Stainless steel chimney crown cover

fire_man Posted By fire_man, Jul 1, 2018 at 5:50 PM

  1. fire_man

    fire_man
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    Guys you have both been super helpful. I appreciate it.

    I would love to do as bholler says and rip out the old crown and pour a new slab but I think I am getting into too much.
     
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  2. bholler

    bholler
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    And what blazing proposed will work just fine. And it will look ok as long as you keep things in proportion. It isnt how i would do it but that doesnt make it wrong by any means.
     
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  3. fire_man

    fire_man
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    So if I brick up one course and top it with angle iron and 1/2" hardy backer, would a 3" skirt be about right?
     
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  4. bholler

    bholler
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    3" would look pretty small on your chimney. 4 to 4.5 would be best
     
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  5. fire_man

    fire_man
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    If my crown rolls off by 2.5" from peak to brick, is it best to brick up one course and top it off with Hardy board so the chase cover lies flat?

    With a 4.5" skirt I would not need to add brick i don't think. But I like the idea of having a nice flat top for the cover to sit on.
     
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  6. bholler

    bholler
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    I would prefer a flat surface
     
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  7. fire_man

    fire_man
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    Agreed. Thanks.
     
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  8. fire_man

    fire_man
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    The angle iron that supports the existing crown forces the second and third row of bricks to be corbelled out.
    I plan to change it so that the top 4 courses corble out (the old 3 top courses and the new top course).

    Aesthetically I don't see a problem but wanted to throw it out there.
     
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  9. Blazingembers7749

    Blazingembers7749
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    There are literally about a 1000 different ways to do this. If you have access to a metal saw you could very easily buy a piece of 10 gauge or 3/16 hot rolled plate steel and instead of using hardy board cut the steel sheet and use it. Guarantee you wont need support for that. If u use a cold cut metal saw cutting a piece that big will take you double the time it would take to cut a piece of 3/4" plywood the same size so like 3 minutes max. Just throwing ideas out there. U could drill a hole thru it and connect a hook the pull it up with a rope as it will be probably 60lbs.
     
  10. Blazingembers7749

    Blazingembers7749
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    U may even be able to get a similar sized sheet or have it cut by the metal supply for u at a couple bucks per cut. I would guess around $120
     
  11. fire_man

    fire_man
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    I just checked an online store and 10 gauge in my size is pretty pricey - like $400 before shipping.
    The hardybacker seems pretty simple and cost effective and I already have 2 sheets.
     
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  12. Blazingembers7749

    Blazingembers7749
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    This is 3/16 you could probably park a honda civic on it at the size you need and it wouldnt fold
     

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  13. Blazingembers7749

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  14. Blazingembers7749

    Blazingembers7749
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    I understand the backer board is better for u. That online site is crazy high. I just bout acouple sheets of 3/16 and they were 4 by 8 for $190. I also just bought a piece of 11 guage for a filler panel i made for a install i did today it was $130.00. For a 4 by 8 sheet. But regardless point taken. Angle iron and backer board is definitely inexpesive.
     
  15. fire_man

    fire_man
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    And pretty easy to work with which is good. It was a great idea!
     
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  16. Blazingembers7749

    Blazingembers7749
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    Regarding your child. son or daughter? Gotta be super proud... thank them for their service.
     
  17. fire_man

    fire_man
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    Thank you! I am super proud of my son! We see him tomorrow for the first time since Christmas.
    I will pass your kind words along.
     
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  18. fire_man

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    I called Rockford today about mounting the chase cover to my extremely uneven and large 6x3 crown. They said the Hardibacker was not really needed and it only requires support under where the liner gets mounted/clamped thru the flue hole. That's where the stress on the cover is since the liner will be pulling it down at the flue mount. I may want to consider a shim in that area and also possiibly at the brick perimeter to help level/support it before mounting.

    They also said its made to slope about 3/8" from flue opening to the furthest edge. That tells me most of the hardibacker would not be touching the cover anyway. If I'm missing something I'm all ears.

    I still plan to add one course of brick tto the chimney height to reduce how deep a skirt i will need. I am shooting for 4 to 4.5".
     
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  19. Blazingembers7749

    Blazingembers7749
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    On prefab chimneys its usually being mounted to flat plywood. The ones from olympia have a slight slope and are cross broke. Usually with the flat surface you can adhere with silicone or whatever your poison without the need for screws the slope on all the one i have done is not drastic enough that only the edges are touching the adhesive in my experience
     
  20. Blazingembers7749

    Blazingembers7749
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    But if your unsure i would jutlst wait for it to come in and make a decision at that time
     
  21. Blazingembers7749

    Blazingembers7749
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    Im putting one on toorow if u want me to take a picture
     
  22. fire_man

    fire_man
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    The Rockford one also has cross seams to strengthen it. I could not find any info on the Olympia covers on their website. Evidently they only talk to installers.

    I know someone who could help me with the purchase an olympia but Rockford has been super super helpful and they have 20 gauge stainless.
     
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  23. Blazingembers7749

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    I would also support the pipe before you put the chase cap on if you can as to not put pressure on the chase cap itself
     
  24. fire_man

    fire_man
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    That would be fantastic!!! Thanks Blazingmembers!
     
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  25. fire_man

    fire_man
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    Can you please expand on that - how would pressure end up on the chase cap if the liner is not supported first? I thought the chase cap bears the weight of the liner after its clamped and that I just had to be sure there was support under the chase cap where the liner passes through?

    My liner is a heavy rigid liner.
     
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