register plate behind resolute

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Sheshe

New Member
Oct 13, 2016
14
Cape Cod
Hi Everyone,

So I attached a pic of my rebuilt res III. Im so happy with the way she came out. As you can see in the pic, she is in the fireplace, there is a stainless steel flue liner going up the chimney, Although not in this pic, I attached an elbow going from the stove flue collar to the flue liner, I can attach another piece of pipe between flue collar and elbow to pull the stove about anther 3 inches into the room. Then I will have enough room to put a register plate vertically right behind the stove, instead of putting it on the horizontal up in the chimney where the chimney damper used to be???. So my question is,.. Is that ok to do it that way, does it matter? I was hoping I didn't need to do this but all the heat is going right up the chimney. Cant get the cottage above 58 without turning the gas heat on. Appreciate your thoughts. Thank you Sheshe
 

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Hi Everyone,

So I attached a pic of my rebuilt res III. Im so happy with the way she came out. As you can see in the pic, she is in the fireplace, there is a stainless steel flue liner going up the chimney, Although not in this pic, I attached an elbow going from the stove flue collar to the flue liner, I can attach another piece of pipe between flue collar and elbow to pull the stove about anther 3 inches into the room. Then I will have enough room to put a register plate vertically right behind the stove, instead of putting it on the horizontal up in the chimney where the chimney damper used to be???. So my question is,.. Is that ok to do it that way, does it matter? I was hoping I didn't need to do this but all the heat is going right up the chimney. Cant get the cottage above 58 without turning the gas heat on. Appreciate your thoughts. Thank you Sheshe

You need to keep heat from going up the masonry flue, right? That's not too different from how I installed my Resolute 37 years ago, though the stove sits fully within the confines of the fireplace. The fireplace (house built 1938) had a crank open damper; I removed the damper plate. That left the cast steel damper throat. Had a metal shop cut a piece of 3/16" steel slightly larger than the throat dimensions, with a 6" hole in the middle. With two eyebolts installed in the plate and two more in the throat, I could use a little turnbuckle and a bit of refractory cement on the edges to cinch down the plate. Hasn't been touched since....

By doing this, one can retrofit the damper if the stove is to be removed. Concurrently with the stove purchase, I bought a little "muffin" fan from VC to move air around behind the stove and get it into the room. It's still going strong after almost 37 years of constant use.

Cheers