Researching for our first wood burning insert.

[bigealta]

Goodness. I thought the treatment I received was bad enough, but here is someone else asking a reasonably straightforward request for advice and being bombarded with unsolicited admonishment for not using dry wood.

Why have a sticky about dry wood, if these threads don’t stay on topic?

It's because everyone here wastes tons of time trying to diagnose "bad stove" burning issues all winter, every year. It's a huge time and effort suck when 95% of the problems turn out to be not dry enough wood.

It's like finding a murderer, 90% of the time it's someone known to the victim.

 

[Ultrarunner]

Ok, so with all things considered, I went with the Regency i2500. Installation in 3 weeks. It should suit our needs fine. With the exception of some shingles and partially enclosing the front of my shed with a door from that barn we bought, the shed is done and mostly stacked. Once installed, I'll disassemble the existing mantel and do the layout and setback for my beam mantle and supports. I'm still undecided if I'll float the mantel or use additional barn beam material to picture-frame it. Combustible side-setback will determine that component. Steady as she goes....

 

[Ashful]

Nice! Now the real fun begins…

 

[kborndale]

Congrats! Amazing that you were able to get it installed so quickly right now!

 

[Ultrarunner]

Congrats! Amazing that you were able to get it installed so quickly right now!

I inked the contract 3-4 weeks ago, so the company will make the 7 week lead time they advertised.

 

[Ultrarunner]

So, I did some layout tonight and as luck would have it my existing brick masonry backing allows me to meet all the combustible setbacks. Sides are the least restrictive, at 12 inches and my 6.5 inch (depth) structural barn beam mantel the most restrictive, at about 20 inches setback. So the layout works nicely and I can set the top of the new mantel at the same height as existing and meet the code.

 

[Ultrarunner]

Here is my 'rough' layout. The blue tape just outside the outboard mortises is where I'll cut the beam to length. To finish the ends, and to avoid displaying the fresh cuts, my plan is to cut the tenons off with an extra inch or so, and attach those to each cut end. The tenons might add a unique detail and will look much nicer than just a bare end-cut. I had enough other 'beam material' in a slightly smaller dimension, that I was able to cut in half and have the height I needed for the 'supports'. I'll mortice out the underside of the mantel beam just slightly so the supports sit recessed, and I can get the exact height I want. I will structurally mount the mantel to the framing studs using HD angled brackets.

 

[Ashful]

Rather falsely than re-attaching the tenons, why not just hand-cut new tenons at the desired length? You could weather it to blend, or use one of a few methods (amonia, alkali) to age it, so the new cuts don't stand out. I'm no expert, I'm talking of things I've seen and not done myself. But I suspect that long-term, this may age better (pardon the pun) than a cut and glued method.

 

[Ultrarunner]

Ok, it’s a wrap. I finished up my mantle, and with the exception of the installer bringing the next size up surround , it’s ready to go.

 

[begreen]

That looks awesome. It finished out beautifully. We'll need a beauty pic with the fire burning once the larger surround has been installed.