Splitter teeth/stabilizer needed, wood slipping when splitting

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

Jocko

Member
Jul 5, 2015
7
Monessen, Pennsylvania
I have a swisher 22ton gas splitter. It has a small 'tab' welded onto the end of the beam to keep the wood from slipping when splitting. Over the years it has worn down and is no longer effective. I am looking for 'teeth' of some type that can be welded in place on the end of the beam. Can anyone help me out or point me in the right direction as to where I can find them? Splitting is starting to become more and more dangerous without something to keep the wood from sliding all over.

Thanks in advance!
 
If you have a stick welder just run a bead in an X pattern
corner to corner That's what I did with mine and it works good
 
The previous owner of my splitter welded crosshairs on a bullseye and it works great.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TreePointer
Yup, just get someone to weld an x. Do an internet search for other splitter images if you need some ideas. If the weld isn't sharp enough, you could grind the edges down a bit to make a stronger edge to hold the wood.
 
I welded a cpl 5/8 3/4" ish nuts on mine.
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Splitter teeth/stabilizer needed, wood slipping when splitting
    101_0607.webp
    213.8 KB · Views: 242
  • Like
Reactions: jaoneill
Key stock or square nuts or whatever is handy

I've seen people drill and tap and thread a setscrew in from the side opposite the wedge and let it protrude about a half an inch or so out on the wedge side of the plate and then sharpen those to a point. Seems like it would work well but seems like a lot of work

Pieces of flat bar with gaps between work well
Make the flat bars thick enough so the tip of the wedge goes past the flat bars. This eliminates the gap at the end. It works much better on stringy wood where the last gap is not cut by the wedge

Cross-section short pieces of angle iron about a half inch long provide a V shape and seem to work OK

Short pieces of square tubing or pipe do NOT work well. They bite well but the closed cross-section fills up with wood bits jammed in there
 
  • Like
Reactions: TreePointer
Status
Not open for further replies.