Stuck Air Intake Control - Timberwolf 2100

[GreenMountainBoy]

I purchased a Timberwolf 2100 wood stove new back in 2016. On this stove the air control is a left-right slider type of setup on the front of the unit, with open (max air) to the right and closed (min air) to the left. Over the years, the slider has become more and more difficult to move, to the point where it's now completely unmovable - stuck - when the stove heats up and very difficult to move when the stove is stone cold.

Has anyone experienced this type of problem? What's the fix? Is it as simple as adding some type of lubricant, or will it require professional service?

Thanks to everyone in advance.

 

[begreen]

This stove has the air control at the top above the door, correct? Does it have a set of screws on the left and right that allow it to be detached from the stove? If so, it should be relatively easy to remove and service. Depending on the design, graphite powder or never-seez lubricant should get things moving freely again.

 

[GreenMountainBoy]

This stove has the air control at the top above the door, correct? Does it have a set of screws on the left and right that allow it to be detached from the stove? If so, it should be relatively easy to remove and service. Depending on the design, graphite powder or never-seez lubricant should get things moving freely again.

The location is correct - top right front. I know there's a plate on there, but memory fails me as to whether there are a couple of tiny screws holding it on. I'll check it when I get home. If there are it will be an easy fix, you're right. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks, begreen!!

 

[GreenMountainBoy]

The location is correct - top right front. I know there's a plate on there, but memory fails me as to whether there are a couple of tiny screws holding it on. I'll check it when I get home. If there are it will be an easy fix, you're right. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks, begreen!!

So , there are no screws attaching the air control plate. There is a cylindrical bore cut out of the extreme top right of the plate however. I suppose there could be one screw way down into that bore. I'll have to check that next. But if there is no screw in there, the air control plate looks to be either a) an integral part of the stove body itself or b) epoxied on there so well it doesn't even look like it's been epoxied.

Assuming no screw in the bore, what next?

 

[begreen]

Yes, examine those hole with a bright flashlight to see if there is a screw at the bottom. The manual's illustration shows 2, one on each side.


I would try to figure out how it was assembled at the factory. Hopefully, they have made this serviceable. The air is fed to the air wash which has a deflector. Is the deflector removable or welded in?



If nothing else works, you could try blasting into the damper control slot with some silicone spray to see if that loosens things up.

 

[GreenMountainBoy]

Yes, examine those hole with a bright flashlight to see if there is a screw at the bottom. The manual's illustration shows 2, one on each side.
View attachment 296243

I would try to figure out how it was assembled at the factory. Hopefully, they have made this serviceable. The air is fed to the air wash which has a deflector. Is the deflector removable or welded in?

View attachment 296244

If nothing else works, you could try blasting into the damper control slot with some silicone spray to see if that loosens things up.

The drawings are a HUGE help! They give me a great idea what I'm dealing with internal structure-speaking. I did entertain the idea of blasting silicone spray in there, but I'm saving that as a last resort since I figure it'll stink to high heaven the first time the stove gets hot this coming season.

While on that topic, do you think PV oil would work also if I could direct it accurately to where it needs to go?

 

[begreen]

If you use pure silicone spray it will not stink. PV oil most likely will. Graphite would be an alternate choice. with no odor.