T5 performance update

[raybonz]

In case I decide or need to replace the gasket what size gasket do I need? It looks around 1/2" but I am not certain..

Thanks,
Ray

 

[raybonz]

Tom at the Chimneysweep has been using silicone Some folks like Meeco Red Devil: http://www.amazon.com/MEECOS-110-Gasket-Cement-Sealer/dp/B000LNWLDU
I have used Meeco Thermoseal with good results. Follow the directions and don't use too much or the gasket will become hard.
Craig likes Heat Safe:https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_gasket
more tips:
http://www.woodheat.org/maintenance.html

I think the Meeco's is very similar to what Madison posted and you get 3 oz. for the same price as the other brand 2.3 oz. size which should be enough to do the door..

Ray

 

[begreen]

It sounded like Rutland is very thick. Meeco's Thermoseal is quite liquidy. Not sure about the Red Devil product.

 

[raybonz]

It sounded like Rutland is very thick. Meeco's is quite liquidy.

Would that be a bad thing being "liquidy" ?

 

[begreen]

No, as long as you have the door off, laying horizontally. Otherwise you'll have a drippy mess. It will soak up into the gasket. If you use too much it will turn the gasket to rock when cured. (Don't ask how I know .)

 

[madison]

Ray,

The t6 was 3/8" graphite impregnated. You can get the OEM gasket from chimneysweep - but if I recall - it was ~ $36 (i may be off on that it was a cpl yrs ago when I called).

I got the job done on the t6 with one tube of the rutland. the meeco is also rated to 2000 - i have not used it so i can not comment on its qualities. IMHO the thicker would be less likely to cause any messes with drips, squeezeouts etc

 

[raybonz]

Ray,

The t6 was 3/8" graphite impregnated. You can get the OEM gasket from chimneysweep - but if I recall - it was ~ $36 (i may be off on that it was a cpl yrs ago when I called).

I got the job done on the t6 with one tube of the rutland. the meeco is also rated to 2000 - i have not used it so i can not comment on its qualities. IMHO the thicker would be less likely to cause any messes with drips, squeezeouts etc

Yes thanks I am leaning towards the stuff you mentioned as it shouldn't soak into the gasket which is a plus.. I will pick up some 3/8" graphite rope gasket as well in case I decide to just replace the gasket but it is in good shape..

Thanks,
Ray

 

[raybonz]

No, as long as you have the door off, laying horizontally. Otherwise you'll have a drippy mess. It will soak up into the gasket. If you use too much it will turn the gasket to rock when cured. (Don't ask how I know .)

I am leaning towards the thicker stuff as I think will be a plus in regards to gasket pliability..

Thanks,
Ray

 

[madison]

Ray,

I'ld replace the gasket - graphite impregnated, when you remove the old gasket, it will have residue from the old adhesive which may reduce the bond. Just follow the instructions that Tom posted a while back here - basically don't stretch the new gasket when you replace it, leave some "slack" at the corners, start and stop at the bottom inside corner (contrary to the instuctions linked above in begreens post). My original gasket had some type of "splice" covering the start/stop - don't bother attempting to copy that - i still can't figure how they did that.

Too lazy at this moment, but I think you could search and find tom's directions somewhere in this forum - ~ yr or so ago.... otherwise, follow begreens link above.

 

[raybonz]

Ray,

I'ld replace the gasket - graphite impregnated, when you remove the old gasket, it will have residue from the old adhesive which may reduce the bond. Just follow the instructions that Tom posted a while back here - basically don't stretch the new gasket when you replace it, leave some "slack" at the corners, start and stop at the bottom inside corner (contrary to the instuctions linked above in begreens post). My original gasket had some type of "splice" covering the start/stop - don't bother attempting to copy that - i still can't figure how they did that.

Too lazy at this moment, but I think you could search and find tom's (chimneysweeponline) directions somewhere in this forum - ~ yr or so ago....

Same technique I used on my CDW. Yes there is a "splice" in the bottom center of the gasket pretty cool but don't know how they did that..

Ray

 

[Shadow&Flame]

Sorry I have been missing these great threads...will have to read it thru. World has been kicking me around pretty hard and I have had no time
to even look in on you guys. Still loving my T5...great stove!

Keep up the good work and I hope to be back reading and posting again soon...

 

[niagara]

I've decided on the T5 as well for our new addition.

I had a very interesting conversation from a local stove dealer who carries PE. They recommend upgrading to a T6 because, based on customer feedback, the T5 doesn't throw enough heat. Apparently the cast-iron shell blocks much of the heat.

This doesn't make sense to me. I would think that eventually the cast-iron would reach an equilibrium temperature then would radiate the same amount of heat that it absorbs.

Any thoughts on this? I know the dealer and they're not trying to push me into a pricier model. Simply what they've heard from customer feedback.

 

[begreen]

Your dealer is giving you good advice. Considering that you are adding 540 sq ft with a high ceiling and this is area is attached to an old house, going up to the T6 wouldn't hurt.The T5 will do the job, but the T6 will provide more reserve capacity for the really cold days and nights. That is unless the stove is primarily meant to heat the new space and not the whole house. If you are only trying to heat the sunroom with a little gain for the rest of the house the T5 should be adequate.

The Alderleas are convection stoves. Most complaints about "not throwing off enough heat" are from folks looking for a radiant stove, often in a large open space. The T5 and T6 do not radiate a lot of heat from the sides or back, just the front and top. That makes them ideal for close clearance installations.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/would-this-convection-setup-work.110625/

 

[niagara]

The Cardinal concurs

 

[madison]

Ditto Begreens response.

You will enjoy the extra firebox volume on the t6.

If you have experienced or owned radiant stoves, there is a real difference on heat that you "feel" vs a convection stove.

My only advice is when you plan your hearth location, allow for an electrical outlet, as I find the blower very useful for moderating heat output with various firebox loads and with various ambient room temperatures. the blower can be added quite easily (two phillips head screws) if you don't want to fork out the extra ~$250 initially.

 

[Woody Stover]

Ray,

I'ld replace the gasket - graphite impregnated, when you remove the old gasket, it will have residue from the old adhesive which may reduce the bond. Just follow the instructions that Tom posted a while back here - basically don't stretch the new gasket when you replace it, leave some "slack" at the corners, start and stop at the bottom inside corner (contrary to the instuctions linked above in begreens post). My original gasket had some type of "splice" covering the start/stop - don't bother attempting to copy that - i still can't figure how they did that.

Did you have the gasket off to look at the "splice" close up? From the pics, looks like it could just be a piece of thin gasket, like glass gasket, glued over the top of where the ends of the main gasket meet and can fray, creating an air gap. I had a leak at that seam on the ash pan of the Buck 91. I used Tom's suggestion of starting at a corner, then butting the end of the gasket into the side of the other end, instead of butting two fraying ends up to each other. I also used silicone, and put a bit on the ends of the gasket to prevent fraying. If you try that, put some waxed paper or something over that section to make sure it doesn't stick to the door frame. Silicone I used was 650* stuff I got at an auto parts store. The door doesn't get near that hot according to the IR gun. I also have a caulk-size tube of some 1000 degree, but don't really want to open that until I need a lot of it at one time. Need to find that 1000 stuff in a small tube...

 

[raybonz]

Did you have the gasket off to look at the "splice" close up? From the pics, looks like it could just be a piece of thin gasket, like glass gasket, glued over the top of where the ends of the main gasket meet and can fray, creating an air gap. I had a leak at that seam on the ash pan of the Buck 91. I used Tom's suggestion of starting at a corner, then butting the end of the gasket into the side of the other end, instead of butting two fraying ends up to each other. I also used silicone, and put a bit on the ends of the gasket to prevent fraying. If you try that, put some waxed paper or something over that section to make sure it doesn't stick to the door frame. Silicone I used was 650* stuff I got at an auto parts store. The door doesn't get near that hot according to the IR gun. I also have a caulk-size tube of some 1000 degree, but don't really want to open that until I need a lot of it at one time. Need to find that 1000 stuff in a small tube...

Nope haven't replaced the gasket yet and I am in no hurry for a while.. I used to do mine into a corner on my CDW too and that worked fine.. The location of this gasket doesn't see half the heat the CDW did..

Ray