Replaced door gasket, but still seems loose

[illini81]

Not all non-cats are exactly the same but on most of them, including the NC30 and my old hearthstone heritage, the single air control you can operate determines only the amount of air sent to the airwash at the top of the door. That relatively cold airwash air washes down the glass and into the actual belly of the fire to support primary combustion. At the bottom of the loading door is a hole that pops out of a little bump called the doghouse, that hole shoots unregulated full throttle air into the fire as well so is supports primary combustion.

The secondary air system is almost always unregulated full throttle air into those tubes on the top of the firebox. This air gets really hot before emerging and when it does, the air supports secondary combustion of the superhot smoke that didn't get consumed by the primary fire.

There are often several holes in the outer stove body that allow air into the stove. My NC30 has four. On all stoves, except the PE as far as I know, the primary air control lever only partially closes the air wash.

Sound good folks?

Funny things happen inside of a non-cat since they burn cleanly by burning very hot and in the presence of an abundance of oxygen. Closing the primary air control just means that the secondary air system will flow more to satisfy the vacuum.

Thanks. That makes sense. I went back and looked at the manual for my Enviro Boston 1700. There is a picture in the manual (attached) of the air flow path. Is the "Pilot air through twin injection ports" the doghouse air? I have looked at this image several times, but never noticed the pilot air before. Just saw the primary and secondary air. If the pilot air is the doghouse air, it looks like the slider plate does control both the doghouse air and primary air for this stove, if I'm interpreting the image correctly.

Thanks again for the explanation. Yooper, sorry for derailing your thread. I can make a different thread for my doghouse air questions, if necessary.

 

[madison]

There isn’t an adjustment mechanism for the latch unfortunately.
......

Is there some way to fix it without creating a gap elsewhere around the door? Something like very thin sheet metal applied with some furnace cement?

I would think that there must be a way to adjust the door .. I am not familiar with your stove but would suggest considering:

1. If the door is hinged on pins - you could consider carefully adjusting the pins (mallet, screw driver or some other tool) to adjust the door fit OR similarly the door hinge where the pins insert could be adjusted ?

2. Similarly the latching mechanism could be adjusted by very carefully bending the latch catch on the stove body.

Closeup images could help us with a strategy

 

[Highbeam]

Thanks. That makes sense. I went back and looked at the manual for my Enviro Boston 1700. There is a picture in the manual (attached) of the air flow path. Is the "Pilot air through twin injection ports" the doghouse air? I have looked at this image several times, but never noticed the pilot air before. Just saw the primary and secondary air. If the pilot air is the doghouse air, it looks like the slider plate does control both the doghouse air and primary air for this stove, if I'm interpreting the image correctly.

Thanks again for the explanation. Yooper, sorry for derailing your thread. I can make a different thread for my doghouse air questions, if necessary.

Hard to say as that schematic doesn't really allow you to conclude whether or not the pilot air feed is before or after the primary slider. More importantly is it doesn't really matter. No primary air control on any non-cat allows to completely shut the air off so the pilot holes will always be flowing air.

If the pilot air bothers you, many folks have blocked the ports. Usually in high draft conditions.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

I used newspaper but there’s little tension compared to the other three sides where I can’t even pull it out. I wouldn’t say it comes out freely but it’s definitely easy to pull.

Burn times seem ok but feel they could be longer. Had the same complaint last year that I felt like I should be getting slightly longer burns (was hard to get to 8 hours) and this was one of the things that was IDed. I have control over the fire, that’s never been an issue, so I don’t think a whole lot of air is leaking in. What would be some good signs of air leakage at the top?

Does the glass get dirty in the area of suspected leakage?