So I Get Home From Work, Fire Off From The Coals, And We Go Thunk ...

[Dix]

Fan has kicked, it's up to 550F, and this is what I see in the PE. Caused the "thunk" ....



Yeah, I knew it was cracked, and yes they are ALL original. It's going down to 15F here in the hollow tonight (35F outside, and dropping, house is at 69F ).

Can I run it tonight, if even at a slow simmer, and regroup tomorrow night when I get home from work? I sure as hell can't take care of it now.

I tried. Ash under the bottom piece, and I can't hold up the top brick, move the bottom brick (with ash under it, I did not clean stove last night ), and shovel at the same time

Considering trying pumping the 13, but it'll be a hard start in the morning after 7- 8 hours. Can I limp in the PE and pump the 13?

 

[webby3650]

It won't hurt anything to burn it like it is on a short term basis.

 

[Dix]

It won't hurt anything to burn it like it is on a short term basis.

Thanks.
Just loaded 3 splits off of the kindling in the 13

 

[BrotherBart]

Pull the chunk out and rock and roll.

 

[Dix]

Pull the chunk out and rock and roll.

Really?
I thought it might be a cardinal sin or some such.

 

[webby3650]

Really?
I thought it might be a cardinal sin or some such.

Na, you're good to go. Just grab a new brick when you get a chance.

 

[Dix]

Gonna grab all of the bricks when I get a chance

 

[BrotherBart]

My last stove didn't even have bricks on the sides of the firebox. Burned in it for 21 years. They mostly provide insulation to maintain heat for combustion.

 

[BrotherBart]

Gonna grab all of the bricks when I get a chance

Remember that the PE stoves use pumice bricks, not the common ones at the stove or hardware stores.

 

[velvetfoot]

At the risk of starting a controversy, my stove dealer, who has a good rep, doesn't even sell the pumice bricks; just the standard heavy firebrick.

 

[jb6l6gc]

just keep a cpl handy, no need to replace all of them. One at a time as they go

 

[webby3650]

At the risk of starting a controversy, my stove dealer, who has a good rep, doesn't even sell the pumice bricks; just the standard heavy firebrick.

We don't stock them either. We either order them in or just replace them with standard brick, Depending on the stove and how particular the customer is. We order standard bricks by the skid.

 

[begreen]

At the risk of starting a controversy, my stove dealer, who has a good rep, doesn't even sell the pumice bricks; just the standard heavy firebrick.

Maybe because none of the stoves they sell use them? When our T6 bricks go I will replace them with pumice bricks. Hotter fire is cleaner.

 

[Hogwildz]

The bottom bricks usually last much longer, when the stove cools, just replace the side brick, with a bottom (floor) one, and put the broken one in place on the floor. Once it fill around with ash, you'll never know its there.

Also when the side and back bricks start getting beat up, spin them around and you'll have nice new surface to last a while longer.

 

[madison]

I have done what Hog has suggested above. When they were all getting ratty, I did put a couple of non pumice bricks around the front/center. For whatever reason, the pumice bricks around the ash chute and in the front center "delaminate" each year, unlike Hog's experience of the bottoms lasting longer than the sides.

I will get pumice-rock chunks that lift off when shoveling the ash out. The non pumice bricks did not break down like the pumice bricks.

This past season I replaced all with a full set of fresh pumice and noticed already the front centers have lost a good bit to "pumice chunks"

I will probably be switching to the heavier non pumice bricks for the front center floor area in the future.

Quite honestly I can not fathom how pumice bricks would affect anything other than reducing the shipping weight for the manufacturer.

 

[begreen]

In my conversations with stove makers these bricks are not used to save weight. They are typically added to premium stoves to help them burn cleaner. Pumice bricks are used on several stoves makes. They have a higher insulative value and keep the fire box hotter. Our bricks are now 8 seasons old and still looking pretty good. One rear one has a single crack thru it. I remember when that happened from me cramming a log in during a hot fire. My fault entirely. I'll rotate it to the bottom this summer.

 

[Jags]

Quite honestly I can not fathom how pumice bricks would affect anything other than reducing the shipping weight for the manufacturer.

There is a difference in the insulative and reflective value of the bricks. If it didn't matter, the MFG would surly use the cheaper bricks. So to me - it matters. YMMV.

BG won that race...

 

[madison]

Thanks for the info and clarification. I wonder why the pumice bricks in the front center of my T6 deteriorate? I have been burning 90% locust the past 5 yrs??

 

[Jags]

I wonder why the pumice bricks in the front center of my T6 deteriorate?

With enough heat - rocks burn.

 

[Dix]

OK, I got one out of the bottom, and replaced it with the cracked one... now, how do I get the one I took out of the bottom to fit in under the top rails holding up the baffle?

 

[Jags]

Break it in half...
(Sorry - couldn't resist )

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the info and clarification. I wonder why the pumice bricks in the front center of my T6 deteriorate? I have been burning 90% locust the past 5 yrs??

Boost air? Ours is blocked off at the ebt.
That and locusts is a hot fuel.

 

[Dix]

Break it in half...
(Sorry - couldn't resist )

Thanks, old buddy, old pal

 

[Dix]

Screw you guys, never help a buddy out

I had to get up and running for tonight

Up & running.....

I installed the cracked brick first, to make sure it would work, and I reversed it



Taking the door off gave me more wiggle room, but not enough to get the "solid" brick in there


My weapons of choice ....

 

[Hogwildz]

To replace the side brick, tilt the bottom out and angle the top in under the side tab of the baffle rail, slide up on and angle and inward at same time to set it in place.