Stove in a basement. Is BK suitable for me?

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This is a great thread. Your situation sounds similiar to mine. I run a quadrafire 3100 insert upstairs it does an adequate job of heating the upstairs. Not great but ok enough.

I've got a partially finished basement with a walk out. No fireplace but a hearth area where you can put a wood stove. And a connection into the 2nd flue from this area

I thought about the same things your thinking about. However I'm never downstairs so I need something with very long burn times in the basement. I'm thinking a cat stove ?

Also there's a forced hot air heating duct that runs right above where the wood stove would go. Do you think if I cut an opening in the air duct and put a register there, the heat from the basement stove will naturally fill my furnace air ducts enough to make it's way to the upstairs and out the registers ?
Haha ,mine setup is similar. I got uninsulated ceiling above my fireplace . AND... There is a floor register above it with 4 feet 6" duct that not connected to anything . Lot of room for creativity .
 
i have a bk king in my basement. house is 3000 plus sqft.. the upstairs stays 75+all winter and the basement stays in the mid 80s. id say we are spoiled...
 
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Thread is less than a year old (barely), So I wont consider it a zombie yet ;)

Folks mind sharing how they have vented their basement stoves? Up through the living space and through attic? Out the concrete basement walls with a pair of 90's?
 
Im planning a basement install currently and will be going up through the main level and through the attic. I used to have a basement install in my past house that went out the side wall and 90 up. That worked ok but there is nothing better than straight up chimney if you can manage it
 
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Basement installs can be tricky. Past performance in other people's houses is no guarantee of performance in your house.
 
Basement installs can be tricky. Past performance in other people's houses is no guarantee of performance in your house.
I recognize this. However, it seems prudent to do as much research as possible before investing $6k in an install and just hoping it works. It seems like there is significantly less information out there on how to work through the logistics of a basement install as compared to a typical first floor free standing stove install.
 
There are a few things you can do that can help achieve success if the negative pressure in the basement is not bad. One is to go straight up through the house with the chimney. That will eliminate draft reducing elbows and it will keep the flue gases warmer which also enhances draft.
If the house is full electric, with no competing appliances in the basement that may also help, but this can also depend on the number and strength of exhaust fans in the house. A 500 cfm gourmet kitchen exhaust fan is going to suck a lot of air from wherever it can find it. Another thing you can do is check for current negative pressure in the basement. On a calm day, if you crack open a door or window in the basement is there a strong inrush of air? That can indicate negative pressure. If so, and all exhaust fans are off (including the clothes dryer) then look for upstairs leakage via an open window, leaky attic door, etc..
 
There are a few things you can do that can help achieve success if the negative pressure in the basement is not bad. One is to go straight up through the house with the chimney. That will eliminate draft reducing elbows and it will keep the flue gases warmer which also enhances draft.
If the house is full electric, with no competing appliances in the basement that may also help, but this can also depend on the number and strength of exhaust fans in the house. A 500 cfm gourmet kitchen exhaust fan is going to suck a lot of air from wherever it can find it. Another thing you can do is check for current negative pressure in the basement. On a calm day, if you crack open a door or window in the basement is there a strong inrush of air? That can indicate negative pressure. If so, and all exhaust fans are off (including the clothes dryer) then look for upstairs leakage via an open window, leaky attic door, etc..
Thanks for the info @begreen We have a new build, super insulated, all electric, VERY tight (0.7ACH50) and breath with an HRV. We do not have any other exhaust fans (no bathroom, range, or dryer).

Given all this, If I install a straight chimney through the house and an OAK through the rim joist, I think I should have a reliable install?
 
We have a new build, super insulated, all electric, VERY tight (0.7ACH50) and breath with an HRV. We do not have any other exhaust fans (no bathroom, range, or dryer).

Given all this, If I install a straight chimney through the house and an OAK through the rim joist, I think I should have a reliable install?
I can see why the question mark at the end. You will be doing all you can to insure success. As a test, try opening a window or door in the basement a tiny bit and check the air flow.

Question: Is the HRV be set up to provide positive pressure in the house? I would think that would help.
 
I can see why the question mark at the end. You will be doing all you can to insure success. As a test, try opening a window or door in the basement a tiny bit and check the air flow.

Question: Is the HRV be set up to provide positive pressure in the house? I would think that would help.
Cracked a basement window and got very moderate airflow. By no means a rush of air.

The HRV is set to provide a balanced air supply.