Stone Veneer Clearances

[Heftiger]

I'm looking at refinishing my brick hearth with some stone veneer. I'm wondering what the clearances will need to be. The stove is a BK Ashford 30.1 with fan kit. There is going to be only an inch or 2 space behind the stove after the veneer is installed. Does this material qualify as being non combustible?

http://media.wix.com/ugd/3cb45d_da72e26752d24442b508c1acd2790b2d.pdf

Thanks for the help.

 

[begreen]

It looks like this product is made of polyurethane which would be combustible.
"Due to the inherent manufacturing characteristics of polyurethane, and the In Mold coating coloring process of our product.."

 

[Heftiger]

It looks like this product is made of polyurethane which would be combustible.
"Due to the inherent manufacturing characteristics of polyurethane, and the In Mold coating coloring process of our product.."

Ahh. Good catch. These manufacturers seem to use the word "stone" loosely. Sometimes they'll say faux, but not always.

What I was really looking for was a stone product that came in sheets so it would be easier to apply; I'm not sure if they make that. If the product was truly stone, would there be any clearance issues?

 

[Heftiger]

So here's another option. This is "manufactured stone", however you define that. In the FAQ it says this, which leads me to believe it would be a good fit.

Is Eldorado Stone combustible?

No. Eldorado Stone's listing by Underwriter's Laboratories shows zero fuel contributed and zero smoke developed. It can be installed as a façade to fireplaces and behind stoves. It is recommended the product is at least 18" from any direct flame.

 

[begreen]

It looks like it's fire rating is non-combustible. Not sure what it's made from. Cement?

 

[sportbikerider78]

Most of those manufactured stone veneers are a painted cement. Which sucks if you chip it.

Check around with your local masons. You may find that the fake stone veneers aren't that much cheaper than real stone veneers. I used a carbon colored blue slate for my stone veneer and it was about $6.50 -7.50 sqft. If you're not doing a huge section, the savings can be really minimal.

 

[Highbeam]

We don't use faux stone veneers just because they're cheaper but also because they are lighter weight, thinner, easier to set, and are manufactured to "fit" together.

If nothing about the veneer is combustible than it does not affect your clearance to combustible requirement. Now there is some funny mojo with a blaze king. Seems the proximity of the stove to the backwall can have an effect on the operation of the thermostat. It is not designed to be slammed up against a wall. Is 2" too close? I don't know but I bet @BKVP can comment on it.

 

[bholler]

We don't use faux stone veneers just because they're cheaper but also because they are lighter weight, thinner, easier to set, and are manufactured to "fit" together.

We pretty regularly use real stone that is cut to be a veneer it is no heavier than the cement stuff and looks allot better. Yes it takes a little more artistic ability to set it but it is not much harder at all and you have the benefit of being able to cut it and not see raw concrete edges

 

[Dobish]

i used this stuff: http://www.homedepot.com/p/MS-Inter...ll-Tile-4-sq-ft-case-LPNLSCALGLD624/202902386

It was easy to lay up, and was natural stone... i bought a pallet of it on sale too, so price wasn't bad.

 

[Hogwildz]

I am thinking go using that same stuff to cover the ugly arse brick around my insert.

 

[Dieselhead]

It's a nice product!

 

[Hogwildz]

It's a nice product!

Can you share some photos? Is it veneer or real stone? It is panalized isn't it?

 

[webby3650]

I covered the ugly old brick on my fireplace with cultured stone veneer. It was a fun project. The worst part was going back to mortar in between the stones. It looks way better that dry stack veneer though.

 

[Dieselhead]

It's real stone, cut thin. Held together with a thin mesh on the back.

 

[Hogwildz]

Looks great! I think I may just cover the brick fireplace wall with that. Was looking at that same color when I saw it online. Looks really nice.

 

[Jeffm1]

Can you share some photos? Is it veneer or real stone? It is panalized isn't it?

Yup. That's the stuff I used. Real stone. Cut and assembled into panels, I think in china if I remember correctly.

 

[gusguy]

Bringing this back to the top. So the MSI veneers are non-combustable? They would be fine to close in my pe fp30 project? The price is very appealing compared to the faux field stone I was going to use.

 

[Ashful]

Now there is some funny mojo with a blaze king. Seems the proximity of the stove to the backwall can have an effect on the operation of the thermostat. It is not designed to be slammed up against a wall. Is 2" too close? I don't know but I bet @BKVP can comment on it.

Im not BKVP, but I did discuss this very issue with him, when I did my installs. There is a minimum recommended in the manual, and while I don't remember that number, he said he would not go any closer than 4" on the rear to a non-combustible (stone) surface. Any tighter than 4", and the thermostat will do screwy things.

 

[Highbeam]

Bringing this back to the top. So the MSI veneers are non-combustable? They would be fine to close in my pe fp30 project? The price is very appealing compared to the faux field stone I was going to use.

So if that mesh material that the little veneer stone is attached to is made of something like plastic then that will be your first combustible. If a metal lathe type mesh then not.

 

[Dobish]

So if that mesh material that the little veneer stone is attached to is made of something like plastic then that will be your first combustible. If a metal lathe type mesh then not.

it is some sort of epoxy that is in between the stones. I haven't caught mine on fire yet, but i'm a little further away. You can cut the plastic out and put each piece in there. The epoxy does only end up on the back side, so it is 1.5" of stone in front of it.

 

[gusguy]

I'm looking for something I can install on durock that is enclosing a pe fp30. It has to be non combustable to keep the clearance on the face of my chase. Would the epoxy be considered a combustable?

 

[begreen]

Usually latex modified thinset works well.

 

[gusguy]

I'm wondering if the epoxy that bonds the individual pieces to each other would be considered a combustable. I know I'll be using thinset to adhere the panel to the durock. I just want to make sure the panels themselves are rated as non combustable.

 

[begreen]

Should be but when in doubt contact the manufacturer.

 

[Gwynthie]

I hope I am over-thinking this....but I'm afraid I'm not. If anyone could provide some feedback and suggestions about the safety of using plastic-coated fiberglass mesh behind stone veneer, I'd greatly appreciate it.

After several years of refining our plans, we finally got our fireplace to wood stove conversion underway. The chimney guys put a new liner in our old fireplace chimney. We removed the old wood mantle and built a new wall with metal studs and cement board. We also raised all our floors with plywood, duroc, and micore so the hearth would be flush.

We've gone from this...

New Hearth Outline

• Gwynthie
• Jan 7, 2018

The orange tape shows where the stove will sit and the outline for the new hearth. We plan to...

to this.....


When the tile company put down our travertine floor tiles, we realized they used permanent plastic levelers under the tiles in the hearth area. So we had them remove the tiles and reset them without the plastic discs. We had already made sure that the mastic was thinnest, and that
neither the duroc nor mastic had combustible fillers.

So far so good. Right? We are almost there. The mover is coming tomorrow to install the stove. But, now I'm not so sure.

Yesterday, when my husband and I were looking at the stove to pipe connection, I realized that the chimney pipe was awfully close to the stacked stone veneer. We knew the tiler hadn't removed the plastic mesh when installing the stacked stone. (Although we had told him everything had to be non-combustible.) But we figured it would be OK, because we will have a rear-heat shield on the stove and the required 6" clearance. But we hadn't taken into account the pipe! Ugh!

I'm so upset. I'm afraid we may need to remove the stone veneer and re-bed new ones after removing the plastic mesh.

Here's what it looks like at the pipe.
There's about a 1-2 airspace above the pipe, then a horizontal stone tile with no plastic. Above the horizontal tile is the cement board wall with the stone veneer. The plastic mesh is sealed between the cement board and tile in thinnest. We planned to put grout between the stacked stone cracks.



The decorative ring still needs to be cut across the top. Then the metal will get pushed back, so it's reset into the opening. I was also planning on painting all the metal with a high-temp paint that matches the stove.

Sorry this is so long. I'm just really worried. What would you do if it were your installation?

Thanks!