Should I return my new Gransfors Bruks small forest axe?
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![[Hearth.com] Should I return my new Gransfors Bruks small forest axe?](/talk/data/attachments/229/229000-741a925fb0611b8cb5687764ad2a17f9.jpg?hash=LA1FNFx_A_)
Not a hard decision - return it.
Alpine1
Feeling the Heat
I got this response from another group where a few guys who seemed to know their stuff said that it's normal and that all GB small forest axes will have something similar:
Most of the people in this thread are a bit alarmist. Suppose for the sake of argument that it is a real crack in the axe(it isn't). There would two things you would worry about happening. First, you would worry about the crack running up through the eye enough that after some usage the eye would spread and the head would come loose. Second, that the crack gets worse to the extent that you will break the axehead.
In the first situation, you would notice that after some VERY serious usage that the head might jiggle a bit. No problem, just drive the handle in a bit more and add an additional wedge.
The second situation is basically impossible since these axes are differentially hardened and the eye is made of softer steel than the edge. It is more prone to bending than breaking.
What this is is a byproduct of drifting the eye through a solid piece of steel in an industrial process. A block of heated steel will be hottest towards the center and cooler wherever it makes contact with any other metal in the production process. As they drift the eye, the underside of the axe is in contact with an 'anvil' and is cooled. If the guy running the press is not super cognizant of what they are doing, the underside can be just a bit too cold to deform smoothly as the drift passes through. This causes the apparent crack you are seeing. This is not a real crack. It is a surface artifact of the manufacturing process. If this axe had a forge-welded eye, you would have a bit more reason to worry.
Use your axe with the full confidence that you are using one of the best made axes on the market. Cheers mate.
Most of the people in this thread are a bit alarmist. Suppose for the sake of argument that it is a real crack in the axe(it isn't). There would two things you would worry about happening. First, you would worry about the crack running up through the eye enough that after some usage the eye would spread and the head would come loose. Second, that the crack gets worse to the extent that you will break the axehead.
In the first situation, you would notice that after some VERY serious usage that the head might jiggle a bit. No problem, just drive the handle in a bit more and add an additional wedge.
The second situation is basically impossible since these axes are differentially hardened and the eye is made of softer steel than the edge. It is more prone to bending than breaking.
What this is is a byproduct of drifting the eye through a solid piece of steel in an industrial process. A block of heated steel will be hottest towards the center and cooler wherever it makes contact with any other metal in the production process. As they drift the eye, the underside of the axe is in contact with an 'anvil' and is cooled. If the guy running the press is not super cognizant of what they are doing, the underside can be just a bit too cold to deform smoothly as the drift passes through. This causes the apparent crack you are seeing. This is not a real crack. It is a surface artifact of the manufacturing process. If this axe had a forge-welded eye, you would have a bit more reason to worry.
Use your axe with the full confidence that you are using one of the best made axes on the market. Cheers mate.
Alpine1
Feeling the Heat
Uhmmm.... just my 0.02€
First, if I buy a handmade axe and pay for it, I expect it to be visually AND functionally perfect.
Second, if “the guy running the press is not super cognizant of what he’s doing” he shouldn’t be doing that job, not at Gransfors at least (or Wetterlings or Hults Bruk or any of the premium axe manufacturers).
If you bought the axe as factory second, no problem. But if you paid the extra price to have a premium tool, return it to the seller.
Third, to my eye that’s not an “apparent crack” but I may be mislead by the picture.
Fourth, I wouldn’t be willing to drive additional wedges, or any other “make do” on a basically new tool.
But that’s just my two (well, four) cents.
First, if I buy a handmade axe and pay for it, I expect it to be visually AND functionally perfect.
Second, if “the guy running the press is not super cognizant of what he’s doing” he shouldn’t be doing that job, not at Gransfors at least (or Wetterlings or Hults Bruk or any of the premium axe manufacturers).
If you bought the axe as factory second, no problem. But if you paid the extra price to have a premium tool, return it to the seller.
Third, to my eye that’s not an “apparent crack” but I may be mislead by the picture.
Fourth, I wouldn’t be willing to drive additional wedges, or any other “make do” on a basically new tool.
But that’s just my two (well, four) cents.
Alpine1
Feeling the Heat
Oh, and if really is normal... buy from a different manufacturer. My Hults Bruck, my two Øyo and all the other lesser tools I have are made better than that.
Yeah most people are on the same page. The first person to tell me that it's normal worked for the retailer (foresty supplies) so there may be some bias there.
I hope you can see why it is a bit uncomfortable for me, a relative novice, to essentially "accuse" a master axe smith at a really well respected company like GB. Maybe not accuse but at least question his work. They are pretty well renowned as the cream of the crop when it comes to axes. It feels a bit like I am implying that I know better than MF, Mattias Forlund, who is probably some tall bearded Swedish dude that has been genetically and culturally engineered to be an ax making genius, lol.
Whether it is a "crack" defect or a normal "surface artifact" I really don't know, and I trust GB to tell me straight. The company's pride, and a 20 year warranty is plenty of enough of a guarantee for me.
It probably doesn't help that I LOVE the grain on the handle and don't want to send it back. Also it cuts like a BEAST! I'll leave it up to GB and keep you all posted.
At the end of the day I am with you, and do think that this just looks and feels abnormal.
I hope you can see why it is a bit uncomfortable for me, a relative novice, to essentially "accuse" a master axe smith at a really well respected company like GB. Maybe not accuse but at least question his work. They are pretty well renowned as the cream of the crop when it comes to axes. It feels a bit like I am implying that I know better than MF, Mattias Forlund, who is probably some tall bearded Swedish dude that has been genetically and culturally engineered to be an ax making genius, lol.
Whether it is a "crack" defect or a normal "surface artifact" I really don't know, and I trust GB to tell me straight. The company's pride, and a 20 year warranty is plenty of enough of a guarantee for me.
It probably doesn't help that I LOVE the grain on the handle and don't want to send it back. Also it cuts like a BEAST! I'll leave it up to GB and keep you all posted.
At the end of the day I am with you, and do think that this just looks and feels abnormal.
Prof
Minister of Fire
Let me start by acknowledging that I'm no expert in this matter. That said, I have a bit of a hobby in refurbishing old hatchets. I like finding something at a yard sale for a buck or two and returning it to some functional tool. I avoid any tools with cracks. Maybe I'm over-reacting, but I don't like the prospect of an axe head failing. Secondly, you could go to a big box store and look at their $20 line up and probably not find anything with a crack like the one you have. Frankly, I'm a bit surprised that GB didn't immediately make it right. BTW, if your fingernail gets caught in it--it is a crack.
Jazzberry
Minister of Fire
I would return it and get something with a gas tank on it.
Nothing normal or acceptable about it...it would be on its way back if it were mine.
Chances are, you won't work that axe hard enough on wood to cause that head to fail for a very long time, if ever. That being said, it's still a very sizable flaw, and isn't something I'd be comfortable with, at all. That's a heck of a crack, and I don't like the direction it's running.
Matt93eg
Burning Hunk
I agree. I’m not super picky about a lot of things, but if I were to buy a hand made axe t better well be PERFECT!
CentralVAWoodHeat
Minister of Fire
Go with your gut. You know it is a crack.
I would never work with a striking tool that has a crack that large.
I would never work with a striking tool that has a crack that large.
Todd67
Minister of Fire
I bought a cheap 4 pound axe with a wooden handle at Harbor Freight last year and the axe looks perfect, both the handle & the head. There's no reason for your axe to have a crack of any size, in your handle or the axe head. Maybe show the retailer a cheap axe that has no such flaws and see what he says. But I'm no expert either.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Why would a hand made tool be perfect? Isn't that the point of buying hand made vs something made by a machine? The machine cannot finesse the metals and work them into a shape. The machine does not have deftness of hand like a human. Sometimes machine made tools do have flaws, but that's what quality control is for, they throw those back. Best believe that most of all of the tools in a box store are made by the same mfg, but not necessarily the same brand. They all look perfect because the flawed ones get thrown back.
Humans are not flawless, do not expect flawless work. Even gem cutters make mistakes.
Humans are not flawless, do not expect flawless work. Even gem cutters make mistakes.
Todd67
Minister of Fire
I agree to a point, but quality control with handhmade tools should be held to a higher standard when they charge "custom" prices.
It probably wasn't the tool maker's fault that the axe in question has a crack in it. I would question the quality of the steel before I question the ability of the craftsman. No two lots of steel are exactly the same...
It probably wasn't the tool maker's fault that the axe in question has a crack in it. I would question the quality of the steel before I question the ability of the craftsman. No two lots of steel are exactly the same...
VirginiaIron
Minister of Fire
I could not view your image. The Fiskars site I visited boasts a "FULL LIFETIME GUARANTEE". Unfortunately, the corporate definition of lifetime might be six swings. Take it back.
![[Hearth.com] Should I return my new Gransfors Bruks small forest axe?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/screenshot_2018-12-09-11-17-56-webp.235271/ "[Hearth.com] Should I return my new Gransfors Bruks small forest axe?")
VirginiaIron
Minister of Fire
When I was working at a dealership in the 1980's the service manager was telling complaining customers it was "normal" for their engine to experience piston slap until it warmed up. Yeah, who knew how many improperly built engines left the factory that way. Many customers just accepted it. Not me.
VirginiaIron
Minister of Fire
"From post # 5. I got this response from another group where a few guys who seemed to know their stuff said that it's normal and that all GB small forest axes will have something similar:
Most of the people in this thread are a bit alarmist. Suppose for the sake of argument that it is a real crack in the axe(it isn't). There would two things you would worry about happening. First, you would worry about the crack running up through the eye enough that after some usage the eye would spread and the head would come loose. Second, that the crack gets worse to the extent that you will break the axehead.
In the first situation, you would notice that after some VERY serious usage that the head might jiggle a bit. No problem, just drive the handle in a bit more and add an additional wedge.
The second situation is basically impossible since these axes are differentially hardened and the eye is made of softer steel than the edge. It is more prone to bending than breaking.
What this is is a byproduct of drifting the eye through a solid piece of steel in an industrial process. A block of heated steel will be hottest towards the center and cooler wherever it makes contact with any other metal in the production process. As they drift the eye, the underside of the axe is in contact with an 'anvil' and is cooled. If the guy running the press is not super cognizant of what they are doing, the underside can be just a bit too cold to deform smoothly as the drift passes through. This causes the apparent crack you are seeing. This is not a real crack. It is a surface artifact of the manufacturing process. If this axe had a forge-welded eye, you would have a bit more reason to worry.
Use your axe with the full confidence that you are using one of the best made axes on the market. Cheers mate."
Alarmist? Would concerned be a better term to describe it?
As the one long as you have a guarantee, there is no need in managing your risks other than returning it.
If the ax was a hundred years old and used by you father or grandad, you might not want to return it.
Have the company send you a letter indicating the ax is safe to use while in this condition. Then use it if you trust it.
Most of the people in this thread are a bit alarmist. Suppose for the sake of argument that it is a real crack in the axe(it isn't). There would two things you would worry about happening. First, you would worry about the crack running up through the eye enough that after some usage the eye would spread and the head would come loose. Second, that the crack gets worse to the extent that you will break the axehead.
In the first situation, you would notice that after some VERY serious usage that the head might jiggle a bit. No problem, just drive the handle in a bit more and add an additional wedge.
The second situation is basically impossible since these axes are differentially hardened and the eye is made of softer steel than the edge. It is more prone to bending than breaking.
What this is is a byproduct of drifting the eye through a solid piece of steel in an industrial process. A block of heated steel will be hottest towards the center and cooler wherever it makes contact with any other metal in the production process. As they drift the eye, the underside of the axe is in contact with an 'anvil' and is cooled. If the guy running the press is not super cognizant of what they are doing, the underside can be just a bit too cold to deform smoothly as the drift passes through. This causes the apparent crack you are seeing. This is not a real crack. It is a surface artifact of the manufacturing process. If this axe had a forge-welded eye, you would have a bit more reason to worry.
Use your axe with the full confidence that you are using one of the best made axes on the market. Cheers mate."
Alarmist? Would concerned be a better term to describe it?
As the one long as you have a guarantee, there is no need in managing your risks other than returning it.
If the ax was a hundred years old and used by you father or grandad, you might not want to return it.
Have the company send you a letter indicating the ax is safe to use while in this condition. Then use it if you trust it.
Jazzberry
Minister of Fire
I look at it like buying a new car with a smoking motor. Especially if I paid for a Rolls then definitely someone would have to compensate me bigly.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
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