Rust on the axe?

[neverbilly]

I am thinking of a Fiskars x27 but I guess it could pertain to other axes.

We burn a fire in the firepit probably four nights/week in the winter. The x27 gets left at the chopping block close to my firepit overnight sometimes. It's got rust on it from dew or a surprise rain and I am wondering about removing it with steel wool or something. Then treat it with some type of oil? Or do you think just don't worry about it! I wonder if it splits better if it's 'slick?' They even make silicone spray.

Do you allow yours to rust or is that blasphemy?

 

[Gotrek]

I oil all my outside tools when I'm done with them. Surface rust will wipe off when you oil it. If it doesn't and only steel wool removes it then its too late. Means the factory finish is compromised and more brushing with steel wool will remove the finish more and more and your problem will get worse and worse.

 

[Chimney Smoke]

Rusty tools just mean they aren't used enough

Just kidding - if it's just left out occasionally on accident the surface rust should wipe right off. Maybe spray with a water displacement compound like WD40 to prevent it?

 

[Montanalocal]

Linseed oil on both wood and steel works great. The best is the raw linseed oil from Viking sales at www.solventfreepaint.com

 

[Jazzberry]

I use Johnsons paste floor wax on my table saw.

 

[StihlKicking]

I use a wire brush on a cordless drill to slick mine up. Then wipe it with wd40.


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[CentralVAWoodHeat]

WD40 will not prevent rust. It is a water displacement product which removes water, and lubricant so that the now clean surface can then be relubricated. Use some light steel wool with some 3 in 1 oil to remove the rust, wipe off the bit and then give another light coating of 3 in 1 oil.

Be careful though! Watch yourself while scrubbing the bit to ensure you don't slip and cut yourself.

 

[Tar12]

WD-40 300035 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor or Corrosion-X they both work very well for preventing long term.

 

[bholler]

I use Johnsons paste floor wax on my table saw.

If you are using it for any trim work you should not use wax on the top it will cause fish eye in your finish

 

[Jazzberry]

Never had a problem in many years of using it. Finish side is always up on a table saw anyways and oil or any other rust preventitive can contaminate your finish. But ya you can screw up a piece of railroad track if your stupid.

 

[jetsam]

On rusty bladed stuff, I use a wire wheel/cup first, wire brush if needed, and then a can of regular old rustoleum spraypaint. Has worked for mauls and axes and hatchets for as long as I've been using them.

 

[bholler]

anyways and oil or any other rust preventitive can contaminate your finish.

Absolutely that is why nothing but slip-it touches any of my table tops. When I was doing cabinet making professionally we had a new guy that waxed the table on one of our saws a week later I cut up a bunch of anigre. I machined it all into doors and when I went to finish it there was fish eye everywhere. It ended up costing us close to $6000. Saying finish side up only works if there is only one finish side. There are products made specifiically for lubing and protecting wood working equipment there is no reason to take the risk.

 

[sportbikerider78]

WD40 will not prevent rust. It is a water displacement product which removes water, and lubricant so that the now clean surface can then be relubricated. Use some light steel wool with some 3 in 1 oil to remove the rust, wipe off the bit and then give another light coating of 3 in 1 oil.

Be careful though! Watch yourself while scrubbing the bit to ensure you don't slip and cut yourself.

This is not true. I have used it for years to keep rust off power equipment. I soak my atv's, dirt bikes, power equipment in the stuff. Works well.

 

[jetsam]

I think WD40 is light machine oil dissolved in kerosene. It is marketed as a lubricant which is kind of rude of them, as it dissolves grease and leaves behind a thin film of light oil. (This is a great way to ruin a bearing or anything that needs to be greased, or a lock.)

Good stuff for a variety of uses, though. I use if for rustproofing sometimes too (but a coat of paint lasts longer).

 

[bholler]

The wd in wd40 stands for water displacement by displacing the water it prevents rust. It is not a good lubricant though.

 

[Jazzberry]

Absolutely that is why nothing but slip-it touches any of my table tops. When I was doing cabinet making professionally we had a new guy that waxed the table on one of our saws a week later I cut up a bunch of anigre. I machined it all into doors and when I went to finish it there was fish eye everywhere. It ended up costing us close to $6000. Saying finish side up only works if there is only one finish side. There are products made specifiically for lubing and protecting wood working equipment there is no reason to take the risk.

Wax has been used in cabinet shops as standard practice forever. Not just for rust but to help material glide smoothly and preventing drag. New stuff may be out there but its not for everyone. Of course they buff the excess wax off prior to using.

 

[bholler]

Wax has been used in cabinet shops as standard practice forever. Not just for rust but to help material glide smoothly and preventing drag. New stuff may be out there but its not for everyone. Of course they buff the excess wax off prior to using.

And I worked in 4 different cabinet shops and none allowed any wax or oil on any of their equipment. And slip it has been around for over 60 years. There are also many other products i just prefer that one. And yes if you buff off all of the wax it wont cause a problem. But if you miss some it can be a big issue. So why take the chance. It alsodepends on the finish you are using. We always used and i still use laquer. If you are just useing poly it wont matter as much

 

[bboulier]

I am thinking of a Fiskars x27 but I guess it could pertain to other axes.

We burn a fire in the firepit probably four nights/week in the winter. The x27 gets left at the chopping block close to my firepit overnight sometimes. It's got rust on it from dew or a surprise rain and I am wondering about removing it with steel wool or something. Then treat it with some type of oil? Or do you think just don't worry about it! I wonder if it splits better if it's 'slick?' They even make silicone spray.

Do you allow yours to rust or is that blasphemy?

I always use a silicon spray after using my Fiskar's axes. Never had any problems with rust.