Lol, it doesn’t bother me. Luckily the whole system is light enough I can hold it with one arm and disassemble it with the other.
Stove Bright High Temperature Paint- Speak to the Experts!
- Thread starter Ms_Stove_Bright
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Hey!
I have a 1916 cook stove I am completely refurbishing - paint included
I want to use stove bright products but I am worried that due to the uneven temperatures on the stove, that the exterior won’t cure properly. Additionally, I need to paint the warming box above, and I know that will not hit the expected temperatures.
is this going to be an issue?
Good Afternoon!
As long as you follow the user guide and paint preparation, this should not effect the paint negatively. Stove Bright has 2 chemistries. First the paint dries, and then it heat-sets. When it dries, it looks nice- but the heat set process is where the paint "cures" to withstand temperature and to be scratch resistant. Stovebright likes to "cure" to 400 degrees or more. The paint will adhere and look nice regardless, if the proper prep is done. The only concern you would have, is if the paint does not heat set it is just more likely to scratch easily.
Please feel free to PM me your email and I would be happy to email you a user guide and troubleshooting tips!
It won’t let me send a PM (I am new to this site). I’ll see if I can figure it out.Good Afternoon!
As long as you follow the user guide and paint preparation, this should not effect the paint negatively. Stove Bright has 2 chemistries. First the paint dries, and then it heat-sets. When it dries, it looks nice- but the heat set process is where the paint "cures" to withstand temperature and to be scratch resistant. Stovebright likes to "cure" to 400 degrees or more. The paint will adhere and look nice regardless, if the proper prep is done. The only concern you would have, is if the paint does not heat set it is just more likely to scratch easily.
Welcome to the Forums Sam 🤪.
I use stove bright on my refurb’s, what is the recommended reducer to thin the paint for a gravity spray gun? I use lacquer thinner right now.
I use stove bright on my refurb’s, what is the recommended reducer to thin the paint for a gravity spray gun? I use lacquer thinner right now.
@Ms_Stove_Bright How soon after painting does it have to be heat cured? If the stove was painted and wasn't fired for months would that be a problem or is it better to heat cure it sooner?
Hello,
Just got a steel wood stove and ordered a pint can of Stove Bright satin black
brush on paint.
The stove is pretty rusty. I can take the surface down to bare metal but do not
know what to do about the pitting. The surface is shiny but covered with pin
holes full of rust. Chemicals and a strong pressure washer? Will the paint
adhere over the rust holes?
Thanks for any help.
Kirill Sapelkin
znanie
Just got a steel wood stove and ordered a pint can of Stove Bright satin black
brush on paint.
The stove is pretty rusty. I can take the surface down to bare metal but do not
know what to do about the pitting. The surface is shiny but covered with pin
holes full of rust. Chemicals and a strong pressure washer? Will the paint
adhere over the rust holes?
Thanks for any help.
Kirill Sapelkin
znanie
Good Morning, Thanks for reaching out. The brush on is nice and thick, and will be the best to cover pin holes. You wont be able to completely remove the pitted look, but this is the right formulation to use for this project. We do not recommend any chemicals prior to painting other than a completely evaporating solvent, such as Acetone. Sometimes other chemicals leave a residue that Stove Bright will not adhere to properly. I would recommend sanding it down, giving it a good acetone wipe to remove any remaining dust or dirt, and then brushing lightly. Please note that this product cannot be thinned down- the chemistry just wont work properly with thinning. So when you apply this, ensure you have a brush made for solvent based paints (they can recommend one to you at the store) and then apply it lightly. It's hard to smooth out lap lines with this product due to it's viscosity, so take your time and load up less than you think you would need at a time on your brush. This should fill in the holes pretty well, but dont apply it too thick. Stove Bright likes to be applied thin. It should greatly reduce the overall appearance of the pock marks and I think you will be happy with the finish.
It does not have to be done right away, you can heat cure it a few months later. The paint just doesnt get its properties until it is heat cured, so it's easier to scratch.
Forgot to ask, can I use a foam (or other kind) roller? If so, what kind
Generally have better luck that brushing.
Thanks.
Generally have better luck that brushing.
Thanks.
Woody5506
Minister of Fire
I tried to get clarification on this in another forum as far as why Stovebrite won't admit their brush on products can be thinned? Does this have more to do with VOC regulation on a product that I'm assuming is now closer to non compliance? I see last year you recommended to another user up to 10% of a solvent for thinning to run through a gravity gun but now you're saying it won't work properly with that paint. I know VOC laws are constantly changing I'm just curious if the reason *now* for not thinning is more so due to VOC restraints. I own an industrial paint shop in NY so I know how it goes, but a straight answer from Stovebrite would be nice.
How are stove manufacturers applying this as a factory finish if not reducing the paint? They certainly aren't using rattle cans...
I can attest to Ms Stovebright being incredibly helpful and SUPER good at helping selecting colors.
She helped us refinish our zero clearance fireplace!
She helped us refinish our zero clearance fireplace!
I may or may not have some helpful information so, take this as a grain of salt without further investigation.
I've helped with some rotisserie classic auto restorations in the past. Sometimes on rare cars replacement panels would be obsolete and we had to work within the customer's budget. Sometimes if the area was small enough, we could use a special product rather than form a new patch panel. This stuff is called All Metal. It's an epoxy with aluminum filings mixed in. A hardener was added at time of application. This stuff dries rock hard and adheres extremely well. Once set, it's very difficult to sand.
I would say it's safe with the temps a wood stove wood experience but, I do not know if it would like the expansion and contraction of the stove during heating cycles. Again, further investigation is required.....
Just a thought.
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