Small Fireplace with Specs - What Fits?

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Thanks bholler. I am reading through this thread now. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...s-for-insulated-liner-and-termination.188589/

I found this post interesting:
“ Duraliner oval is rigid and preinsulated. It will fit in the 7x11 flue. Where would the 45º offset be occurring? At the stove?”

Would this be a good option? Are there others to consider? And there appears to be a 45 offset in the smoke chamber to the flue.
I just use ovalized flex liner and wrap it myself. I actually ovalize it myself as well because I have the equipment to do it. But it can be bought
 
I just use ovalized flex liner and wrap it myself. I actually ovalize it myself as well because I have the equipment to do it. But it can be bought
I just got off the phone with the second installer. They said they’ve tried the oval liners in the past but prefer to demo the tiles. I don’t know if he considered ovalized flex and insulating them. Should I suggest this to him or go ahead with demoing the tiles and 6” round insulated? It is a three story chimney and the tiles are cracked.

And you also agree that uninsulated stainless in the flue is a no go? The fist installer claims that it is safe, and of course his quote is a few thousand less.

Bholler, I also found this quote from you in another thread:
“To me the question of ovalize or break out comes down to the condition of your current tiles. If they are already damaged I would take them out if not I would ovalize. And if your installer says there is no need for insulation I would find a different installer.”

Is this still your take? Cracked tiles out, round liner in, skip the installer trying to go uninsulated.
 
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I just got off the phone with the second installer. They said they’ve tried the oval liners in the past but prefer to demo the tiles. I don’t know if he considered ovalized flex and insulating them. Should I suggest this to him or go ahead with demoing the tiles and 6” round insulated? It is a three story chimney and the tiles are cracked.

And you also agree that uninsulated stainless in the flue is a no go? The fist installer claims that it is safe, and of course his quote is a few thousand less.

Bholler, I also found this quote from you in another thread:
“To me the question of ovalize or break out comes down to the condition of your current tiles. If they are already damaged I would take them out if not I would ovalize. And if your installer says there is no need for insulation I would find a different installer.”

Is this still your take? Cracked tiles out, round liner in, skip the installer trying to go uninsulated.
In general yes. But if there is a good way to avoid the extra cost to the customer by not breaking out as long as it can still be properly insulated i may do that
 
I cut out a template of a wood stove I’m interested and placed it into my fireplace. It seems like it should fit, but the tolerances are tight. Does anyone have input on whether it should fit or if it is too tight?
 

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What insert is this for? Does the back of fireplace go straight up, or is it sloping?
 
What insert is this for? Does the back of fireplace go straight up, or is it sloping?
The template is for the lopi medium flush insert. The fireplace back slopes out and back in towards the room. After lifting my template up 22” to adjust for the stove height, it does not seem like the stove would fit without modification to the fireplace. One installer mentioned that there is not much space behind the fire brick, that behind it is structural masonry.
 
Sorry I'm late to this thread. I struggled for a while to find an insert to fit in my very small fireplace and then ended up putting a freestanding stove in front of it, with a rear flue exit to a tee at the bottom of the liner. In my case I had to fabricate some unobtrusive heat shields to protect the wooden surround. I am happy with this solution.
 
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Sorry I'm late to this thread. I struggled for a while to find an insert to fit in my very small fireplace and then ended up putting a freestanding stove in front of it, with a rear flue exit to a tee at the bottom of the liner. In my case I had to fabricate some unobtrusive heat shields to protect the wooden surround. I am happy with this solution.
I think the rear venting freestanding stove is a good solution for some. I’m sure I’ll miss the radiant heat I had with my previous free standing BlazeKing Ashford. I don’t have the floor room at this new location for one. My wife prefers the look of the flush inserts. I want to maximize stove volume. It seems like the BlazeKing Princess and the Lopi Evergreen should both fit.
 
Measure twice or thrice.
What is the fireplace depth at 21" off of the hearth floor?
 
Measure twice or thrice.
What is the fireplace depth at 21" off of the hearth floor?
This is a difficult measurement to take. The height at the front seems to be a little different than the back. But I’m measuring 18.25” depth at 21” height off the hearth floor at the back. The lopi medium flush height is 19.75” at the back.
 
That seems like a no go on the Lopi Medium. I know its hard to hear, but consider all that needs to occur, the unit has to fit physically and have the liner connection work as well. Is the damper opening at the back of the fireplace, or more towards the front? Sometimes a smaller insert that can be installed properly is the best choice, the first time around. Please remember too, the installer has to get their paws in there to install the unit and liner... Good luck.
 
That seems like a no go on the Lopi Medium. I know its hard to hear, but consider all that needs to occur, the unit has to fit physically and have the liner connection work as well. Is the damper opening at the back of the fireplace, or more towards the front? Sometimes a smaller insert that can be installed properly is the best choice, the first time around. Please remember too, the installer has to get their paws in there to install the unit and liner... Good luck.
Thanks stovelark. That makes sense to me, and it is reassuring to hear this a second time. This was also a similar position that the installer had.