Hey Fellow Firies,
I've got a Travis Industries Large Flush Insert made by fireplace xtroidinaire that I have in pieces now for its yearly cleaning/maintenance. Ever since I bought this stove I've had a lot of trouble with it including a lot of warranty work done including replacing the Cat and the green start system about 5 times....its been broken now for about 5 months still and i just went and complained at my dealer yesterday, so hopefully it will get fixed again soon. Another problem I had off the get go was that the snap disc never worked very well. It took about an hour of burning hot until it would kick on the blowers and then it would cycle on/off as it cooled down. The installers said it was not making good enough contact with the bottom of the fireplace and they ended up jamming a penny in between the disc and the stove to keep better heat transfer. I have to give it to them, it stopped the cycling in the middle of the night which was driving me nuts, but it still takes an exorbitant amount of time to start the blowers.
RIght now one of my blowers bearing seems to be going out, so I have them out to clean them up and see if I can find the squeaky one. After examining the wiring to everything it seems like it would be no big deal to install a simple bypass switch to be able to bypass the snap disc entirely so I can start getting heat out of the blowers sooner than 30 minutes or so. I was thinking of connecting the two wires leading to the snap disc(upstream of the disc) to a simple radio shack switch drilled through the front plate. Can I get some agreement or dissent as to whether or not you all think that will work or if it is even a good idea in the first place?
I was thinking that I could bypass the disc with the switch(essentially connecting the leads) to get the blower going when I know it should be and then switching it back to the off position during mid-burn so that the blowers will shut down when the stove cools off again.
The other question is if you agree with my assessment of ease and functionality is what kind of switch should I buy? It seems to be bringing in a full 120v from the outlet because there isn't a transformer inline anywhere that I can see. However the wires seem to be pretty thin gauge, even thinner than normal 15A outlet copper. What say you?
I've got a Travis Industries Large Flush Insert made by fireplace xtroidinaire that I have in pieces now for its yearly cleaning/maintenance. Ever since I bought this stove I've had a lot of trouble with it including a lot of warranty work done including replacing the Cat and the green start system about 5 times....its been broken now for about 5 months still and i just went and complained at my dealer yesterday, so hopefully it will get fixed again soon. Another problem I had off the get go was that the snap disc never worked very well. It took about an hour of burning hot until it would kick on the blowers and then it would cycle on/off as it cooled down. The installers said it was not making good enough contact with the bottom of the fireplace and they ended up jamming a penny in between the disc and the stove to keep better heat transfer. I have to give it to them, it stopped the cycling in the middle of the night which was driving me nuts, but it still takes an exorbitant amount of time to start the blowers.
RIght now one of my blowers bearing seems to be going out, so I have them out to clean them up and see if I can find the squeaky one. After examining the wiring to everything it seems like it would be no big deal to install a simple bypass switch to be able to bypass the snap disc entirely so I can start getting heat out of the blowers sooner than 30 minutes or so. I was thinking of connecting the two wires leading to the snap disc(upstream of the disc) to a simple radio shack switch drilled through the front plate. Can I get some agreement or dissent as to whether or not you all think that will work or if it is even a good idea in the first place?
I was thinking that I could bypass the disc with the switch(essentially connecting the leads) to get the blower going when I know it should be and then switching it back to the off position during mid-burn so that the blowers will shut down when the stove cools off again.
The other question is if you agree with my assessment of ease and functionality is what kind of switch should I buy? It seems to be bringing in a full 120v from the outlet because there isn't a transformer inline anywhere that I can see. However the wires seem to be pretty thin gauge, even thinner than normal 15A outlet copper. What say you?
