Storage/Parking Structure Plans

[SpaceBus]

I assumed this would be much easier, but does anyone know where I can find someone that can design a storage building for me? A while back I found a guy on Etsy who made custom plans, but I can't find them now. I want to build an intersecting gable roof that will look like a cross from above with the long section extending beyond the building footprint to become a carport, the walled in part will be a 10'x12' potting/tool shed. At this point in my life I'm not confident in my abilities to properly engineer/design this properly, but I sure can follow instructions!

 

[brenndatomu]

I assumed this would be much easier, but does anyone know where I can find someone that can design a storage building for me? A while back I found a guy on Etsy who made custom plans, but I can't find them now. I want to build an intersecting gable roof that will look like a cross from above with the long section extending beyond the building footprint to become a carport, the walled in part will be a 10'x12' potting/tool shed. At this point in my life I'm not confident in my abilities to properly engineer/design this properly, but I sure can follow instructions!

I don't even know what/who Etsy is...other than that little spider that crawls up the water spout in the kids song...
You'd probably have to find a guy that really knows his system, but around here the lumber yards can often do a design and material list for you on stuff like that...pretty sure its free too...at least as long as you buy your materials from them...

 

[SpaceBus]

I don't even know what/who Etsy is...other than that little spider that crawls up the water spout in the kids song...
You'd probably have to find a guy that really knows his system, but around here the lumber yards can often do a design and material list for you on stuff like that...pretty sure its free too...at least as long as you buy your materials from them...

I'll be supplying the lumber myself. Probably going to build in late fall or winter after the rain has stopped. Perhaps I'll be copying some photos on the internet. We really want to build it post and beam style with the metal brackets, but platform frame style would probably be easier for me to replicate safely, and probably cheaper too. I also don't want to use a slab or continuous poured footer. Instead my plan is to set 8x8" posts 7'+ into the ground and setting the sill plates on those or use the posts to hold up the roof entire if we go post and beam style.

 

[brenndatomu]

I think there are a couple engineers on the board here...may not be around much in the summer though...

 

[zrock]

You would be better off to use sono tubs and concrete or screw piles for your sill plate.. You will have to check your local building code to see if they will even allow wood as a footer like that due to rot. 7ft is a little over kill our area is only 4' to get below frost line and then a few inches above ground to keep the water away from the wood..

 

[SpaceBus]

You would be better off to use sono tubs and concrete or screw piles for your sill plate.. You will have to check your local building code to see if they will even allow wood as a footer like that due to rot. 7ft is a little over kill our area is only 4' to get below frost line and then a few inches above ground to keep the water away from the wood..

I may use sonotubes if we do a platform frame, but this structure will not require a permit. Well drained gravel back fill with the appropriate rot resistant posts (Tamarack, Cypress, Cedar, etc) will last the rest of my life, probably even longer since there will be very long overhangs preventing most water from getting to the posts at all. I'm really trying to avoid using much if any concrete. I know for a permitted code approved building I would have to use concrete to backfill for the post, but based on my research and anecdotal evidence from folks in New England the concrete will cause the post to rot before clean gravel will. There's a 40' untreated cedar pole buried next to the driveway over 40 years ago in clay that still hasn't fallen over, but it does have some rot at the bottom. If the post had even rudimentary rain protection and gravel backfill it probably wouldn't have even rotted at all. Needless to say we had a new pole placed, but I haven't gotten the old one down yet.

While usually 4' is enough here as well, but the USGS surveys say that 6' is the max frost depth for this area. I really don't want to deal with frost heave 20 years from now.

 

[Highbeam]

Gravel backfill just gives the water a nice place to stay right next to the post.

 

[SpaceBus]

Gravel backfill just gives the water a nice place to stay right next to the post.

That's what concrete does, but then the water can't get out. 6" of gravel in the bottom of a post hole back filled with gravel will allow drainage around the post, reduce chances of frost heave, and prevent pests.

 

[bholler]

Why not just build a pole building. Sink the posts in the ground and let them extend up to the roof. You can hang a floor structure from those posts if you want.

 

[Bad LP]

I used Pre-stressed frost posts from Shea Concrete. They have a built in footing, are tapered to avoid frost pushing them around and easy to set. Come in 4 foot and 5 foot versions. Have a threaded bushing in the top for a post base and it's also a hoisting point.
I installed 3, 5 footers for my back deck in a colder climate than you are in and they haven't budged yet. I'd use them again in a split second.

 

[SpaceBus]

Why not just build a pole building. Sink the posts in the ground and let them extend up to the roof. You can hang a floor structure from those posts if you want.

That's what I am thinking about doing, but I'd like to get some drawings or plans since I've never done a gable roof, much less an intersecting gable roof.

 

[bholler]

That's what I am thinking about doing, but I'd like to get some drawings or plans since I've never done a gable roof, much less an intersecting gable roof.

Gable or gambrel

 

[SpaceBus]

Gable or gambrel

Like this, but with one side much longer to act as a carport.

https://www.thoughtco.com/thmb/whIuF39XGPgNw4oP-XivcgtZeiU=/2817x2113/smart/filters:no_upscale()/gable-97976101-crop2-57f6d0573df78c690f77a3ec.jpg

 

[bholler]

Like this, but with one side much longer to act as a carport.

https://www.thoughtco.com/thmb/whIuF39XGPgNw4oP-XivcgtZeiU=/2817x2113/smart/filters:no_upscale()/gable-97976101-crop2-57f6d0573df78c690f77a3ec.jpg

Oh that's easy gambrel gets a little tricky

 

[SpaceBus]

Oh that's easy gambrel gets a little tricky

Well, I'm also looking to do the pitch quite steep, like 10/12 or 12/12 and also have the roof project out 5' from the building walls on three to create porches on three sides and then the long side will be 12' off the wall to make a carport for my wife's Fiat . I don't know if all that will make it any more difficult.

Now you can see why I am looking for someone to design the framing for me.

 

[Bad LP]

Don't be shocked if your framer tries to change your mind. Your roofer will hate you. LOL.

Your 5 foot overhangs will have posts; Right?
Why no love for a floating slab?

 

[SpaceBus]

Don't be shocked if your framer tries to change your mind. Your roofer will hate you. LOL.

Your 5 foot overhangs will have posts; Right?
Why no love for a floating slab?

I will be the roofer, framer, and sawyer for this. We want a crawlspace for ease of adding plumbing/drains or power later should we choose, and in general I don't like concrete. Most will laugh, but I try to avoid using it due to the ecological impact of the lime kilns, transport, etc. Plus the dust is really hazardous. Also, yes, the overhangs will have posts, probably 8x8.

 

[Bad LP]

I will be the roofer, framer, and sawyer for this. We want a crawlspace for ease of adding plumbing/drains or power later should we choose, and in general I don't like concrete. Most will laugh, but I try to avoid using it due to the ecological impact of the lime kilns, transport, etc. Plus the dust is really hazardous. Also, yes, the overhangs will have posts, probably 8x8.

With the roof intersection like that it always looks like a big blob at the peak from weaving the valleys and then the caps. In my case the second ridge passes under the main ridge and the result is a nice and clean but to each their own.

 

[brenndatomu]

In my case the second ridge passes under the main ridge and the result is a nice and clean

Same here

 

[SpaceBus]

I'm down to have the ridges at different heights if that is better aesthetically and functionally. Like I said, I'm no engineer. My wife and I like the look and functionality of the intersecting gables. I'm sure we could make a storage shed and carport combo more easily, but we have to look at this thing.

 

[bholler]

I'm down to have the ridges at different heights if that is better aesthetically and functionally. Like I said, I'm no engineer. My wife and I like the look and functionality of the intersecting gables. I'm sure we could make a storage shed and carport combo more easily, but we have to look at this thing.

It depends on the roofing material. Shingles I prefer different levels. Metal I prefer the same level.

 

[SpaceBus]

It depends on the roofing material. Shingles I prefer different levels. Metal I prefer the same level.

Probably going to be cedar shingles on the roof, so different levels it is.

 

[SpaceBus]

This is pretty much what I'm looking for, but extend three gables 5' past the wall footprint and 12' on the side facing the viewer. This is timber framed with mortise and tenons, so not how I would do it. Maybe with some Simpson brackets, but that adds up really quick.

 

[Bad LP]

IMHO the dropped ridgeline for the dormers should be lower like what you have drawn.

 

[SpaceBus]

IMHO the dropped ridgeline for the dormers should be lower like what you have drawn.

I wish I drew it myself, but I did find it after you advised to have one ridge board below the other.