Summit stove glowing yikes!

[minesmoria]

I filled the summit right up with small alder rounds, left the damper on half way anf 1 hour later the stove top around the flue collar, stove pipe area was glowing red about 4 inches around it.

I then shut the damper down and put the fan on and a few minutes later the glow was gone.

Do you think the steel got damged from this, it was not for long.

Never thought this would happen to me.

 

[begreen]

Yes, small rounds of dry alder will burn quickly. You have a tallish stack, so it's drawing hard. Seems like you'll need to regulate it a bit more closely or add some larger rounds to slow the burn down a bit. There is the option of adding a draft damper if needed.

 

[Hogwildz]

Put some larger splits & rounds in that thing and just a few small splits.
Also make sure your door is adjusted, which is not done at factory. If you don't adjust the door, it will run like a freight train, and you won't be able to control the fire.

 

[Gunner]

May I ask why the stove was FULL and air open to 50% for 1hr during thr first week of september? Do you live in the arctic circle.

With a large firebox filling it with small wood is asking for trouble. When charring a new full load you have to keep your eye on it, it can go from hot to molten in a few minutes. I usually char a load for 15-20 mins at maybe 25% air.

 

[BrotherBart]

There are enough new Summits popping up out there that it is probably time for one of you guys to post a "How to start'er and burn'er post for them before the season kicks off.

With a chill in the air some mornings folks are gonna just have to light them up.

 

[Burn-1]

With a chill in the air some mornings folks are gonna just have to light them up.

At least I bet they glow a nice shade of whorehouse red

 

[Hogwildz]

That musta been well over 800°
I was having pegged thermometer before adjusting my door, and mine never was glowing.

 

[minesmoria]

:question:

I wonder if i should get a stove pipe thermometer, i have double wall pipe so i would hasve to get the one that you place inside the pipe.

 

[begreen]

It doesn't hurt and lets you know about how the stove is performing. I have a Condor probe thermometer on my double-wall stack.

 

[Hogwildz]

:question:

I wonder if i should get a stove pipe thermometer, i have double wall pipe so i would have to get the one that you place inside the pipe.

You can use a surface mount on the insert face just above the door on either corner. I have one on each corner

 

[Gunner]

Good idea to get one, you may want one for the stovetop as well. The stack thermo will react quicker than the stovetop type.

You will only need to FILL your summit on the coldest of nights or when your going to be away for awhile or want an extended burn. When you do fill it, use large pieces and unsplit rounds, (5-8") the bigger the better. Larger pieces and tightly placing the wood will give you a longer more even burn. More importantly don't leave the air open so much for so long, as soon as the wood looks like it can support itself start cutting the air back.
I run the air closed all the way down on mine 90% of the time. I control the heat by the amount/size/placement of the wood. I let the EBT do it's thing and feel I get better "mileage" this way.

 

[Gunner]

I had an accident with the bold button :lol:

 

[minesmoria]

I have the classic red one as well, and the stove top ones would not work unless i took ofthe top grill. So the pipe one would be more effective and would it be a good idea to put furnace cement around the inside of the pipe around the probe?

 

[stoveguy2esw]

did it harm the painted surface? just to get an idea how hot it got , if it burned up the paint , check the rating on the paint , most are 1200 degrees or higher. if it was glowing i'd bet you were above 800 degrees. might have got away with it this time but its not somthing that should be done again. and you might check the guts before you fire it again to see if anything got distorted, and as hog said , check the door seat and get a thermometer , i run one on the cat and one in the stack 18 inches up (condar probes)

 

[minesmoria]

I just cleaned the chimney out and took the baffle down, and all is fine needs new a baffle gasket which i course i have extra.

Also i ordered the temperature probe, for the double wall pipe.

 

[BrotherBart]

Everybody keeps talking about those baffle gaskets for the Summits. How much are those things? Couple of bucks?

 

[Gunner]

Ya, they are 3 or 4 bucks...

 

[Hogwildz]

I bought 3 for I think $3.80 each from Tom at Chimney Sweeps. And a buck sumpin postage.

 

[michiganwinters]

Question??? What or why do you have to adjust the door on the Summit.....does it not seat right for a air tight seal? And do the summits use alot of the gaskets? I assume its for the unit itself as Ive heard inline dampners are no good?

 

[Gunner]

Yes, the door needs to be adjusted when you first get it and checked every now and then. Standard operating procedure with any stove.

The Summit has 2 gaskets, 1 on the door and 1 at the baffle/secondary air intake.

 

[rich81]

Put some larger splits & rounds in that thing and just a few small splits.
Also make sure your door is adjusted, which is not done at factory. If you don't adjust the door, it will run like a freight train, and you won't be able to control the fire.

adjust the door? what does that entail? had my sup 27 for a couple of years and does seem to burn through wood at a good clip or is it just on the summit?

 

[Gunner]

Tom "thechimneysweep" said it best

Hog,

Sorry I just revisited this thread and didn’t chime in earlier about adjusting your door. PE stoves are shipped separately from the doors, so the first time your door saw your stove was when you hung it on there. Because of variances in manufacture and assembly of the stove, door assembly and latch, a little latch adjustment is almost always needed during setup. The idea behind PE’s door design is that the “catch” on the stove pulls the door inward when you turn the handle, causing the knife edge around the perimeter of the door opening to dig into the door gasket. To tighten the fit, we tap on the very top of the catch lightly with a hammer, test-closing between taps until we feel strong resistance when we turn the handle. If you tap too hard and the handle won’t engage the catch, use the handle of a crescent wrench to pry the catch back out a bit.

 

[Jfk4th]

Put some larger splits & rounds in that thing and just a few small splits.
Also make sure your door is adjusted, which is not done at factory. If you don't adjust the door, it will run like a freight train, and you won't be able to control the fire.

Hog,
Can you tell me(us) how to adjust the door, I am sure you have said what to do but I am too lazy to look
Thanks fellow Summit owner

 

[elkimmeg]

Gees I go fishing a couple days and come back and there is a problem in paradise. Every stove will have a problem loading it up with small twigs.
If you have a lot of them, mix them in with larger splits or only half fill the fire box with little dry rounds.

Be carefull there this is not the way to go running such a nice stove

 

[North of 60]

.

Every stove will have a problem loading it up with small twigs

.
False A properly air tight CAT does not have a problem burning twigs. THey should not over fire unless there is an uncotrollable air leak. Turn the stat down, flame goes out Cat lights up. Unless a CAT is not clasified as a stove. Which I think it is. :exclaim: