Smoke in house regency small classic insert

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Hunttrap

New Member
Nov 1, 2021
13
Eastern Nebraska
I had a regency small classic insert put in my masonry fireplace. It was done by a company out of Omaha. The house is a single story ranch style house. The house is located on a the Elkhorn river bluff flat. I have one tree to the west side of my house about 20 yards from the chimney. The fireplace is on the main level with another fireplace in the basement with "doubling" or "side by side" chimney systems. The insert is located on the main level of the house. They insulated the chimney like they were supposed to and put in a stainless steal flue liner. I believe the liner is about 16 foot and is the 6 inch .....I think. From what I can tell (although not a wood stove / fireplace expert) they did a good job. The couple fires I have made was with split hackberry and oak. The moisture level is right around 12 percent. When I open up the door smoke comes out of the fireplace, and the draft seems very weak. I cant seem to even get the fire very hot, but have gotten it warm enough to start the blower a few times. The flame doesn't even look hot. It is deep orange looking, not the light orange/ yellow look I've observed from good hot fires from my old wood stove I had last year in my old house. One thing that I noticed is the air control lever on the bottom of the stove seems to do nothing for adjusting the air flow. It does not matter if it is all the way open or all the way closed the fire is no different. I have tried opening windows, closing vents, getting the fire as hot as I can and smoke still pours out. Overall I am very disappointed. Ive called the company that installed and so far they have been working with me to find a solution to the problem. I was wondering if anyone on here has any suggestions on what the issue could be? Has anyone had similar experiences?

Some things I thought of was the chimney is too short and should be extended, and the other thing is that the air control lever is somehow broken. My only issue with the broken air control lever theory is that I would still think the smoke would draft correctly after the chimney gets good and hot.

Any theory's???? Id greatly appreciate it. Winter fastly approaching and I need heat!!!!!
 

moresnow

Minister of Fire
Jan 13, 2015
1,922
Iowa
Welcome to Hearth. Just to clarify because you will be questioned here. When checking moisture content you should select a few splits and bring them indoors overnight to let them get to room temp. These splits then need to be re-split and apply the moisture meter to the freshly exposed inner face. If you are only testing the outer surface of your splits off the pile your results mean zero. The only reason I am pointing this out is that I am currently burning Oak that had been split and stacked for 3 full years. None of it measures under 16%. Common reading for my seasoned wood. I am in a similar part of the country as you and cannot get wood dried to 12%.

Is your stove a brand new stove/install? If my recollection is correct you should research the new Regency stoves for a baffle adjustment procedure related directly to smoke rollout.


See page 26 in this manual. The verticle deflector has been adjusted up/more open on some installs with your issue. Worth a look/mention to whoever is working with you.
 
Last edited:

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
91,331
South Puget Sound, WA
Usually air controls are simple affairs. They are often blamed but rarely fail. Look for other possibles.

Some areas just have weak draft due to local terrain. This sometimes needs another couple feet on the chimney to boost draft. Also, outside temp and pressure can affect draft. What was the outdoor temp when you lit the fire?

Is the house very well sealed? If so, try opening a close by window about an inch and see if that perks up the fire.

When you tested the wood for moisture was it at room temp and split in half first so that it could be tested in the middle on the freshly exposed face of wood?

It's unlikely, but there is a remote chance that they didn't connect the liner to the stove properly and it is leaking.
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
26,897
central pa
Also what was the outside temperature?
 

velvetfoot

Minister of Fire
Dec 5, 2005
10,135
Sand Lake, NY
On page 22 of your manual, it sound like installation required fitting of a bracket or something, that might not have been installed for shipping purpose. What do you think?

1635813677534.png
 

velvetfoot

Minister of Fire
Dec 5, 2005
10,135
Sand Lake, NY
That is just the hanger for the handle
Well, it was worth a shot. Hard to visualize.

The baffle system seems a little complex to me, but it doesn't seem like it can be mis-positioned so it blocks anything.

If you can't get it to burn well with the stove door or a window cracked open, I'm gonna say wood or it's too warm outside.
 

kennyp2339

Minister of Fire
Feb 16, 2014
6,291
07462
I'm going to say that your wood is to wet, or the fire doesnt have enough wood splits to really get ripping. Also a lot of stove act totally different when there is a bed of ash on the bottom vs clean brick.
 

Hunttrap

New Member
Nov 1, 2021
13
Eastern Nebraska
Thanks for the replies. Wood is good and dry, I do not believe that to be the issue. Even if the wood is a little wet I would think once it gets heated up the smoke would go through the chimney not come out the front of the stove. I took video of the lack of response when the air control lever is adjusted and sent it to my install guy. He then sent the video over to regency. They said that it looks like something got goofed up during the factory build because there should be a response to the fire when the air supply lever is opened up. They also mentioned that there is a built in smoke deflector in there as well that may have been put in incorrectly at the factory. So they are going to replace the unit, with a new stove. I'm happy that there is a plan to move forward with this, and I will keep you guys informed on what the out come is. They said they will rush the order and should be installed in the next couple of weeks.
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
26,897
central pa
Thanks for the replies. Wood is good and dry, I do not believe that to be the issue. Even if the wood is a little wet I would think once it gets heated up the smoke would go through the chimney not come out the front of the stove. I took video of the lack of response when the air control lever is adjusted and sent it to my install guy. He then sent the video over to regency. They said that it looks like something got goofed up during the factory build because there should be a response to the fire when the air supply lever is opened up. They also mentioned that there is a built in smoke deflector in there as well that may have been put in incorrectly at the factory. So they are going to replace the unit, with a new stove. I'm happy that there is a plan to move forward with this, and I will keep you guys informed on what the out come is. They said they will rush the order and should be installed in the next couple of weeks.
What was the outside temperature? And what procedure are you using to test the moisture content of your wood? I am glad regency is stepping up but I am by no means convinced the stove is the issue. And the install sounds good.
 

moresnow

Minister of Fire
Jan 13, 2015
1,922
Iowa
https://assets.regency-fire.com/get...d-821f-1a67f8e4fc14/I1150-English-Manual.aspx
See page 26 in this manual. The verticle deflector has been adjusted up/more open on some installs with your issue. Worth a look/mention to whoever is working with you.
Soooo? If you or your dealer are capable. Why not simply do what others have already to fix this issue. Adjust the deflector/or remove it to be more open and give it a try. Sure seems to be the easiest route. Free, and should be easy peasy on a new stove that has baffle components that come apart with little if any effort.
 
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Hunttrap

New Member
Nov 1, 2021
13
Eastern Nebraska
This morning the outside temp was 22. When I made my first few fires the temp outside was in the 40s and 30s. Ive gotten the same result regardless of lower outside temps. My dealer said, after talking to the factory, they have had some issues with the stainless steal smoke deflectors being made incorrectly and therefore pumping smoke out of the front door when open. The factory said that there should be an obvious response when the air damper is opened. They thought something must be goofy with the air damper. How they are made incorrectly I have no clue. That is the way the install guy explained it. I had a good fire going last night, wood was burning good and hot. Hottest I have been able to get it. I used some good oak chunks. The only way I can get it to burn hot like that is by leaving the door open a jar for air to get in. Once it gets going I shut the door. And the system acts like I shut the damper all the way down with no response to the air damper lever.

https://assets.regency-fire.com/get...d-821f-1a67f8e4fc14/I1150-English-Manual.aspx
See page 26 in this manual. The verticle deflector has been adjusted up/more open on some installs with your issue. Worth a look/mention to whoever is working with you.

After looking at page 26 closer I see that the smoke deflector can be removed and replaced without sending it back. Do you think the smoke deflector can cause the lack of air being pulled through the air damper, and that could be the issue? It would make sense to me that the if the smoke and air is being deflected incorrectly in the stove it was cause a lack of draft. True???? Thanks for the help for those whom replied.
 

velvetfoot

Minister of Fire
Dec 5, 2005
10,135
Sand Lake, NY
I have also had good response from Regency, for my Hampton, when the smoke deflector rotted out. They since went to a replacement stainless steel design.

When I was first looking at a way to reduce secondary air, I discovered they really buried the linkage deep, as in welded in a box. Not possible for an ordinary owner to access.

edit: My problem was too much draft, but I do have a tall chimney.
edit2: They've probably had this problem before, and this is not their first rodeo for the issue.
 
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Hunttrap

New Member
Nov 1, 2021
13
Eastern Nebraska
Update...... install company came in yesterday and installed a new unit. Old unit was installed incorrectly. Also old units air control lever on the bottom of the stove was confirmed malfunctioned. The new stove works good. Draws air well. A lot more heat produced when compared to the old unit. Still a little smoke escapes but i think when temps get cooler that will fix itself. Thanks for input some put in.
 

Hunttrap

New Member
Nov 1, 2021
13
Eastern Nebraska
Need more input please. So after the guy left last week it seemed to be drawing well with only maybe a puff of smoke coming out everyonce in a while when i opened the door. Currently im back to my same issue. Flames and smoke. I took a video of it to show. I think my next option may be to extend the flue. Any suggestions.
 

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EatenByLimestone

Minister of Fire
I have audio, but no video.


When the company comes to service tge unit, you might wantcto check to see if they installed a block off plate at the bottom of the chimney. It'll keep a lot more heat in the house.
 

kennyp2339

Minister of Fire
Feb 16, 2014
6,291
07462
Maybe I'm missing a program or update somewhere, but none of your posted pics or videos are showing up.
 

kennyp2339

Minister of Fire
Feb 16, 2014
6,291
07462
The only way I can get it to burn hot like that is by leaving the door open a jar for air to get in. Once it gets going I shut the door. And the system acts like I shut the damper all the way down with no response to the air damper lever.
This right here is a clear indication that your wood is to wet, if you had a draft problem or bad airwash issue, you would never open the door because even with it cracked open the stove would vent to a more positive air pressure (inside your house) but it sounds like the chimney and draft is functioning normal since your not filling your living space with smoke (when stoves burn they create a vacuum) I know it may be tough to wrap your head around this, but new stoves will not burn well at all with wood that has a moisture content of 22% or higher, ideally you want 18% average moisture content.
 

Hunttrap

New Member
Nov 1, 2021
13
Eastern Nebraska
This right here is a clear indication that your wood is to wet, if you had a draft problem or bad airwash issue, you would never open the door because even with it cracked open the stove would vent to a more positive air pressure (inside your house) but it sounds like the chimney and draft is functioning normal since your not filling your living space with smoke (when stoves burn they create a vacuum) I know it may be tough to wrap your head around this, but new stoves will not burn well at all with wood that has a moisture content of 22% or higher, ideally you want 18% average moisture content.

No, the original stove they put in was factory defective. The quote you pulled was from the previous stove. The air control lever on the bottom of the stove was not functioning and not letting air into the stove like it was supposed to. That is why I would have to leave the door cracked. I have a moisture meter. All my wood is at about 13-14%. That is even checked after I split it.