Stove Size for Central Ontario

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ForestryGuy

Member
Jan 27, 2020
23
Algonquin Highlands, ON CA
Hi everyone! New to the forum, but have been reading the threads for a while now. Here`s the scoop; about to pull the trigger on my first woodstove purchase for a primary source of heat. I live in a 1200 sq ft home, open concept livingroom and kitchen, 8ft ceilings with average to poor insulation in the Algonquin Highlands in central Ontario where the winter is about 5 months long and the temps (other than this year) average from -10C to -30C (14 F to -22 F).

We have been leaning towards the PE Alderlea T5 Classic/Enamel. I have read almost every thread on this model but I am a little conflicted on whether it would be better to get the T6 instead (same price as the T5 at the store). I am all ears for any and all recommendations from this fine group of woodburning connoisseurs. Thanks in advance!
 
If there will be no improvements in the house insulation and sealing then, given the length of your winters, I would lean towards the T6. It will be overkill for milder weather burning, but will provide the reserves for the bitter cold below -15 to -30C days. That said, if it were me I would be investing in tightening up the house and reducing heat loss for better long-term payback. In that case the T5 would do the job. Also check out the Enviro Boston 1700 if available.
 
I agree that you're on the edge but only if your insulation remains poor. The T5 would be plenty if you tighten up the house a little. I know someone with a Super 27 (same firebox) north of North Bay, similar size house, well sealed though, and it does very well. I don't like having a stove that's too large, having to open windows regularly in shoulder seasons, not loading full, etc.

How is your wood supply? If you have oodles of dry wood on hand then the larger stove is a little more palatable--you won't worry opening a window sometimes wasting heat.

What is your chimney setup and height? Stove on the main level?

I'm in SW Ont and yeah--for all the doom and gloom "hard winter" forecasting, it's been pretty mild to say the least...
 
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I would go bigger.

I am very surprised that using the name you have chosen and your general location the house does not already have a stove. I always believed that rural area folks had wood stoves (for at least back up heat).
 
Thanks for the replies. Just bought the house in the fall and yes I do have plans for sprayfoaming the crawl space under the house (single level home) where most of the problem lies and re-insulating the attic, the windows are double pane and in decent condition.

I think the quote said roughly 12.6` of chimney. The pre-existing hearth is centrally located on the living room wall.

I have a tandem of logs (20 tons) maple, beech and birchthat I am currently processing for next winter.
 
begreen said:
If there will be no improvements in the house insulation and sealing then, given the length of your winters, I would lean towards the T6. It will be overkill for milder weather burning, but will provide the reserves for the bitter cold below -15 to -30C days. That said, if it were me I would be investing in tightening up the house and reducing heat loss for better long-term payback. In that case the T5 would do the job. Also check out the Enviro Boston 1700 if available.
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Thanks begreen, I was thinking that may be the path to go, but seeing as the stoves were the same price and I have a big enough hearth...it got my wheels spinning.
 
The T6 is pretty flexible and it doesn't blast out heat in all directions. The cast iron jacket buffers the heat and soaks up a lot to be later released as the fire dies down. It will burn cleanly with 4 splits if they are not allowed to smolder. Creosote forms when the flue gases get too cool. The number one cause is wet or poorly seasoned wood. The second might be a cold exterior chimney or smoldering the fire. Modern stoves are designed to limit smoldering.

Is the chimney interior or exterior? Is it lined, insulated and 6" diameter?
 
ForestryGuy said:
Thanks begreen, I was thinking that may be the path to go, but seeing as the stoves were the same price and I have a big enough hearth...it got my wheels spinning.
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It's your call. I was in the same situation and went larger. No regrets. FWIW I have a friend with a Summit (same firebox at the T6) in a well-insulated 1600 sq ft home up north. They see temps in the 15- 20ºF range regularly. It's their sole source of heat and it does well for them. In milder weather they just do a smaller 4 split fire in the morning or evening and let it go out. The counterpoint is my neighbor in the same sized, moderately insulated house with the 2 cu ft PE Spectrum who is glad he didn't get a larger stove. But here the temps rarely go below 20F and are usually in the 30s to 40s in the winter.
 
begreen said:
The T6 is pretty flexible and it doesn't blast out heat in all directions. The cast iron jacket buffers the heat and soaks up a lot to be later released as the fire dies down. It will burn cleanly with 4 splits if they are not allowed to smolder. Creosote forms when the flue gases get too cool. The number one cause is wet or poorly seasoned wood. The second might be a cold exterior chimney or smoldering the fire. Modern stoves are designed to limit smoldering.

Is the chimney interior or exterior? Is it lined, insulated and 6" diameter?
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The chimney is interior, doubled walled and 6" diameter. It's expensive so I assume it's high quality, but that's with lack of experience.
 
If the place will be unoccupied for any period of time and the propane heat is set to 50ºF then go larger. It takes a lot of extra heat to bring the mass of the interior back up to temp.
 
begreen said:
It's your call. I was in the same situation and went larger. No regrets. FWIW I have a friend with a Summit (same firebox at the T6) in a well-insulated 1600 sq ft home up north. They see temps in the 15- 20ºF range regularly. It's their sole source of heat and it does well for them. In milder weather they just do a smaller 4 split fire in the morning or evening and let it go out. The counterpoint is my neighbor in the same sized, moderately insulated house with the 2 cu ft PE Spectrum who is glad he didn't get a larger stove. But here the temps rarely go below 20F and are usually in the 30s to 40s in the winter.
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I've read alot of your posts that mention that fact and that's why I thought I should ask about the T6. So just 4 splits will kick in the secondaries? Impressive
 
begreen said:
If the place will be unoccupied for any period of time and the propane heat is set to 50ºF then go larger. It takes a lot of extra heat to bring the mass of the interior back up to temp.
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We will be removing the propane stove as its occupying the new wood stove location. We have baseboard heating on thermostats for backup. Not ideal, but that's we are getting a wood stove, I get wood cheap and we have acreage to harvest from as well.
 
ForestryGuy said:
We will be removing the propane stove as its occupying the new wood stove location. We have baseboard heating on thermostats for backup. Not ideal, but that's we are getting a wood stove, I get wood cheap and we have acreage to harvest from as well.
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The main thing will be to have dry wood. Fir and pine dry quickly and can be a nice compliment in the wood supply. The lower btu wood is good for shoulder season burning.
 
begreen said:
The main thing will be to have dry wood. Fir and pine dry quickly and can be a nice compliment in the wood supply. The lower btu wood is good for shoulder season burning.
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I plan on having at least 6 cords of wood split and stacked before spring. I am assuming poplar will give me the same burn as pine or fir? We have more of that here.

And yes me and my partner will be away from the house for upwards of 10 hrs a day
 
Yes, poplar is a good shoulder season wood. I burn doug fir almost exclusively. It's nice to have some pine on hand for quick heat and easy starts.
 
begreen said:
Yes, poplar is a good shoulder season wood. I burn doug fir almost exclusively. It's nice to have some pine on hand for quick heat and easy starts.
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We have quite a bit of cedar which is great for kindling, and balsam fir which I've never burned, but may reconsider now.

Thanks again, I have a lot to think about with regards to the stove and everything surrounding it.
 
1200 sq ft, ok insulation widows are newer triple pane. House is a 40’s built like a tank but drafty. Sealed her and house wrapped and resided it in the fall of 2018, this made a huge difference. 8 hours is not an issue still plenty of coals to add more wood and have it relight, although the harman was kicked in and is suppling supplementary heat at this point , 10 hours I doubt if I could relight with coals. If I was buying again I would go with a bigger stove or BK.
 
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ManitobaSky said:
1200 sq ft, ok insulation widows are newer triple pane. House is a 40’s built like a tank but drafty. Sealed her and house wrapped and resided it in the fall of 2018, this made a huge difference. 8 hours is not an issue still plenty of coals to add more wood and have it relight, although the harman was kicked in and is suppling supplementary heat at this point , 10 hours I doubt if I could relight with coals. If I was buying again I would go with a bigger stove or BK.
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Thanks for the info. We were considering a BK but it wasn't checking all the boxes for us. Definitely need to consider the bigger stove though.
 
1200 sqf. House is perfect for BK Princess, provided it has good insulation, good windows and at most important seasoned firewood supply.
 
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begreen said:
The T6 is pretty flexible and it doesn't blast out heat in all directions. The cast iron jacket buffers the heat and soaks up a lot to be later released as the fire dies down. It will burn cleanly with 4 splits if they are not allowed to smolder. Creosote forms when the flue gases get too cool. The number one cause is wet or poorly seasoned wood. The second might be a cold exterior chimney or smoldering the fire. Modern stoves are designed to limit smoldering.

Is the chimney interior or exterior? Is it lined, insulated and 6" diameter?
Click to expand...
"Not allowed to smolder " would avoided by keeping the air intake open, half open?
 
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