i have a stihl ms 250 chainsaw that will start and run fine for a min or two and shuts off and wont start . anyone having this trouble
I don't think anyone suggested the cap was the problem but loosening the cap is the quickest way to check for plugged vent. Much easier than pulling the line.MasterMech said:Gas cap on these saws isn't vented so it's seldom the problem. There is a tank vent attached via a line to a check valve near the air filter. Pull the line and re-test the saw.
LLigetfa said:I don't think anyone suggested the cap was the problem but loosening the cap is the quickest way to check for plugged vent. Much easier than pulling the line.MasterMech said:Gas cap on these saws isn't vented so it's seldom the problem. There is a tank vent attached via a line to a check valve near the air filter. Pull the line and re-test the saw.
He doesn't need to buck up a cord of wood with the cap loose, just see if it recovers while stalling or to hear the telltale sound of releasing a vacuum.MasterMech said:Loosening the cap and re-running the saw to test is a good way to get pants that smell like premix.
+1. I'd lean more towards the coil, though.Den69RS96 said:My guess is either a plugged vent or a bad coil
Most are pretty easy, take a piece of wire, make a small hook at the end, fish the line out, but don't pull on the hose too hard. Then pull the filter straight off and put the new one on, then stuff the filter back in...Grannyknot said:Has anyone ever changed the in-tank fuel pickup filter in one of these?
I have an old 024 that I'm thinking could use this, but not sure how to access it for service.
Danno77 said:Most are pretty easy, take a piece of wire, make a small hook at the end, fish the line out, but don't pull on the hose too hard. Then pull the filter straight off and put the new one on, then stuff the filter back in...Grannyknot said:Has anyone ever changed the in-tank fuel pickup filter in one of these?
I have an old 024 that I'm thinking could use this, but not sure how to access it for service.
StihlHead said:I have owned maybe a dozen of the Stihl 021/023/025/210/230/250 saws. The typical reason that these saws fail like the OP here is a crack in the impulse line. That runs from a nipple at the base of the engine block to a stub behind the carb input. It drives the tiny fuel pump in the carburator. Any air leak in the impulse line and the carb will starve for gas, as if there is a crack in the gas line (which is also a common failure in any Stihl saws after a couple of years) or a clogged fuel filter. This problem can also be due to more subtle things, like a clogged muffler screen, or a clogged air filter. It is rare that the coils fail; when they go they go and they do not start at all. Spark plugs fail over time, but the saw starting and then not running is more typical of a gas or impulse line problem, or a clogged air filer or muffler screen. It can also be a really badly tuned carb (L screw set way off or idle set too low).
Pull the muffler cover plate and check that the spark screen is not clogged up (I have had that happen, especially when I was using Castrol FB premix oil). If it is clogged up twist the screen to unclog it. I recommend running a 100% synthetic premix oil (rated JASO FC or FD) to avoid clogging the muffler screens and they run better on that stuff. Clean the air filter after use. As others have said here, fish the gas filter out of the tank with a metal wire hook (old coathanger wire workd good for this). If it is clogged up replace it. They are cheap. Typically they are not clogged enough to stop a saw though, unless you have dust in the tank or it is really old. Look for small hairline cracks in the gas line. Typically when gas lines crack Stihl saws do not start at all though. Also replaceable for fairly cheap, and if you replace a gas line replace the filter at the same time. If it is the impusle line... they can be a PITA to replace. You can get to them behind the coil/flywheel with needlenose pliars if you know where it is and where they connect to. Nimble fingers help here. I have done it a few times of several Stihl saws, and have loaded the air with lots of choice words doing them. They can come loose as well and be nudged back in place with your tank filter puller/coathanger wire tool.
BTW: I picked up a Stigl MS 211 for a friend in New Zealand recently and they are nice little saws. More power than a 210 and lighter, and far less vibration. With a picco bar and chain they are a geally nice limbing saw. Actually I dropped an 18 inch DBH birch tree here with it and cut it into firewood in an afternoon. I plan on replacing my 025 with it soon (I have the 026s which I use far more than the 025 anyway).
Den69RS96 said:I agree with Stihlhead except for the part about coils. A bad coil doesn't necessarily mean the saw will not start. A bad coil will become apparant once the saw is warmed up and then it will just quit running and won't start again until the saw has cooled down. In this situation, 9 out of 10 times the coil was the problem.
The OP mentioned one minute or two, not hours. Hard to imagine a coil could heat up in that short a time.StihlHead said:Den69RS96 said:I agree with Stihlhead except for the part about coils. A bad coil doesn't necessarily mean the saw will not start. A bad coil will become apparant once the saw is warmed up and then it will just quit running and won't start again until the saw has cooled down. In this situation, 9 out of 10 times the coil was the problem.
I have had those symptoms in a 210 and a 250/025 hybrid that I Frankenstiened, as well as an older 026 that I still have. They ran fine until they got really hot after an hour or so of use and then they did not want to start...
the bull said:i have a stihl ms 250 chainsaw that will start and run fine for a min or two and shuts off and wont start . anyone having this trouble
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