But something fireproof perhaps.It just needs to be covered not nessecarily with drywall.
But something fireproof perhaps.It just needs to be covered not nessecarily with drywall.
Drywall is not fireproof it is just rated tonresist burnthrough for a certain period of time. Just as solid wood is. Actually 1" of solid wood is pretty close to 1/2" drywall.But something fireproof perhaps.
Drywall is not fireproof it is just rated tonresist burnthrough for a certain period of time. Just as solid wood is. Actually 1" of solid wood is pretty close to 1/2" drywall.
Fire rated is drywall is at least 5/8" thick. Not aware of any 1/2 fire rated drywall. Probably a better term is fire resistant not fire proof. Off gassing of Foam board would be another good reason to apply it to the exterior of the wall under the siding. The main reason is to satisfy the 1/3 - 2/3s rule for severe climates.Drywall is not fireproof it is just rated tonresist burnthrough for a certain period of time. Just as solid wood is. Actually 1" of solid wood is pretty close to 1/2" drywall.
1/2" drywall is fire rated as well. Most products have a fire rating. But yes if you are building an actual fire wall you need 5/8" but you need 2 layers with the first taped then staggered seams. I believe that gives you 2 hours. 1/2" is 30 mins I believe. But it has been a while since I have done any of that work so my numbers could be offFire rated is drywall is at least 5/8" thick. Not aware of any 1/2 fire rated drywall. Probably a better term is fire resistant not fire proof. Off gassing of Foam board would be another good reason to apply it to the exterior of the wall under the siding. The main reason is to satisfy the 1/3 - 2/3s rule for severe climates.
Its pretty simple. The biggest hassle is the electrical boxes. You can either use standard boxes and space them out from the wall to account for the extra thickness or you can buy box extenders that screw onto the face of the box. I use 1/2" foil faced isoboard which is pretty dense and the foil tends to spread point loads out plus the dry wall works pretty well to spread the load. I use 1/2 drywall, I dont know if 3/8" is still made but would suggest 1/2" is better choice. I use a couple of roofing nails to hold the iso board up, then tape all the seams and breaks in the foils with foil tape then use long drywall screws with a dry wall screw gunto hold the dry wall up. I did my office (bedroom) exterior walls and have had a couple of nail pops and my living room wall with no nail pops. Its been 10 years and I dont see a lot of difference between the new walls and the old walls with respect to nail pops.
Would 3/8" cement board suffice? Is this process less expensive or faster than using the Rockwood exterior Comfortboard?And 1/2 inch is the thinnest drywall that I use. Some of my rooms have 5/8 on the ceilings, but with my last remodel, I just used 1/2 and put more screws in; I had no desire to wrestle a full 5/8 sheet overhead.
I know this is aside from your primary point, but this is not correct. Nothing is done just because that’s how it was always done. If it’s not presently the “right” way to do it, it likely once was the “right” way. It’s just a matter of timing and technology.There are two reasons why something like framing has always been done the same way... its the right way to do it or its just how its always been done. To much of what is done in our society is only done because that's how it was always done. l
Yes I left that part of the point I was trying to make out. Things change over time and unfortunately we take to long to change simply because it is change.I know this is aside from your primary point, but this is not correct. Nothing is done just because that’s how it was always done. If it’s not presently the “right” way to do it, it likely once was the “right” way. It’s just a matter of timing and technology.
And you forgot the third reason, someone profiting from it. [emoji14]
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