Regency i2500 - Bypass Rod Length

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

thomas_H

New Member
Jul 13, 2022
7
Vermont
My bypass is sometimes hard to close and I noticed the rod looks a little bent inside the stove. Also, I don't seem to get temperatures as hot as others have mentioned and I suspect the Cat isn't fully engaged. My operating temps on completely open air control Range between (500F - 800F) when fully loaded. I burn hardwood with MC less than 20% (avg 12%).

Anyways, can someone measure and post the length of the bypass rod is when it is in the closed position, please? The measurement I obtained was 2.25" (see photo for details).

IMG_2334.jpg
 
I get 2 1/8 standout when it's full closed.

With perfect wood on a very cold (read: high draft) day I can touch 1400 with bypass closed and air wide open, 975-1100 is more typical. Contrary to the pure cat stove folks, cruising on this hybrid seems to be when the cat pobe is 725-900 range (I'm typically running at 50% air unless I'm out of the house or its a very warm day)

At least that's what I've noticed after a season with it, YMMV.
 
I get 2 1/8 standout when it's full closed.

With perfect wood on a very cold (read: high draft) day I can touch 1400 with bypass closed and air wide open, 975-1100 is more typical. Contrary to the pure cat stove folks, cruising on this hybrid seems to be when the cat pobe is 725-900 range (I'm typically running at 50% air unless I'm out of the house or its a very warm day)

At least that's what I've noticed after a season with it, YMMV.
Thank you for your reply.

I am not hitting those temps. I am going to take it apart and sweep. I suspect there’s creosote build up near the temp sensor. I am also going to check to see if the cat installed right.
 
  • Like
Reactions: abner480
One recommendation from my dealer was that if it ever felt like I was getting buildup on the cat sled and/or I expected the cat was just starting to clog, to run with the bypass rod halfway in for 1-2 hours. They said sometimes that can burn off any excess crud.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thomas_H
One recommendation from my dealer was that if it ever felt like I was getting buildup on the cat sled and/or I expected the cat was just starting to clog, to run with the bypass rod halfway in for 1-2 hours. They said sometimes that can burn off any excess cru
 
I’ve done that a few times. It’s odd, sometimes the fire goes really good on low hitting good temps (700F) and other times it just chokes itself out (<500F). I feel the Cat isn’t lighting off like it’s suppose to despite me following directions. Can a cat be bad right out of factory?
 
I am having similar issues. I engage the cat at 500 it goes up to mid 700s, once I close down the damper the probe temp drops. I close the damper in steps.. The only time I've had temps above 1000 is when I forgot to close the damper and it ran full open for about an hour. If I check my probe right now I would suspect that it would be under 500. I do notice the probe temp rise as the cat is first engaged, so I know it is doing something.
 
I am having similar issues. I engage the cat at 500 it goes up to mid 700s, once I close down the damper the probe temp drops. I close the damper in steps.. The only time I've had temps above 1000 is when I forgot to close the damper and it ran full open for about an hour. If I check my probe right now I would suspect that it would be under 500. I do notice the probe temp rise as the cat is first engaged, so I know it is doing something.
I don't understand what you are saying. You engage the cat? Do you mean you CLOSE the damper? If so, why do you then say you then close the damper? Do you mean the draft control?
When I close the damper, I also close the draft control and I see my temps go UP at that point.
 
I don't understand what you are saying. You engage the cat? Do you mean you CLOSE the damper? If so, why do you then say you then close the damper? Do you mean the draft control?
When I close the damper, I also close the draft control and I see my temps go UP at that point.
Seconded.

For terminology, my understanding is:

1) Air control
Fully Pulled Left is max (high temp /fast burn )
Fully Pushed Right is min (low tem/ slow burn)
And everything in between is incremental settings

2) Bypass / Damper
Pulled back is bypass open / cat off (Disengaged)
Pushed forward bypass closed / Cat on (Engaged)
 
  • Like
Reactions: garth_2022
Yes. I closed the Bypass Damper. In actuality on the I2500 there is no 'Damper' you are sliding the entire Cat Assembly forward to cover the Vent so the gases must go through the Cat. I then close down the Draft Control in Steps. Sorry for the terminolgy mix-up
 
This other thread user had similar issue and it was determine to be faulty probe.

 
Here is a clip. Probe Temp recording below 500 F. IR Thermometer says inside of Insert is over 700 F. I would not expect a 220 F difference.
 

Attachments

  • EXDQ5703[1].MOV
    6.9 MB
This other thread user had similar issue and it was determine to be faulty probe.

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, it’s not the probe, it’s def a cat engagement problem. I’ve hit the fi
Here is a clip. Probe Temp recording below 500 F. IR Thermometer says inside of Insert is over 700 F. I would not expect a 220 F difference.

Thank you Garbanzo for the suggestion. Unfortunately, I wish it was that simple of a cause. My probe temp and IR gun are at parity. I know it’s a problem with the Catalyst engaging, whether operator error, expectational misalignment , or defective part(s).

Thomas
 
Went down after fire died down a bit. Stirred up the coals. Probe Temp reads 299, Glass temp read 400, Inside (with door open, brick is reading 800. Think my probe is bad.