So, What happened to my bar?

[Charles1981]

I am assuming the bar is ruined?

Not sure what happened other then I guess too much heat? I saw some smoke a few times going through some logs that were probably 25-26inch diameter that I had to attack from 2 different sides... I never let the bar oil go dry.

The lubrication system seems to be working just fine. I never really noticed any issues while sawing. I am assuming this happened over a 5-6 hour period while I was bucking about 4 cords of wood. The bar seems to be a little bowed as well.

Definitely going out to get a new bar. Just curious if anyone has seen this happen before.

Saw: Echo CS400 18inch

 

[BrotherBart]

The nose sprocket bearing has gone to meet its maker.

 

[ccmac]

You might try a Stihl bar. A friend told me that they make the best bars. Echo makes a great saw, easy to start and mine always runs so well, but I respect this man's opinion so if I ever have to change my bar I'll go with the Stihl.

 

[sportbikerider78]

I use WD40 to blow the crap out of the bearings on the nose sproket. Compressed air works well too.
I have an Echo as well and I have found that the exposed holes on the sides load up with sawdust and dirt and potentially prevent lubrication.

 

[claydogg84]

Is it possible you're running the chain too tight?

 

[Charles1981]

I doubt it. I always check the chain make sure I can pull the chain out about 1/2 cm.

Plus the oregon chains stretch so easily...

Unless something is happening while the saw is running and chain and bar are hot...

 

[DougA]

End sprocket shot.
I always do a quick check every gas tank.
Chain has the correct tension and it slides easily
Bar oil tank is nearly empty when the gas tank is empty. If the bar oil is not almost empty, then I have a problem.
Chain is sharp - I touch up every tankful or two.

Maybe it's me being cheap but I want to get the maximum out of my bars and chains. This wood cutting stuff can get too expensive if you don't watch it.
Gee, I saved $2,000. on my heating bill this winter and spent almost $5,000. doing it. Not cool.

 

[Charles1981]

I usually go through 2 chains a year At like 35$. Saw was 300. gone through about 30 cord in 3 years with the same bar... so overall havent put much into it... another bar and chain is like 40 @ home depot. Meh. I order log length and process it myself. Total cost of heating is about 500-600 a season including equipment and supplies cost.

 

[DougA]

Here's mine:
Used Equinox $2,300
New stove pipe & chimney $1,600
Hearth & wall material $850.
Inspection $250.
Material for wood sheds $500.
Fuel for everything $100.
Labor - found an old man that would do it for free (me)

 

[Oldman47]

That nose looks like it got very hot. Do you routinely lube it with a grease gun as you should? To me, the grease port looks empty in your pictures.

 

[BrotherBart]

For 40 years I haven't greased the nose sprocket of any of my saws. The bar on the 65cc 1991 saw is the original bar with at least a hundred cord under is belt and it doesn't look tired yet. If the bar oiler is working right there is plenty of lube in the end of that bar.

 

[Charles1981]

greasing the nose sprocket is news to me.

I always check the bar oil spray after every tank/refill. Spray it against the butt end of a buck and make sure it is spraying a nice line of bar oil...

I will look into lubing the sprocket in the future though.

But overall I agree that the tip of the bar does appear to have overheated quite a bit.

 

[Wildo]

Wow! That got hot enough th grease burned right out of it. If the tip is replaceable you can go that route, but a new bar is only $20 more.


Either never grease or always grease your choice but never do it "sometimes". On your next bar pick one or the other.

Whenever you flip the bar check how much play you have in the nose sprocket, if it moves more than a little you should replace the tip since the bearing is kaput.

 

[blacktail]

I always check the bar oil spray after every tank/refill. Spray it against the butt end of a buck and make sure it is spraying a nice line of bar oil...

While I am all for being cautious about equipment, the fact that the bar oil needs to be filled tells me it's oiling. Always fill bar oil when refueling.

 

[Charles1981]

Yea basically with my saw for every 1 tank of gas it goes through 3/4 tank of bar oil. So I do end up refilling the bar oil with every tank refill.

 

[CountryBoy19]

While I am all for being cautious about equipment, the fact that the bar oil needs to be filled tells me it's oiling. Always fill bar oil when refueling.

It doesn't tell you it's oiling the chain, it just tells you the oil is leaving the tank. Maybe your oiling system has sprung a leak and it's not making it to the chain. Spraying the tip against wood will tell you that oil is making it on the chain for certain.

 

[Jon1270]

While I am all for being cautious about equipment, the fact that the bar oil needs to be filled tells me it's oiling.

Not a good indicator. Leaks can occur between the pump and bar, so that oil is consumed but doesn't make it to its intended destination.

OP, can you post a close-up picture of the chain you were running on this damaged bar?

 

[Giles]

I ALWAYS grease the nose of the bar, when I sharpen chain. That's what the small holes are for. Yes it does get some oil from the bar groove but why would manufacturer have the hole and recommend it be used?
Never seen a Stihl bar with the hole.

 

[bioman]

If your saw is not upside down, then your chain is on backwards! that will heat em up.

 

[DougA]

If your saw is not upside down, then your chain is on backwards! that will heat em up.

Good eye. I missed that.

 

[BrotherBart]

I saw it but figure the saw is just laying on its left side.

 

[xman23]

I thought I read you could grease a Sthil nose bearing. But recently I saw a Sthil video that they were saying it wasn't necessary. I never greased mine and 15 years it's OK. I think the key to bar life is a sharp chain all the time. And of course bar oil.

 

[Hogwildz]

Where is the grease fitting?

 

[Oldman47]

Where is the grease fitting?

In the picture it is the little hole behind what looks like the nose sprocket bearing.

 

[Keener]

Charles1981, was the saw cutting "circles" through the big log. If the kerfs are curved and the bar end picks up the previous cut it will put an S bend in the bar if you are working it hard.
Looks like it might be a laminated bar and one side took most of the friction.