Should I buy a chainsaw

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You would have to try hard to get injured with a battery operated chainsaw,but anything is possible!
 
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You would have to try hard to get injured with a battery operated chainsaw,but anything is possible!

NO. Not true.
A chainsaw no matter how powered can kill without proper PPE AND training and experience..
Chains love flesh.
In fact a non gas saw may not stop because of its torque when hitting the Kevlar threads the same way a gas saw will.
 
NO. Not true.
A chainsaw no matter how powered can kill without proper PPE AND training and experience..
Chains love flesh.
In fact a non gas saw may not stop because of its torque when hitting the Kevlar threads the same way a gas saw will.
I agree completly electric saws can be just as dangerous. The only reason they are any safer is that they have chaon brakes so when you let off the trigger the chain stops right away without the run down of a gas saw. Which is when many people get cut. I know that was the only time i have hit my chaps with a movong chain. Nothing happened but still a stupid mistake
 
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Any tool that moves at high RPM's like saws, grinders, mowers, etc. can and will hurt you if not carefully handled.
Thats just it the electric chainsaw runs at a low rpm, much lower than any gas powered saw i ever had. Still cuts good. You need to engage two buttons simultaneously to run it plus it has a kick back guard. I cant imagine a scenario where you could get hurt.
 
Thats just it the electric chainsaw runs at a low rpm, much lower than any gas powered saw i ever had. Still cuts good. You need to engage two buttons simultaneously to run it plus it has a kick back guard. I cant imagine a scenario where you could get hurt.
You would get hurt exactly the same way you would with a gas powered saw. If a part of your body comes on contact with the chain while it is moving it will cut you. It doesnt matter if the power comes from gas or electricity. And if the rpm is high enough to cut wood it is certainly high enough to cut flesh and bone
 
Thats just it the electric chainsaw runs at a low rpm, much lower than any gas powered saw i ever had. Still cuts good. You need to engage two buttons simultaneously to run it plus it has a kick back guard. I cant imagine a scenario where you could get hurt.

Not the RPM that can bleed you, it is the lack of chain shut down due to the Kevlar threads in the chaps ( if you are wearing them of course ) that will stop a gas saw near immediately. Battery or electric CAN keep running; the threads WILL not clog the chain.
In training we are shown and told that if the chaps are nicked or oil, fuel mix, or sap soaked, replace them. The threads are damaged and will not stop the chain. Most of us HAD to get new chaps to pass the course.
It has nothing to do with kick back.
Just for TMI, I use the electric for cutting roots or close to the ground stumps.
 
Fascinating, informational conversation. Having the back injury slow me down last fall was for the best. Getting through first winter with hubby gone, was good to see what I would really be facing. I am finding the hand tools very enjoyable to be outside putting around, quiet and I find I accomplish quite a bit. As my yard is surrounded by trees and bushes that need a lot of pruning. Got a 7- ton boss electric splitter that my grandsons love to operate for me. Really pleased with that. Out performs expectations!

I still think of chain saws, and see from reading here, reality is experience and the best route for me would be classes with seasoned teachers. That would either give me further desire or contentment as things are. Love being out doors any time of year, Makes everything better!
 
If you are still afraid of chain saws try a reciprocating battery operated saw. You wont get the production or speed of a chain saw but it can do the job. You can buy limbing wood blades which are about 10" long and take down a medium sized tree. They are quite tame and not heavy. It certainly beats sawing with a hand saw.
 
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The issue with electric saws not being stopped so easily with kevlar chaps is that gas engines only have maybe 10-15% torque rise, a very slight increase from rated power to stalled. So it doesn’t take so much to stall them out.
Electric motors have 150-300% torque rise to stall, depending on the design. They they have a lot more reserve to pull them through overloads (good for air compressors, bad for chaps).
That is also the origin of the old rule of thumb (which is wrong) of “2 gas hp = 1 electric hp”.
Part of that is gas engines run at 3600 rpm and electrics at 1800, but that’s another topic. Mainly it is torque rise on overload.

I’d say go for it. Partly to cut wood, and partly to stretch your comfort zone and learn you can handle SO much more than you ever thought to overcome.

Start with the bow or silky folding saw. You will use them forever even after getting a chain saw. Learn, research, and when you are ready (not necessarily ‘comfortable’) try the battery chainsaw. Maybe gas someday, maybe not. Be safe, but stretch the comfort zone.

Kcj
 
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It does not sound like you are going into the deep woods with this thing. If you have power near by, get an electric reciprocating saw. With an aggressive blade it will go through small stuff like do do through a goose, and be safer than either an electric, battery or gas powered saw. Probably cheaper too.

Laugh if you will, but I have been using one for decades on more stuff than you can shake a stick at. Construction, demolition, tree trimming, yard work, metal work, etc..
 
It does not sound like you are going into the deep woods with this thing. If you have power near by, get an electric reciprocating saw. With an aggressive blade it will go through small stuff like do do through a goose, and be safer than either an electric, battery or gas powered saw. Probably cheaper too.

Laugh if you will, but I have been using one for decades on more stuff than you can shake a stick at. Construction, demolition, tree trimming, yard work, metal work, etc..
I think this is a great idea. So good, in fact, I tried it myself. Maybe I got the wrong blades (Vermont brand, looked like bow saw blades), but it was painfully slow.

What blades do you recommend on this setup? Maybe I'll try it again with different blades.
 
What blades do you recommend on this setup? Maybe I'll try it again with different blades.
I use an aggressive Demolition blade for fast cutting rough work
It will also cut any nails, screws or wire in a branch