Sharpening

[walhondingnashua]

The topic of sharpening has come up on another thread I started so I thought I would start a new one specifically about it because I have a few questions.
First, what is the best sharpening method you have tried? Shop price has gone up to $8 a chain here and I just can’t do that. I hand sharpen with an Oregon depth and angle gauge. I’ve borrowed a cheap bench grinder which wasn’t bad but the clamping mechanism wasn’t consistent. I am now using a set up on my dremel which works ok. What are others using? Pros and cons?
Second, I have read good things about the 2-1 sharpeners and am very interested. But I have two different saws so do I need one for each saw or can I change the files?
Last, does everyone file their rakers every time they sharpen. I have only been doing it when I really work the chains. Not when touching up in the field. Should I be.
I’m just building my knowledge base here.

 

[DuaeGuttae]

I bought my husband the 2-in-1 sharpener for Christmas, and it works great. I sharpen his chains for him, and the results seem better than our previous experiences with in-store sharpening. We got frustrated with that.

I’m not knowledgeable enough to compare other home methods, and our two saws use the same file size so we didn’t need to worry about separate sharpening. I just thought I’d say that we are delighted with the 2-in-1.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

The 2in1 wins hands down.
You could change files I guess .. I would just get one for each saw.
With the 2in1 the rakers get touched up each time.. I'm guessing the chain with dwindle uniformly ..

 

[blades]

2-1 sized to fit chain : pico, micro,325,3/8,404. in each of these there are some variations in the tooth configuration so a slight change in file dia is sometimes needed. Depth gauges ( rakers as some call them ) check each time - if less than .020 below cutting edge needs attention. On most chains more than .030 is too much, gets too grabby and the smaller engine saws will bog.
I get $6/chain for cleaning and sharpening- but due to everything else in our lives increasing in cost loops for bars over 24" are $8 . Anything over 42" is $35/hr in 1/4hr increments ( I get 8ft, .404 beam saw loops in a few times a year.) repairs to the longer loops are a time and material charge plus the sharpening. The common sizes up to 24" are not particularly worth the effort to repair cost wise vs replacement, with Stilh being the worst as I can only get those parts from a dealer at retail. (pia)

Note to some of you who collect old saws I have some chain parts that go back some 50 years, maybe more -lot of strange spacings back then as compared to the more standardized .325,3/8,404 now. Homelight and John Deer had unique spacings back in the day. This stuff is free, just postage or what ever. I do not have any listing.

 

[walhondingnashua]

Great info all.
I think I would pay $6 but when I take several chains in, it adds up at $8 and I have not been impressed with the quality of the sharpening. I would rather blame myself for doing a poor job lol.
Since I can sharpen both saws, I’m going to go look at the 2-1 today.

 

[zrock]

Normal hand file with the angle on the handle. I taught myself to sharpen and only took a few times before i got it pretty much perfect. I file the rakers every few sharpening.

 

[maple1]

I free hand it.

Use a simple depth guage for the raker depth. I don't do those every time, maybe every third or fourth?

The only other thing I have tried is the simple Oregon type guide I think you were talking about. Just found it too awkward. Cant' say anything negative about 2 in 1's, or electrics, since I've never tired them.

 

[salecker]

I free hand my chains as well.
Most of my chains come to me second hand,so i will put them on my grinder to true them up.After that it is hand filing till the chain is gone or hits something like metal or rock.
I have tried a bunch of different devices in the past,but once i learned what it takes to have a sharp chain hand filing is the quickest and sharpest.

 

[DodgyNomad]

Another vote for the Pferd-Stihl 2 in 1. It's not just that it hits the cutter and and raker in 1 pass, it's the ergonomics and positive feedback it gives you. And it's freaking easy to use.

I think it's the best sharpener on the market, so do several of the guys I know who've used it and have them. Wicked engineering.

 

[jotul8e2]

Timberline with two different cutters for the two different saws. It is far ahead of anything else I have used. I use the inexpensive raker guides and touch them up with a Dremel as needed.

I also taught myself to freehand file but the instructor was an idiot and the pupil was just as bad.

 

[salecker]

I found the biggest help i had on learning to file freehand was, once i understood how the chain teeth were designed to cut it made all the difference.Then i knew what had to be sharp to get the job done.
I also freehand my drill bits on a bench grinder and never have any trouble drilling holes through hard steel,again once i learned what the drill was supposed to do it was easy.

 

[Medic21]

I have 2in1 files 3/8 and .325. I also grind chains. Depends on how bad the chain is, did I hit something or not. I charge $5 up to $10 over that.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I free handed for years after a guy at the local dealer destroyed a chain of mine. The teeth were discolored, 1/8" burr, absolutely horrible. I decided I could screw up a chain royally multiple times and do a better job than that guy.

Lately I've been using one of these:

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/completefilekits/


I found I was doing an ok job. Not bad, but I got more consistent with the jig.

 

[Stlshrk]

I usually cut between 5-7 cords a year. Mostly Red Oak, Chestnut Oak,White Oak, some Pignut Hickory, and occasionally something softer (like a Red Maple for shoulder season or start up). I had used some of the cheaper grinders over the years and even a couple of pretty expensive ones. What I once thought was sharp with a grinder, is actually not that sharp. Not to mention that less is more. Much more! What I mean is taking away less material when sharpening. That, plus it is pretty easy to destroy a chain from the heat with a grinder... It is just as destructive as hitting rocks and dirt.

Now I use a Granberg File-N-Joint. It clamps onto the bar and holds all of the angles. Then use an Oregon .025" gauge and flat file for the rakers. Now my chains are so much sharper, and last twice as long. As in years longer. A 20" 3/8" chain takes 8-10 mins, 10-13 mins if doing the rakers, 30+ mins if I have "help" LOL.

 

[walhondingnashua]

I just looked up the file n joint and I like it. Can anyone give a comparison using it vs. the 2-1?

 

[BoiledOver]

Been through quite an evolution with this chore. What finally felt best was hand filing in my own way. After doing this for years, I saw a youtube fella that shares my sentiments. You may or may not appreciate this guys personality but he is well experienced in lumbering and equipment. Younger than me but probably a step or two up as far as experience. Here is his video for chain sharpening.

One difference for me is to sharpen from the outside in as opposed to most folks and that youtube guy who sharpen outwards. Same with all other sharpening chores, it leaves no burr or rolls on the edge.

 

[TJ1]

Bought one of these a couple of years ago:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N4L2LO/?tag=hearthamazon-20

Works great, chain cuts straight. Set it up for minimum metal removal. Extremely happy with it.

 

[walhondingnashua]

Can the timberline sharpen more than I size chain? Both my saws are 30 degree but have different gauges,

 

[EatenByLimestone]

https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/shop/category/spare-parts

You need to buy different cutters.

 

[zrock]

Another vote for the Pferd-Stihl 2 in 1. It's not just that it hits the cutter and and raker in 1 pass, it's the ergonomics and positive feedback it gives you. And it's freaking easy to use.

I think it's the best sharpener on the market, so do several of the guys I know who've used it and have them. Wicked engineering.

I just picked up one today since they were on sale... so much quicker when u have to do the rakers. Chain was just as sharp as my free hand sharpening and most of my angles were spot on. Figured I'd give it a try since I'm cutting stumps and running into a pile of dirt in em.. 2 stumps sharpened 4 times the other day

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

 

[walhondingnashua]

After all the advice and a little research, I went with the granberg system. It looks like it will do a consistent job, can be taken anywhere with me, can sharpen both my saws, and was much cheaper than the timberline (would have bought it if not for the price). Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Dobish]

i have come to the conclusion that I suck at sharpening... that is all.

 

[DodgyNomad]

i have come to the conclusion that I suck at sharpening... that is all.

It takes a big man to come on here and admit that. Stay strong.

 

[Dobish]

It takes a big man to come on here and admit that. Stay strong.

i thought i had it with the 2n1, and I was doing well, but after about 30 minutes of cutting through some big stuff, i was just getting dust again... i will resharpen, clean out the saw and keep trying.... the 2n1 def. worked better than just the round file and the guide. I think i need a stump vice for sharpening too.... that might help.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Depending if you're cutting in the woods or along the side of the road can make a big difference on how long your chain sharpness lasts. Species matters too. A half hour might not be bad. Besides, if you are getting big chips right after you're done sharpening you can't be doing all that bad. You're on the right track.

See if you can find somebody that's good at sharpening to watch what youre doing. I had a guy watch, correct my hand literally a few degrees, and it made a world of difference.