Stove install in pole barn

[Cow Bridge]

I've been lurking around here for awhile and I've picked up some great info.

I will be installing a wood stove in my pole barn in the next week or so and before I start I wanna make certain I am doing things correctly. Attached is a diagram illustrating the job.

1. Do I need a ceiling mount box AND a chimney roof support bracket? Is the ceiling mount box drawn in the correct location?... on top of the metal ceiling attached to the truss with lumber.

2. Lowes says their double wall pipe has a 2" clearance. Does that sound right? Wondering how close I can install it to truss lumber and double bubble insulation under the roof metal. I can center the pipe between the roof girts (2x4's) if I have to, but if 2" clearance is correct, it will be easier.

3. Do I need double wall pipe from the chimney cap all the way down through the attic space to the metal ceiling? Or only through the roof?

4. What kind of caulk or sealant is recommended for the dektite and brace brackets? Is it needed anywhere else?

5. Should I install a damper? If so, where?

Thank you all for this great resource. It's much appreciated

 

[SpaceBus]

I would probably use double wall inside, but you might be running that thing so hot your flue will never be below 250 f surface temp.

 

[bholler]

I've been lurking around here for awhile and I've picked up some great info.

I will be installing a wood stove in my pole barn in the next week or so and before I start I wanna make certain I am doing things correctly. Attached is a diagram illustrating the job.

1. Do I need a ceiling mount box AND a chimney roof support bracket? Is the ceiling mount box drawn in the correct location?... on top of the metal ceiling attached to the truss with lumber.

2. Lowes says their double wall pipe has a 2" clearance. Does that sound right? Wondering how close I can install it to truss lumber and double bubble insulation under the roof metal. I can center the pipe between the roof girts (2x4's) if I have to, but if 2" clearance is correct, it will be easier.

3. Do I need double wall pipe from the chimney cap all the way down through the attic space to the metal ceiling? Or only through the roof?

4. What kind of caulk or sealant is recommended for the dektite and brace brackets? Is it needed anywhere else?

5. Should I install a damper? If so, where?

Thank you all for this great resource. It's much appreciated


View attachment 238785

Yes you need chimney pipe from the ceiling up till it reaches 3 feet above the roof or 3 feet above anything within 10 feet which ever is greater.

Class a chimney pipe typically need 2 inches of clearance but confirm that with the manufacturers instructions.

You will need a support box an insulation sheild on top of the ceiling and flashing at the roof. A support bracket is needed if it extends more that 5 feet out of the roof.

Another consideration is what is the pole barn going to be used for?

 

[bholler]

Also put the tee at the back of the stove instead of an elbow. That allows some space for desbros that falls to go without obstructing flow.

 

[maple1]

'Double wall' gets thrown around quite a bit.

Maybe you should clarify exactly what you mean.

I think I see one reply already that might be talking about something different than you are.

 

[Cow Bridge]

Yes you need chimney pipe from the ceiling up till it reaches 3 feet above the roof or 3 feet above anything within 10 feet which ever is greater.

Class a chimney pipe typically need 2 inches of clearance but confirm that with the manufacturers instructions.

You will need a support box an insulation sheild on top of the ceiling and flashing at the roof. A support bracket is needed if it extends more that 5 feet out of the roof.

Another consideration is what is the pole barn going to be used for?

If I understand you correctly... I need black stove pipe up to the metal ceiling, then insulation shield on top of ceiling, then a section of chimney pipe, next a support box somewhere in the attic space, then more chimney pipe out through the roof passing through flashing on top of roof ( in this case i was thinking of using a #6 silicone dektite). Do I have that right?

The pole barn will be used as a shop/mancave/brewing space. I am insulating the walls this week. What should I do first, the metal ceiling or install the stove?

 

[Cow Bridge]

Also put the tee at the back of the stove instead of an elbow. That allows some space for desbros that falls to go without obstructing flow.

ok thanks. So put the "T" part on the side of the pipe into the back of the stove and cap the bottom off somehow?

 

[Cow Bridge]

'Double wall' gets thrown around quite a bit.

Maybe you should clarify exactly what you mean.

I think I see one reply already that might be talking about something different than you are.

Was looking at these at my local Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/SuperVent-...ed-Double-Wall-Stainless-Chimney-Pipe/3134409

 

[bholler]

If I understand you correctly... I need black stove pipe up to the metal ceiling, then insulation shield on top of ceiling, then a section of chimney pipe, next a support box somewhere in the attic space, then more chimney pipe out through the roof passing through flashing on top of roof ( in this case i was thinking of using a #6 silicone dektite). Do I have that right?

The pole barn will be used as a shop/mancave/brewing space. I am insulating the walls this week. What should I do first, the metal ceiling or install the stove?

No the support box would be at the bottom of the chimney insulation sheild on top of that.

The reason I asked about the use is because by code solid fuel appliances cannot be installed in garages or any spaces where gasoline or other flammable vapors are present.

 

[bholler]

ok thanks. So put the "T" part on the side of the pipe into the back of the stove and cap the bottom off somehow?

Yes a tee cap on the bottom that can be pulled for cleaning.

 

[maple1]

Was looking at these at my local Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/SuperVent-...ed-Double-Wall-Stainless-Chimney-Pipe/3134409

OK, there's that. There's also double wall stove pipe. Chimney pipe is good.

Your support box goes in your ceiling joists. And supports the chimney. Stove pipe hooks to the bottom of it. There's a kit on the bottom of that linked page.

EDIT: the manufacturer of your steel roofing might also have a chimney boot, for where it passes though the roof.

 

[HomeinPA]

A few things... On many class-a cathedral supports the box is supposed to extend below the finished ceiling 2-6 inches so check on that requirement. You may also need an attic insulation shield above the bottom cord of the rafter or at minimum, a storm collar to prevent something from falling between the chimney and ceiling support.

As far as connector pipe, if you have 18" from the wall to the surface of the pipe then single wall is acceptable, double wall or heat shielded pipe are also good. I would not go to the expense of class-a chimney below the ceiling support because, a - it's not necessary, b - costs, c - weight of the chimney being suspended from the ceiling and d - according to instructions and code class-a chimney needs to be enclosed in chase inside the living/working area of a structure. Stovepipe does not.

The advice on the location of the T is spot on. Much easier to remove the T cap for cleaning purposed than pulling the elbow off and having the pipe swinging from the ceiling support while you try to clean it.

What is your hearth made of? Are the 8" legs going to provide enough clearance for installation on what may be a combustible surface? Also, 16" is usually the minimum in front of the stove for hearth protection including the lower floor in front of the hearth.

I would suggest a snow wedge in front of the chimney to prevent snow or ice from coming down the steeper roof and taking out the chimney.

 

[HomeinPA]

Yes you need chimney pipe from the ceiling up till it reaches 3 feet above the roof or 3 feet above anything within 10 feet which ever is greater.

Uhmmm.....3' through the roof, 2' higher than anything within 10' minimum isn't it? Did it get changed recently and I'm uninformed?

 

[bholler]

Uhmmm.....3' through the roof, 2' higher than anything within 10' minimum isn't it? Did it get changed recently and I'm uninformed?

U are right that was a typo. Oops

 

[Cow Bridge]

No the support box would be at the bottom of the chimney insulation sheild on top of that.

The reason I asked about the use is because by code solid fuel appliances cannot be installed in garages or any spaces where gasoline or other flammable vapors are present.

Ok so black stove pipe to ceiling mount box to chimney insulation shield to double wall chimney pipe. Seems to me a ceiling mount box would be tall enough to act as an insulation shield all by itself.

Yes I have read about the no gas in the barn here on this site. I'm planning on building a wood shed, I guess I can keep all my gas cans out there

 

[Cow Bridge]

OK, there's that. There's also double wall stove pipe. Chimney pipe is good.

Your support box goes in your ceiling joists. And supports the chimney. Stove pipe hooks to the bottom of it. There's a kit on the bottom of that linked page.

EDIT: the manufacturer of your steel roofing might also have a chimney boot, for where it passes though the roof.

Do I need a kit to attach the stove pipe to the support box? If so would you mind telling me which kit on that linked page is the one I need? There is several and it seems that most of them include parts I dont need. Thanks

 

[HomeinPA]

Ok so black stove pipe to ceiling mount box to chimney insulation shield to double wall chimney pipe. Seems to me a ceiling mount box would be tall enough to act as an insulation shield all by itself.

Yes I have read about the no gas in the barn here on this site. I'm planning on building a wood shed, I guess I can keep all my gas cans out there

Depends who's chimney product you're using. There should be specific instructions included which would spell it out. You can also explain what you're doing to whomever you are getting it from and they should be able to get you the correct parts. If it's Lowes or Home Depot you're likely gonna be SOL on that one though.

 

[HomeinPA]

Do I need a kit to attach the stove pipe to the support box? If so would you mind telling me which kit on that linked page is the one I need? There is several and it seems that most of them include parts I dont need. Thanks

There will be a specific adapter. I think Lowes has a cathedral ceiling kit that might include most of what you need. If not try contacting whoever makes the parts and ask them how to order what you need.

 

[Cow Bridge]

A few things... On many class-a cathedral supports the box is supposed to extend below the finished ceiling 2-6 inches so check on that requirement. You may also need an attic insulation shield above the bottom cord of the rafter or at minimum, a storm collar to prevent something from falling between the chimney and ceiling support.

As far as connector pipe, if you have 18" from the wall to the surface of the pipe then single wall is acceptable, double wall or heat shielded pipe are also good. I would not go to the expense of class-a chimney below the ceiling support because, a - it's not necessary, b - costs, c - weight of the chimney being suspended from the ceiling and d - according to instructions and code class-a chimney needs to be enclosed in chase inside the living/working area of a structure. Stovepipe does not.

The advice on the location of the T is spot on. Much easier to remove the T cap for cleaning purposed than pulling the elbow off and having the pipe swinging from the ceiling support while you try to clean it.

What is your hearth made of? Are the 8" legs going to provide enough clearance for installation on what may be a combustible surface? Also, 16" is usually the minimum in front of the stove for hearth protection including the lower floor in front of the hearth.

I would suggest a snow wedge in front of the chimney to prevent snow or ice from coming down the steeper roof and taking out the chimney.

Very helpful thank you.
I havent fully planned the hearth yet, but I have seen several options around here that I like. Whatever way I go, the top surface at minimum will be non combustible. I was unaware of the 16" minimum rule. Are you saying the 20" tall hearth must extend a minimum of 16" out past the front of the stove?

 

[HomeinPA]

Very helpful thank you.
I havent fully planned the hearth yet, but I have seen several options around here that I like. Whatever way I go, the top surface at minimum will be non combustible. I was unaware of the 16" minimum rule. Are you saying the 20" tall hearth must extend a minimum of 16" out past the front of the stove?

The hearth clearances for your specific stove will be listed on a data plate on the back of the stove but generally yes, 16-18 inches noncombustible area in front of the stove. It can be 20" below it if you want it to. That's a really high hearth though. Don't forget you have to lift the stove up there.

 

[Cow Bridge]

The hearth clearances for your specific stove will be listed on a data plate on the back of the stove but generally yes, 16-18 inches noncombustible area in front of the stove. It can be 20" below it if you want it to. That's a really high hearth though. Don't forget you have to lift the stove up there.

No data plate. Its an older stove I got for free that I cleaned up and painted. My floor is concrete. I thought I read somewhere around here that a 20" high hearth was code... or at least recommended.

 

[Highbeam]

I have a stove in my pole barn. Metal ceiling too. I used just a ceiling support box that was tall enough to also be an insulation shield. There is nothing at my roof deck other than the cone flashing.

It’s burning right now. Works nicely with the metal ceiling.

The county inspector required an 18” tall hearth so it would be above any gasoline fumes. I used all vertical black connector pipe and all vertical chimney. No reason for any elbows or tees if you do it right stay all vertical.

 

[bholler]

I have a stove in my pole barn. Metal ceiling too. I used just a ceiling support box that was tall enough to also be an insulation shield. There is nothing at my roof deck other than the cone flashing.

It’s burning right now. Works nicely with the metal ceiling.

Do you have anything covering the top of the support box? If so that works great

 

[HomeinPA]

I have a stove in my pole barn. Metal ceiling too. I used just a ceiling support box that was tall enough to also be an insulation shield. There is nothing at my roof deck other than the cone flashing.

It’s burning right now. Works nicely with the metal ceiling.

The county inspector required an 18” tall hearth so it would be above any gasoline fumes. I used all vertical black connector pipe and all vertical chimney. No reason for any elbows or tees if you do it right stay all vertical.

Hmmm.. not aware of the 18" deal but the logic is sound. Maybe the 18" deal is for commercial/non residential buildings.

 

[Highbeam]

Hmmm.. not aware of the 18" deal but the logic is sound. Maybe the 18" deal is for commercial/non residential buildings.

Seems to be a carry over from other mechanical devices like gas furnaces and water heaters needing to be elevated. Canada code requires something similar in garages.