should my vent pipe out the back of the stove be able to twist back and forth?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

jjdesch

New Member
Jul 17, 2008
65
Eastern Long Island, NY
I was cleaning around my stove and had an urge to see of the vent pipe attached directly out of the back of my stove (a whitfield profile 30 FS-2) was nice and snug, and to my surprise I am able to easily twist it clockwise and counter-clockwise. I had the dealer who sold me the stove professionally install it, and the specs call for a bead of hi-temp silicone be applied to the stoves quick connect before the vent pipe (duravent) is attached. Wouldn't this have made a tight, locked seal that would require some force before one was able to twist the pipe? Did the bozo forget to put on the bead of silicone? Or should there be some play after the sealer dries? I have not had any smoke issues, and I have a new smoke and carbon monoxide detector in close proximity, but now I am now a bit concerned.
 
jjdesch said:
I was cleaning around my stove and had an urge to see of the vent pipe attached directly out of the back of my stove (a whitfield profile 30 FS-2) was nice and snug, and to my surprise I am able to easily twist it clockwise and counter-clockwise. I had the dealer who sold me the stove professionally install it, and the specs call for a bead of hi-temp silicone be applied to the stoves quick connect before the vent pipe (duravent) is attached. Wouldn't this have made a tight, locked seal that would require some force before one was able to twist the pipe? Did the bozo forget to put on the bead of silicone? Or should there be some play after the sealer dries? I have not had any smoke issues, and I have a new smoke and carbon monoxide detector in close proximity, but now I am now a bit concerned.

By "quick connect", do you mean an appliance adapter? That adapts the smooth exhaust flue on the stove to the duravent pipe. If so, there should be some sort of sealant, plus the adapter should be screwed to the exhaust pipe of the stove with 3 sheet metal screws.

If your "professional" installer didn't do these, they did a poor job IMO, and I wouldn't call them "professionals" at all. If I were you, I'd be calling them to come back and do the job the right way.
 
macman said:
jjdesch said:
I was cleaning around my stove and had an urge to see of the vent pipe attached directly out of the back of my stove (a whitfield profile 30 FS-2) was nice and snug, and to my surprise I am able to easily twist it clockwise and counter-clockwise. I had the dealer who sold me the stove professionally install it, and the specs call for a bead of hi-temp silicone be applied to the stoves quick connect before the vent pipe (duravent) is attached. Wouldn't this have made a tight, locked seal that would require some force before one was able to twist the pipe? Did the bozo forget to put on the bead of silicone? Or should there be some play after the sealer dries? I have not had any smoke issues, and I have a new smoke and carbon monoxide detector in close proximity, but now I am now a bit concerned.

By "quick connect", do you mean an appliance adapter? That adapts the smooth exhaust flue on the stove to the duravent pipe. If so, there should be some sort of sealant, plus the adapter should be screwed to the exhaust pipe of the stove with 3 sheet metal screws.

If your "professional" installer didn't do these, they did a poor job IMO, and I wouldn't call them "professionals" at all. If I were you, I'd be calling them to come back and do the job the right way.

The newer Pellet Vent Pro does not need screws but does need silicone in any joint inside the house.

Eric
 
[

The newer Pellet Vent Pro does not need screws but does need silicone in any joint inside the house.

Eric[/quote]
could you tell me why the three screws are not necessary on this brand of vent ,when everything I've read
says you need them :-S
 
xpellet freakx said:
[

The newer Pellet Vent Pro does not need screws but does need silicone in any joint inside the house.

Eric
could you tell me why the three screws are not necessary on this brand of vent ,when everything I've read
says you need them :-S[/quote]

Page 3 paragraph number #8 of the Dura Vent installation instruction Manual says, "Screws are not required. If however, screws are desired, use 1/4"- long sheet metal screws. Under no circumstances, penetrate the inner liner with the screws.".

I wish I could cut and paste this or scan it but we do not have that technology.

Eric
 
The install manual simply calls the pipe a "quick disconnect" and is mounted over the exhaust port, separated by a lytherm gasket. It is smooth with no locking collar indentations on it. You are supposed to apply a bead of sealer over this disconnect, and then slip the straight duravent pipe over this. The manual does not call for three screws. My questions remain:

1) - could the seal have dried out prematurely. accounting for the slippage, or

2) - is this slippage normal, or

3) did the bozo not put any, or enough sealant in the first place?

I am calling the dealer tomorrow, but he has not returned another call I placed before thanksgiving on a rattle issue I was having. I expect to hear - "go to home depot and get some sealer if you are concerned." He is about an hour away from me, so he won't be anxious to come calling on me

Should I stop using the stove until I resolve this one way or another?

thx
 
jjdesch said:
The install manual simply calls the pipe a "quick disconnect" and is mounted over the exhaust port, separated by a lytherm gasket. It is smooth with no locking collar indentations on it. You are supposed to apply a bead of sealer over this disconnect, and then slip the straight duravent pipe over this. The manual does not call for three screws. My questions remain:

1) - could the seal have dried out prematurely. accounting for the slippage, or

2) - is this slippage normal, or

3) did the bozo not put any, or enough sealant in the first place?

I am calling the dealer tomorrow, but he has not returned another call I placed before thanksgiving on a rattle issue I was having. I expect to hear - "go to home depot and get some sealer if you are concerned." He is about an hour away from me, so he won't be anxious to come calling on me

Should I stop using the stove until I resolve this one way or another?

thx

I would go with #3a did the bozo not put any

Eric
 
kinsman stoves said:
xpellet freakx said:
[

The newer Pellet Vent Pro does not need screws but does need silicone in any joint inside the house.

Eric
could you tell me why the three screws are not necessary on this brand of vent ,when everything I've read
says you need them :-S

Page 3 paragraph number #8 of the installation instruction Manual says, "Screws are not required. If however, screws are desired, use 1/4"- long sheet metal screws. Under no circumstances, penetrate the inner liner with the screws.".

I wish I could cut and paste this or scan it but we do not have that technology.

Eric[/quote]
no I was talking about the appliance adapter connecting to the stove collar itself, it should be screwed to the stove collar
with three screws.not pipe to pipe connection
 
Hard to do on a Breckwell, it is 1/8" thick and no way to get a drill inside the stove on most models. The exhaust does not stick out.

Eric
 
kinsman stoves said:
Hard to do on a Breckwell, it is 1/8" thick and no way to get a drill inside the stove on most models. The exhaust does not stick out.

Eric
o.k. thanks
 
Just goop on the sealant around where they connect. On the outside not inside. Will seal it right up.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.