Stovepipe for Jotul F50 Rangeley

[cga]

I am installing a Jotul F50 Rangeley in an addition to my passive solar house. It will be used for supplemental heat. I have read conflicting ideas on the best stovepipe, so I thought I would ask here.
Situation of the woodstove. It will be in a large room in a floor to ceiling brick U open to the room. The ceiling is 16' high at the peak of the room close to the top of the brick enclosure. At the top of the brick enclosure, there will be a intake for transporting hot air to the mass system (heat storage for the passive solar house) and from there to the rooms. I have this system in the main house with a small woodstove (BIS Stove from 1991) which we usually burn at top efficiency for a period of time and then let go out, and the whole house is heated nicely and heat stored in the mass. (By necessity insulated pipe directly from the stove.)
Questions:
1. Should I use insulated pipe directly from the stove? If so, any recommendations for the pipe?
2. I have thought of going up from the stove with regular pipe -- to gain more radiant heat from the outflow and then transitioning to insulated pipe for going through the roof. Is this a bad idea with one of these new EPA stoves?

 

[Knots]

You seem to have plenty of chimney length. I have an F55 and went with good quality double-wall to the ceiling and then (of course) insulated the rest of the way. I used Ventis pipe.

(broken link removed)

 

[cga]

Thank you for the answer. I hope you do not mind a couple of questions.

1. Why double-wall in the room?
2. Does it provide much radiant heat on the way up? Or was it a cost decision?

 

[Knots]

I'm certainly not an expert on stovepipe, but these are my thoughts:

The stove pipe, in my opinion, isn't really supposed to be part of the radiant heat system. The stove itself should be capturing and giving off the heat. A good, modern stove won't let too much heat go up the pipe. Keeping the exhaust pipe gas velocity high makes the stove perform the way it's supposed to. Cool gas travels slower, hot gas faster. So, that heat needs to remain in the pipe and the double-wall will do a somewhat better job of that.

The double-wall radiates some before it makes it to the insulated. When the stove is at temperature, the pipe is just a little too hot to touch.

I paid a fairly high amount for the good pipe (with the 316 inner liner). If you've ever spent time trying to put together cheap stove pipe, you will appreciate the manufacturing tolerances of the better pipe and how easily it goes together. My double-wall has a slip-section that allows for disassembly for cleaning, and it works very nicely.

 

[begreen]

Most stove manufacturers recommend using double-wall stove pipe for tall ceiling installations. Too much heat loss is not good for draft or keeping creosote buildup low. In a 16ft run of double-wall connector their will still be a lot of heat radiated off the pipe.

This is from the stove manual:
• The maximum vertical run of single wall stovepipe should not exceed 10 ft. (305 cm).

 

[cga]

Thanks for the answers. My newest woodstove is from 1991 and is zero clearance BIS stove naturally having insulated pipe all the way. The Rangely will be my first modern stove. Your points are excellent. I will go with the double pipe inside up to the insulated pipe (and try to get pipe with the slip section for cleaning, an excellent idea. I agree about good pipe. I remember the days with leaky single walled pipe stretching across the room in a cold building to try and get every ounce of heat out of an old leaky stove, as well as the multiple cleanings each year. Sometimes the pipe would glow next to the stove!
My BIS pipe pretty much stays clean, so that may be an argument for insulated pipe all the way.