Stovepipe adapter will not separate from ceiling support

[Murray01]

For the life of me I cannot disconnect the stovepipe adapter from the ceiling support. I used a bit of tape to indicate tight vs as loose as I can get it. It feels like I’m hitting something that limits the amount of movement in a counterclockwise direction. I tried to gently pry the adapter downwards, no luck. What am I missing?

 

[Whitenuckler]

For the life of me I cannot disconnect the stovepipe adapter from the ceiling support. I used a bit of tape to indicate tight vs as loose as I can get it. It feels like I’m hitting something that limits the amount of movement in a counterclockwise direction. I tried to gently pry the adapter downwards, no luck. What am I missing?







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Are you sure it not all one piece?

 

[Murray01]

Are you sure it not all one piece?

I’m not sure, I’ve never seen a one piece unit, I’m assuming they exist since you asked? I did find a label on it, unfortunately it has been painted over so I can’t read all of it. What I can make out is ULC, Factory Built Chimney and Selkirk Metalbestos, Brockville Ont. Canada. All the finer print is not legible.

 

[Murray01]

I’m thinking I need to remove the stovepipe adapter to remove the bottom piece of Class A chimney from the ceiling support box, at least that’s how I’ve done it with previous chimneys.

 

[Whitenuckler]

I’m not sure, I’ve never seen a one piece unit, I’m assuming they exist since you asked? I did find a label on it, unfortunately it has been painted over so I can’t read all of it. What I can make out is ULC, Factory Built Chimney and Selkirk Metalbestos, Brockville Ont. Canada. All the finer print is not legible.

No, I was just throwing it out there since it does not seem to be coming apart. Would it not have screws holding it on if it comes apart?

 

[Murray01]

No screws that I can see, besides wouldn’t screws prevent the adapter from turning? I gave it a gentle pry in a few places around the perimeter to no avail.

 

[Whitenuckler]

No screws that I can see, besides wouldn’t screws prevent the adapter from turning? I gave it a gentle pry in a few places around the perimeter to no avail.

I took a look on the web but did not see any parts like that. Can you get above to look? I see the flange was nailed from below.
Are you removing the vent pipe? I'm sure one of the experts here will know what's going on.

 

[Murray01]

The whole installation is coming out and get rebuilt to code. I will be able to get a look from the roof once I remove the Class A chimney. The top two pieces should come out with no issues, it’s the bottom chimney piece that attaches to the adapter that has me scratching my head. Waiting for the weather to improve before climbing on the roof.

 

[Whitenuckler]

The whole installation is coming out and get rebuilt to code. I will be able to get a look from the roof once I remove the Class A chimney. The top two pieces should come out with no issues, it’s the bottom chimney piece that attaches to the adapter that has me scratching my head. Waiting for the weather to improve before climbing on the roof.

OK I think if you start removing from the top and work your way down you will figure it out. I'm sure that's the way they put it in (except for the stove pipe to the support adapter)

 

[Murray01]

Another snag. Looking for suggestions to separate the Class A chimney sections. When I try to unthread the top section the entire chimney(9’ - 3 sections) is turning. I’m limited to available help so I’m trying to do this myself. Lifting 3 sections is going to be way to heavy for me.

 

[begreen]

Can you ratchet strap a 3' piece of 2x3 at a right angle onto the next lower section to hold it? Let the 2x3 bump up against you to stop it.

 

[Murray01]

Can you ratchet strap a 3' piece of 2x3 at a right angle onto the next lower section to hold it? Let the 2x3 bump up against you to stop it.

Yes I can and did as you suggested. Didn’t take much force to “unlock” the top piece once the bottom piece was anchored. I know the experts on this forum frown upon rubber boots for metal roof flashing but in my case it is a blessing, I was able to use a 12” plant pot upside down and a ratchet strap to act as a chimney substitute to keep the rain out until the contractor can come to replace everything and bring it up to code. As usual following Grampa’s work is always an experience, at first glance insulation piled around the Class A chimney…dig deeper and it’s piled around the original roof flashing and of course the original shingles. Thank you very much for your suggestion.

 

[Turbo89]

That’s a tough connection without someone to hold it from twisting. If the ratchet strap isn’t working, can you use some scrap wood and screws to wedge it in place (and maybe screw it solid)? This may ruin the adapter piece in the process; but that may be where you end up anyways?

If you can get a friend on the inside with a ladder, maybe a big strap wrench or big pair of water pump pliers would work to hold it?

 

[Murray01]

That’s a tough connection without someone to hold it from twisting. If the ratchet strap isn’t working, can you use some scrap wood and screws to wedge it in place (and maybe screw it solid)? This may ruin the adapter piece in the process; but that may be where you end up anyways?

If you can get a friend on the inside with a ladder, maybe a big strap wrench or big pair of water pump pliers would work to hold it?

Thanks, I got it

 

[Murray01]

Had to pry the stovepipe adapter off…it should have threaded off but wouldn’t. Interesting to note the support bracket was 12” diameter for a 10” outside diameter Class A pipe.

 

[begreen]

Will this be switched out to 6" class A chimney?