Replacing current insert with freestanding stove

[mathewc]

Hey all,

Thanks in advance for the help. I have no idea what I'm doing, but drew some pictures and listed my questions at the bottom to try and make it easier.

I currently have an insert that has a loud fan and is not efficient. I have acquired a free standing stove with a secondary burn chamber that I'd like to install in it's place.

Here's my current setup:

Stainless steel flue liner screwed directly into the top of the insert. Original flue plate was removed and some level of insulation was installed, but I'm afraid I don't remember how, or what was put in it's place. Metal plate covers the rest of the fireplace opening. This was done by a licensed professional, to code.



The model of the freestanding stove is: Warnock Hersey 24-IC. Sorry I don't have a better pic of it. It's getting sanded and painted.


Here's what I envision:



Here's the back of the stove and plate cover.

1. In the first diagram. Number 1 is how I imagine I'll attach the pipe. I believe this is the correct way to do this with a T fitting, as per shown in this thread: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/rear-vent-wood-stove-through-masonry-fireplace.110725/ Is this so you can open the bottom and easily clean the flue liner? Should it just be an elbow joint instead?
2. Number 2 in the first diagram is just to illustrate that I'm putting the stove next to brick.
3. Number 3 will be a hearth pad that is at least 8 inches on the sides and 18 inches in front for the door. The stove is pretty big and I could not find a commercial one that will be the right size so I think I'll be building my own. Any advice here would be great. I'd rather buy one, but if it's $600+ like I've been seeing online I think I'll build.
4. Number 4 is just to illustrate there is carpet here. I may remove it based on advice here, but I think as long as I keep the R rating at least 1.5x what it should be and I make sure the hearth is bigger than what is required for code I will be okay.
5. I'm not sure what to do about the area for Number 5. Should I make a new plate to block this area off or just leave it like it is in the illustration?
6. The next illustration is because I'm really not sure how to properly insulate and block off the bottom of the chimney once I get the old stove out. Can I put non-combustible insulation and board there with a hole in it for the pipe? Should I replace the cap at the top of the chimney with one of those chains that allows you to pull it completely shut?
7. I posted pictures of the 8 inch hole in the stove as well as the plate because I'm not sure how pipe attaches to it. A link to what adapter or plate I should get would be great.

Thank you for reading and all the help!

 

[begreen]

That would be an Englander 24-IC. Warnock-Hersey is the testing lab.

 

[mathewc]

I pulled the old stove out and found the liner to be 8", so that's good. Any particular kind of stove pipe I should look at?

What are the chances that the chimney is sealed at the top? Still not sure how to seal the bottom if needed. The liner pipe is just hanging out in the open.

 

[begreen]

The liner will need a stainless tee with a liner clamping band. Then connect with a short length of stovepipe. Keep the horiz. run as short a possible and sloped uphill toward the liner.