Suggestions for Englander NC 13

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sbtcabman

Member
Jan 30, 2022
18
valley forge area PA
Well, I think I spent more time searching FB and CL the last four days than studying for college finals in '74. But they both paid off. I hope. I just found an NC 13 from 10/03 that was never ever used. I immediately felt an affinity for it because it has my birth month as well. Got a great deal I hope at $200 even without the base/feet. You can still buy either for $250/$200 respectively. Really? Gasp. Choke. Well, y'all, what's wrong with cinder blocks?
Also, I know that this is likely a dirty bird stove vs a cat, but for the price? Gotta be more efficient than the 30 gallon piggy wiggy it will replace. So I'll increase my contribution to environmental charities. That'll salve my RC guilty conscience.
But the other burning question, so to speak, is whether or not it is worth the $125 bucks to buy the fan. Does that fan really make any difference?
The pig just had to go. Two cords yielded a full 5 gallon bucket of creosote from a 30 ft flue. It was fugly.

The young boy asked his father as he filled the wood stove, "Dad, are we pyromaniacs?" Yes, we are son. Ba da boom
 
Without the as tested legs, you don't have the as tested configuration. This means the r values listed in the manual aren't correct and you'd probably have to treat it like an unlisted stove, which insurance companies don't like.
 
Without the as tested legs, you don't have the as tested configuration. This means the r values listed in the manual aren't correct and you'd probably have to treat it like an unlisted stove, which insurance companies don't like.
EBL thanks for the thought! and, I might ask, conversely, who likes insurance companies? only when they cut the check of course.
in actuality, it will be on a metal table > 22" off the floor so I think that should trump 9" cast iron legs. the hearth is 30" off the floor. my house began life in 1740 as a grain mill so it has some unique qualities.
sometimes I can be too cheeky which is caused by my English genes. my bad :(
 
It's a good medium-sized heater and $200 is a good deal. If the table is 100% metal, with stout legs and top then it should be ok. It might be possible to bolt is right to the table using the leg bolt holes.

The 13-NC will need at least 15' of straight-up flue, more if there are some 90's in the flue path. And it will need dry wood. Give it those two ingredients and it's a nice stove.
 
I'd buy the legs, but that's me.

That being said, the 13 is an awesome heater. Love mine.

Caveat - be prepared for reloads every 4 - 5 hours. The firebox can't hold much more than that.
 
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“Awesome heater“ and “reload every 4-5 hours”.. Don’t belong in the same paragraph..
 
I'd buy the legs, but that's me.

That being said, the 13 is an awesome heater. Love mine.

Caveat - be prepared for reloads every 4 - 5 hours. The firebox can't hold much more than that.
I anticipate if it proves sufficient for this 3 story, center stairway, 5 level, 1400 ft2 abode then the reload will not be an issue just a cost of doing business. as a retired geezer, I spend a lot of time at mia casa. with the lofty dimensions of my hearth, it being raised up onto the table is au necessaire. glad you love yours too! thanks for the input! any thoughts about the fan? do you have one?
 
“Awesome heater“ and “reload every 4-5 hours”.. Don’t belong in the same paragraph..

In the case of the 13, it does. You have to know how to run it, which comes from experience.
 
It's a good medium-sized heater and $200 is a good deal. If the table is 100% metal, with stout legs and top then it should be ok. It might be possible to bolt is right to the table using the leg bolt holes.

The 13-NC will need at least 15' of straight-up flue, more if there are some 90's in the flue path. And it will need dry wood. Give it those two ingredients and it's a nice stove.
thanks BG! good advice and worth following. the pig is bolted so I will do the same with this. I have 30' of flue which more than makes up for personal short comings, sts.
 
but then again SG, life itself seems to be an oxymoron with all the morons we have encountered, eh? oops. maybe not politically correct.

You'll get a max reload from coals @ 6 hours. Better to figure 5.

I run the 13 on shifts. People working nights, and people working days, get it done. If I had to redo, I would have gone with a bigger firebox.
 
You'll get a max reload from coals @ 6 hours. Better to figure 5.

I run the 13 on shifts. People working nights, and people working days, get it done. If I had to redo, I would have gone with a bigger firebox.
You'll get a max reload from coals @ 6 hours. Better to figure 5.

I run the 13 on shifts. People working nights, and people working days, get it done. If I had to redo, I would have gone with a bigger firebox.
well Dix, guess I'll be working two shifts again like the old days ;lol but at least they won't be cold days, eh? ;)
 
thanks BG! good advice and worth following. the pig is bolted so I will do the same with this. I have 30' of flue which more than makes up for personal short comings, sts.
With a 30's stack, you may want to add a stovepipe damper unless this is in a negative pressure zone.
 
With a 30's stack, you may want to add a stovepipe damper unless this is in a negative pressure zone.
thanks BG! I intend to keep the Piggy damper in place and have a Flueguard probe thermometer to install before elbow where flue disappears up the chimchiminey. I have two elbows, one at the stove and one at the vertical flue, a 33" run from elbow to elbow with a slight incline. my intent is to keep the probe at about the 675 mark. I think that is a prudent temp with a 30 foot flue. the bloke is installing the vermiculite tomorrow to aid in insulating. first a bottom plate with a plug of portland/vermic to prevent seepage, then loose fill to top (11 bags of 4 cu ft on standby), and a water tight topper. next fall, refill what has settled down. then, consider another plug at the top depending upon amount of settling. as the saying goes, it all sounds good in theory.
I am always feeling under pressure, but, this is 1956 construction, when oil was say 10 cents a gallon, and is anything but too tightly sealed. 80% of the exterior is about 2 foot thick stone and we know the heat sucking characteristics of stone.
 
The block-off plate will need to be strong and well sealed around the edges. How are they going to ensure the vermiculite is evenly distributed around the circumference of the liner for the full length?
 
The block-off plate will need to be strong and well sealed around the edges. How are they going to ensure the vermiculite is evenly distributed around the circumference of the liner for the full length?
the flue installer has addressed the plate issue and it will be alum plate and well secured and sealed. I will inject myself into the QC.
even distribution is left to manipulating/shaking/vibrating the SS HomeSaver flue, the fire doG, gravity and s-luck, imho. thus the addition of vermic in the future to account for settling.
there is no panacea except a $15k bladder job with the poured in "magic mud". I don't expect to be wodstovin' in 6 years which also is a factor.
 
The best solution is to pull the liner and wrap it with insulation blanket. That ensures full coverage.
 
still hoping for some fanny news here friends! is this fan accessory a lot of hot air? just use a floor fan? hire some hotties to fan the flames? help me out here please 😈
No fan here. I do use $8 box fans from Walmart to move the air when it gets really cold. Other than that, it's ceiling fans.