulated liner. Did he confirm clearances? Did he confirm the integrity and construction of the existing flue/chimney? If not. Well he really shouldn't be saying that you don't need a insulated liner unless you want one. Because if clearances aren't there or the flue is degraded(cracked tiles, missing mortar) or constructed improperly than you in fact do need a insulated liner.