Stihl 026 Pro

[NH_Wood]

Hey guys,

Bought a couple saws today. An MS250C (see my other very lame post - blasted easy starts), and an MS260 Pro (sorry, made a mistake on the title - it's not an 026). My question is on the 260 Pro. Picked up the saw for $180. It's in very good shape - starts real easy and seems to scream. What do you think I could get for the saw if I tried to flip it? Cheers!

 

[MasterMech]

(sorry, made a mistake on the title - it's not an 026).​

Close enough.

What do you think I could get for the saw if I tried to flip it?​

Why on earth would you do that? I'd be putting the others saws you have (the 025 and MS250C, maybe even the 018) up for sale and keeping the MS260 Pro to complement the 039 you have. Then you have to decide if you like the MS260 or the Dolmar 510 better.

FWIW: Clean MS260 Pro should fetch $250-$300+ quickly depending on cosmetic condition. Saws in exceptional condition will go for a bit more.

 

[NH_Wood]

Hmmmm........good thought. I'm definitely selling the MS025C, but maybe better to also sell the 025 and keep the MS260. The 018 is currently in a pile of parts! I needed to get to the oiler (wouldn't oil), and I don't have time to put back together. I think I sell off the parts. I haven't even had a chance to try the MS260 yet, just ran it to make sure it was running well. I guess I should give it a go and see if I should add it to my keepers. I really like my Dolmar, I don't think I could part with her! Thanks MM! Cheers!

 

[loadstarken]

I just picked up a 026 and I was going to comment on it but looks like MasterMech pretty much summed it up.
It is a great saw and rips thru the wood!

I kind of want to buy another just because. Hehe

 

[StihlHead]

Watch out, or you will wind up with three like I have now, or even six 260/026s as I had at one time. Two 026s are better than one!

To the OP: $180 and I would have likely bought the 260 pro. There is a 260 with a broken starter up in WA state for $75 on CL that I would buy in a heartbeat but it is too far in gas money. Same as the 361 for $325 up there last week. You could probably flip the 260 pro for $250-275 here. They (the 026/260s) do not command the same premium that other Stihl pro saws do, and are a value. The non-pro 026/260 is still a pro saw, BTW. Just has no decomp (not really needed on a 50cc saw) and no adj. oiler. The rest of the saw is exactly the same.

Wish I had 4 years of wood piled up here. I have... about 1.5 years here in the stacks now. 3 years is my goal. More than that and it is likely to rot in all this wet.

 

[loadstarken]

Watch out, or you will wind up with three like I have now, or even six 260/026s as I had at one time. Two 026s are better than one!

Yeah I already have the obsessive compulsive traits. . . . Like when I bought 8 trucks in Texas from a picture. Hehe

To the O.P. there's nothing wrong with keeping both saws! Haha am I helping?

 

[HittinSteel]

I would imagine mine would have sold for $275 without the woods port. It was in very good condition.

 

[wvredxj]

i have the stihl ms260 and bought it used on ebay for around 350-400 if i remember correctly. I absolutely love the saw. It is my go to saw for small/medium cutting.

 

[Danno77]

I'll give you what you paid PLUS shipping for the 026 pro and you can save yourself hours trying to decide about it's fate, or messing with it one second longer. Heck, keep the bar and chain so it's cheaper to ship.

 

[NH_Wood]

I'll give you what you paid PLUS shipping for the 026 pro and you can save yourself hours trying to decide about it's fate, or messing with it one second longer. Heck, keep the bar and chain so it's cheaper to ship.

Ha! It's on ebay now......some folks watching it, but we'll see how it does. If it doesn't sell..............not!

 

[mikefrommaine]

Well how about a link to the listing?

 

[Danno77]

Ha! It's on ebay now......some folks watching it, but we'll see how it does. If it doesn't sell..............not!

315 starting price? I hate it when people know what their stuff is worth.

 

[xman23]

Question for the Stilhl guys
I've had a 260 pro for 10 years. Love the saw, not to big not to small. Great for the stuff I cut.

So what's the difference between the 260, 260 pro and the 026?

 

[Danno77]

That depends. The 026 came in different configs during its time, so even it isn't a good descriptor of anything in particular.

I don't know that there was much difference between the 260 and the 260 pro. Compression release on the pro, but where pro models often have metal starter covers for durability, the 260 pro did not. I've seen 026s with the composite/plastic handles, and also with the aluminum handles. The 260s (pro or not) were all plastic handles. The 026 and 260s have different P&Cs, too, IIRC, but it's pretty minimal in overall CCs. You can surely find those specs on acresinternet if you want specifics. In fact, that would be a good place to find out more reliable information than what I THINK I know, lol.

 

[HittinSteel]

There is an adjustable oiler on the pro.....the oiler also only runs when the chain is turning.

 

[NH_Wood]

Well how about a link to the listing?

Here you go. This is my first go around with ebay - so we'll see! If you guys have any advice on using the site to sell saws, pass it along! Cheers!

(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-MS260Pro-Chainsaw-/300851002303?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item460c1dfbbf)

 

[mikefrommaine]

Your lack of a feedback as a new seller would make me hesitant to bid if I was in the market.

And no reserve low starting bid auctions seem to bring more in the end. If I had seen that listing I probably would have passed right over it. But if it was .99 I might have bid for the heck of it. Knowing I wasnt going to win unless I got lucky.

Once you get enough people bidding the price goes up quick, stalls for a while and then as people get caught up in emotion at the end pay more than I would.

Just need to get enough people bidding.

 

[StihlHead]

Yah, I have found that a high start point gets less money on Ebay in the end. Start low and suck them into bidding on the saw. You also have to pay listing fees, sales fees and Paypal fees on Ebay. I prefer to list them on CL and sell them for cash-o-la.

 

[Boog]

................................If you guys have any advice on using the site to sell saws, pass it along! Cheers!

I'm selling 3 saws on CL at the moment. I made short videos of me showing the saws, telling what I did with them, cutting some tough oak with them, and put them up on youtube (search for "Boog's Stihl Chainsaw"). I do not discuss selling them at all in the videos, rather just showing off the saws I CAD'ed and how they run now. However, I put links to the videos in my CL ads.

 

[NH_Wood]

This is all interesting. Again, I'm brand new to the ebay deal. I didn't think I could do the 'no reserve' thing, because I was worried that I might not get back the $ I paid for the saws - I bought them to flip, since I got a good deal. I was only aware of a 9% (I believe) charge for the sale - seems hard to find the info on what all the charges are - should have probably found out before trying! This is mainly a fun thing to do right now - I love saws, like getting a new one, checking it out, trying it out, and then possibly resell. Saws have become a hobby - I don't care about making much - a little extra cash is just fine. We'll see how the bidding goes! I had a pretty fast bid on the MS250C, but no bites on the MS260Pro - I thought it would be just the opposite. But, perhaps I priced the MS250C better (I didn't think so). Cheers!

P.S. I like the video idea - I wonder if you can post a video on ebay? Probably for $ if you can.

 

[StihlHead]

So what's the difference between the 260, 260 pro and the 026?

The difference between the 260 and the 260 pro is that the pro model has the adjustable oiler and a decomp start button on top. O/w they are exactly the same. The non-pro oiler will oil up to a 20 inch bar just fine, but they oil at idle and they tend to gush.

The main difference between the later model 026 and 260 is that the 260 has a slightly larger piston & cylinder diameter (but the rods are the same and the P&C can be swapped in pairs to either saw with zero modification needed). And like most Stihl saws, the MS260 has the flippy caps for oil and gas, whereas the 026 has the screw in caps. I prefer the screw in caps myself.

Over the years the 026 has evolved. Early model 026s had aluminum top handles that were later made of a composite. Earlier 026 models had riveted name plates and later ones are press-on glue ones. I forget which way they went, but there are some metal and some plastic starter covers on the 026s, and three types in all but they are all swappable between models. There have been several different carbs on the 026 and 260 line. The better ones are the early fully tunable Walbro carbs. The mid to later 026 saws came with a fixed jet H carb (they suck and cannot be tuned richer than factory). The later 026 and 260 saws have a larger air filter and a different gas tank vent cap system. The early model 026s have a smaller air filter and a small tower tank vent. The back air filter covers also have slight differences, depending on the air filter that they snap onto. Some 026s have a clear gas tank and others are opaque white. I have never seen any particular 026 model that was designated with a clear gas tank, and they seem to be random. Some early 026s have a red master lever and the later ones are black. The mufflers have changed quite a lot over time. The early ones are empty in the muffler section and the covers are ported pretty wide open. The cover ports were made smaller over time and the later model 026/260s have a choked up baffle inside the muffler section as well. They can all be swapped out with the early mufflers, or gutted and drilled open to match them. The later 026 and 260 saws also have the limiter tabs on the H and L carb screws like other Stihl saws.

 

[StihlHead]

Here you go. This is my first go around with ebay - so we'll see! If you guys have any advice on using the site to sell saws, pass it along! Cheers!

(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-MS260Pro-Chainsaw-/300851002303?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item460c1dfbbf)

Several words of advice: I post my stuff on Eaby with returns allowed. Anyone can return an item if paid for with Paypal, and you have to allow them to pay with Paypal on Ebay these days (now that they own them). I gives buyers more assurance, and I have never had an item returned. I have forced people to refund my money paid by Paypal though, after filing disputes that the products were not as advertised. Even if they list them as no returns or refunds, they have to accept returns if paid with Paypal. Also if you pay by CC, all you have to do is return the product to the seller, and the CC company will refund your money. End of story.

Another reason to post lower on Ebay is that the listing fees are based on the starting price. So it is cheaper to start lower. Also as I said above the more people you get involved earlier on, the more likely your bids will be higher in the end. You can also start at 1 cent and use a reserve price. If the reserve is not met, the item will not sell unless you want it to. Reserve and starting prices are different.

You may get dinged on shipping if you ship the B&C separately. I use Priority 'if it fits it ships' as much as I can, as the postage is the same wherever you send them in the US. I use variable rate shipping otherwise, and the postage varies depending on the distance being shipped. I always offer parcel post as a shipping option, to keep their shipping costs down unless it fits into a $4 priority mailing box. The buyer pays the shipping, so give them options. I never ship out the of the US; Canada postage can be a PITA and EU shipping often times vaporizes (especially to southern Europe). NZ and Oz are Ok to ship to though. Never had a problem shipping to either of them.

 

[NH_Wood]

Several words of advice: I post my stuff on Eaby with returns allowed. Anyone can return an item if paid for with Paypal, and you have to allow them to pay with Paypal on Ebay these days (now that they own them). I gives buyers more assurance, and I have never had an item returned. I have forced people to refund my money paid by Paypal though, after filing disputes that the products were not as advertised. Even if they list them as no returns or refunds, they have to accept returns if paid with Paypal. Also if you pay by CC, all you have to do is return the product to the seller, and the CC company will refund your money. End of story.

Another reason to post lower on Ebay is that the listing fees are based on the starting price. So it is cheaper to start lower. Also as I said above the more people you get involved earlier on, the more likely your bids will be higher in the end. You can also start at 1 cent and use a reserve price. If the reserve is not met, the item will not sell unless you want it to. Reserve and starting prices are different.

You may get dinged on shipping if you ship the B&C separately. I use Priority 'if it fits it ships' as much as I can, as the postage is the same wherever you send them in the US. I use variable rate shipping otherwise, and the postage varies depending on the distance being shipped. I always offer parcel post as a shipping option, to keep their shipping costs down unless it fits into a $4 priority mailing box. The buyer pays the shipping, so give them options. I never ship out the of the US; Canada postage can be a PITA and EU shipping often times vaporizes (especially to southern Europe). NZ and Oz are Ok to ship to though. Never had a problem shipping to either of them.

You have a good amount of experience to share - I'm at such a 'novice' state, that I'm not sure what some of this means - I'll be researching it though - thanks for the info! Now it seems even harder to find this kind of plain description on ebay! Cheers!

 

[MasterMech]

Main thing with any auction is to get as much interest/bids on the saw as possible. That way, hopefully, the buyers get in a bit of a "bidding war" or just caught up in the excitement. Either way, the price keeps going up, up, up. Often times you won't get many bids until the last 10 minutes of an auction as all the "snipers" get in on the action. Only amatuers bid early and high.

That listing desperately needs pictures! Views from many sides/angles, in good light (your picture on there is very good) with covers/muffler removed, etc. Before shelling out top dollar, buyers are going to want to be reasonably confident that they are getting a mint saw. A compression gauge shot would be a good one too.

 

[NH_Wood]

Main thing with any auction is to get as much interest/bids on the saw as possible. That way, hopefully, the buyers get in a bit of a "bidding war" or just caught up in the excitement. Either way, the price keeps going up, up, up. Often times you won't get many bids until the last 10 minutes of an auction as all the "snipers" get in on the action. Only amatuers bid early and high.

That listing desperately needs pictures! Views from many sides/angles, in good light (your picture on there is very good) with covers/muffler removed, etc. Before shelling out top dollar, buyers are going to want to be reasonably confident that they are getting a mint saw. A compression gauge shot would be a good one too.

Good ideas MM - I couldn't seem to find out how much extra photos cost to post, so I only posted the 'free' photo. Ebay seems tough to figure out in terms of these simple things - I probably should have taken some time to really dive into the site. If it doesn't sell, I'll relist with more pics - I'm sure I'll find out how much it costs then! Thanks! Cheers!