Correction: That was the Vodka talking. They are all full chisel.
Sharpening A Full Chisle Chain
- Thread starter Ralphie Boy
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Correction: That was the Vodka talking. They are all full chisel.
??? I thought LGX was full-chisel.
(broken link removed to http://www.amickssuperstore.com/Oregon_72LGX072G_Chain_p/oregon%2072lgx072g.htm)
Oregon 3/8 (.375) pitch models offered at Baileys: http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catID=11748
(broken link removed to http://www.amickssuperstore.com/Oregon_72LGX072G_Chain_p/oregon%2072lgx072g.htm)
Oregon 3/8 (.375) pitch models offered at Baileys: http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catID=11748
Easiest thing to do is walk into a Stihl/Husky dealer and buy one (relatively inexpensive) sharpening kit for each pitch of chain you work with.
![[Hearth.com] Sharpening A Full Chisle Chain](/talk/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hisltd.co.uk%2Fimages%2FStihlFillingKit-medium.jpg&hash=0b4e7e997320d3a8ab1ff61056a51d83 "[Hearth.com] Sharpening A Full Chisle Chain")
+1
That's what I use most of the time.
One of each in my saw bag: 3/8, .325, and 3/8LP.
(I want a saw that can justify .404
)
HDRock
Minister of Fire
OK found this
Selecting Professional Saw Chain
IMPORTANT INFORMATION - WARNING
All saw chain listed below is very aggressive and has a high kickback rating. This chain should only be used by experienced chain saw professionals with knowledge, experience, and specialized training for dealing with kickback. None of it is ANSI approved on saws less than 3.8 cubic inches (62cc).
Chains and bars designed to minimize kickback potential are available. These meet the ANSI standard and should be used on saws with motors less than 3.8 cubic inches (62cc) or on any saw that is consumer directed (non-professional use). Please call for more information.
On the chart below, the columns listing best motor size and best bar length are suggestions only. Certain applications and uses may call for another size or type. Please call if you have any questions. Professional saw chain is our business. We can help.
![[Hearth.com] Sharpening A Full Chisle Chain](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/83/83705-8840374046500339e275fa10f2eea3cb.jpg?hash=zOJL-TY-dF "[Hearth.com] Sharpening A Full Chisle Chain")
That looks like an old chart. No LGX in it.
You're making this too complicated. If you want full-chisel chain for a 3/8 pitch saw, just get Oregon LGX or Stihl RS (formerly RSC). Match pitch, gauge, and number of drive links for your bar. Done.
I've used different makes of saw chain over the years, but I've pretty much moved to Stihl RS (RSC). Yes, I use Stihl chain on all brands of saw, even Husqvarna (gasp!).
If you're still unsure, then get to your Stihl or Husqvarna dealer. Take your saw or just your bar with you. You may even get a better deal than online. Like buy one, get one half price. Or buy two and get the third free.
You're making this too complicated. If you want full-chisel chain for a 3/8 pitch saw, just get Oregon LGX or Stihl RS (formerly RSC). Match pitch, gauge, and number of drive links for your bar. Done.
I've used different makes of saw chain over the years, but I've pretty much moved to Stihl RS (RSC). Yes, I use Stihl chain on all brands of saw, even Husqvarna (gasp!).
If you're still unsure, then get to your Stihl or Husqvarna dealer. Take your saw or just your bar with you. You may even get a better deal than online. Like buy one, get one half price. Or buy two and get the third free.
Vice versa (RSC is current AFAIK)
It changed AGAIN this past year. They dropped the "C" from their chain models and are back to RS, RM, etc.
Have a look: http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/
Yep, no more RSC only RS. Got confuddled the last time I bought a loop. I insisted that I wanted the RSC.
This is exactly what I use. Pretty simple to use.Easiest thing to do is walk into a Stihl/Husky dealer and buy one (relatively inexpensive) sharpening kit for each pitch of chain you work with.
Yes, correction made above. I do not use much Oregon chain. Soft cutters in my experience. I use mainly Carlton and Stihl.
Any one notice a difference between the Oregon files size 7/32" & the stihl 13/64".
OK to use the 7/32 on (3/8 X.050) Stihl RS & Oregon LGX ?
Or is there that much (noticeable) of a difference using 1/64 smaller diameter on the Stihl chain?
OK to use the 7/32 on (3/8 X.050) Stihl RS & Oregon LGX ?
Or is there that much (noticeable) of a difference using 1/64 smaller diameter on the Stihl chain?
I don't think there would be much difference as long as you stayed with one size. The smaller file will give more "hook" to the cutter edge. (which will probably dull a bit faster, but may (MAY) cut slightly faster.)
Not really that much of a difference. You get a slightly larger angle at the top of the cutters using 7/32 files but I cannot say that I have noticed any big difference (I have used them both). The odd size Stihl files threw me for a while, but they are trying to average out the taper in the cutters for the life of the loop. A Stihl dealer showed me his trick some years ago to start with a 7/32 file when a Stihl loop is new, and then change over to a 3/16 file when they are half gone. They are a lot easier to find than 13/64 files, and I think that the angles they produce in the cutters are actually better that way. I added filing with 13/64 in the center of the cutter life as I have boxes of files that a guy that I ship saws to overseas sent me a few years ago. I may as well use them...
HDRock
Minister of Fire
Do you vets use a semi chisel chain for wood that's already on the ground , or just sharpen full chisel more often ?
As a rule, I use full chisel for everything. On the ground is not a problem, but dragged/skidded logs with dirt & mud on them are another story. Even so, I rarely switch to semi-chisel these days. I take at least 4 sharp chains with me into the woods if I'm cutting all day. I also take a stump vise and filing kit with me, too.
I mostly cut standing trees, treetops from timber harvests, and blowdowns. These aren't very dirty around here. In other places where the wind kicks up dirt, dust, and sand that gets trapped in the bark, I'd probably use semi-chisel more often.
I mostly cut standing trees, treetops from timber harvests, and blowdowns. These aren't very dirty around here. In other places where the wind kicks up dirt, dust, and sand that gets trapped in the bark, I'd probably use semi-chisel more often.
Full chisel for most everything (skip on 24" & longer bars).Most all the stuff I'm cutting is fairly clean,even the old petrified dead Red/White Oak that was on the ground for years.I rarely skid any logs,only a short distance when I cant get any closer with garden tractor or pickup.I touch up the chain 2-3 strokes every tankful,sometimes a bit sooner if the wood is extra tough.
I keep 3-4 old semi-chisel & safety chains hanging on inside wall of shed for any yardbirds,stumps,fencerow stuff or salvaging anything else that might contain some wire/nails etc.
No sense ruining a new or freshly sharpened chain on that junk.Plus my ripping chains are skip tooth,ground at 10 degrees at local shop.
I don't have a loop of semi anymore so I'm just swapping out loops of chisel more often. Gotta fix that, I really liked yellow label RM.
HDRock
Minister of Fire
What do ya do if U don't have or forgot to bring a stump vise , just butt saw against something
?
What do ya do if U don't have or forgot to bring a stump vise , just butt saw against something
(1) Have an extra chain or 2 & swap out if you hit something or it gets dull.
Don't need a vise to hold the saw, it makes it nice but not needed.
(2) I sharpen mostly without a vise in the shop, (may need to try this vise idea
).Usually, if the chain is dull, I have a load & it's time to go home
I try to not hit the ground & no problem cutting a cord+ without sharpening.
You'll know when the chain is dull after cutting with a full chisel for a bit.
Chip size, sound, feel, rpm & 10 seconds to make a 3 second cut
I avoid sharpening in the field if at all possible. Faster to swap chains. If you have to, and you don't have a stump vise (mine rides in the case with the saw), then you can clamp the bar in between your feet and work on it like that.What do ya do if U don't have or forgot to bring a stump vise , just butt saw against something
As others have stated, you just need to immobilize the saw in whatever way works for you. Stump vise is inexpensive and small enough to justify sticking one in your saw bag or case. Mine is in my saw bag with sharpening kits as a last resort if all my chains become dull before calling it a day.
\You can cut your own stump vise, too:
\You can cut your own stump vise, too:
I use RM semi more than I use full chisel on my larger saws. I cut slash piles for firewood and not so clean downed wood. That stuff is murder on full chisel loops. Clean wood, full chisel. The rest, semi, as it stays sharp in crud a lot longer. Also all my low profile picco chain for the 211 is Carlton semi chisel.
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