Removing frozen bolts on Vermont Castings Resolute- RESOLVED

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Easy Livin’ 3000

Minister of Fire
Dec 23, 2015
3,018
SEPA
Just trying to re-gasket the top piece, where the stove pipe goes.

4 bolts, two with nuts, got them out, no problem. Other two are tapped into the cast iron. Frozen solid.

Soaking it with kroil (like pb blaster). Will try again in a few days.

Two questions:

First, is it a bad idea to use the impact driver on them (1/4" rechargable)?

Second, if I try applying heat, will a propane torch get it hot enough to make a difference?

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I work on a lot of equipment used on the beach. Think lots of frozen hardware. I have found that I break way less bolts using the impact. I like to go with light taps then get into the throttle more. As far as the heat. My personal option is any heat is better than no heat. Just remember heat the casting not the bolt. That’s my 2 cents
 
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Impact will help, make sure you have a good tight socket on it. Atf and acetone mixed 50/50 is a great penetrating oil. Propane Torch heat will help but it will take a while to get it hot. If it doesnt loosen after a few blasts from the impact try turning it the other way. You have to break up the rusty bonds. Another option besides goin full acetalyne torch is an oxy mapp set. Much cheaper and i believe they get pretty hot.
 
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Impact will help, make sure you have a good tight socket on it. Atf and acetone mixed 50/50 is a great penetrating oil. Propane Torch heat will help but it will take a while to get it hot. If it doesnt loosen after a few blasts from the impact try turning it the other way. You have to break up the rusty bonds. Another option besides goin full acetalyne torch is an oxy mapp set. Much cheaper and i believe they get pretty hot.
The bolt head takes a small hex wrench! Probably to protect the small cast iron ear that it's tapped into. I'm pretty sure I could break it right off with a standard 1/2" ratchet.

Good reminder to go both ways with the impact.

I've read a little about the mapp gas. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
If you strip the hex out you can bang a torx in it. Has saved me many times.
I'm hoping to neither strip the head, nor break the cast iron ears. But I do appreciate the tip. I really don't want to drill out a stripped head.
 
Just an update-

Let almost a week go by, the went down to the folks with my new cordless HF impact driver.

Dad said he'd been giving the bolts a shot of kroil (pb blaster substitute) from time to time.

Hit the bolts with the impact driver, they came right out. I was thrilled. No heat necessary.

Now on to the re-gasketing. Should have that all done today, and the Folks will be back in glorious wood heat this week.

Feeling good!

And, thanks for everyone's advice.
 
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Thanks for the feedback. Your Dad and time was the key. Penetrating fluids require time to do their thing and most mechanics try to substitute volume of fluid for time.
 
Heh, heh! Credit those Harbor Freight tools!
I actually really like the place. I use most tools infrequently enough that the HF stuff generally gets me where I need to go. From time to time, yes, you'll run into a real stinker. Recent examples were the small yellow DC air compressor, and low profile tubing cutter, both failed almost immediately. But those have been pretty rare for me.

More and more, you can tell hd, Lowes and local hardware stores like ace and true value are sourced from the same far away land, anyway.
 
Just an update-

. . . Dad said he'd been giving the bolts a shot of kroil (pb blaster substitute) from time to time.

Hit the bolts with the impact driver, they came right out. I was thrilled. No heat necessary. . . .

Kroil is good stuff. As people have mentioned, you need to give it time to work. Also, I have found, the hard way, that slow and gentle gets better results than whaling away at things.