Tanaka ECV-5601

[russb]

Found a used one I might be able to get for less than $300. Maybe much less depending on how things play out. Anybody have experience with these things? It's an online deal so I can't look at it before buying it unfortunately.

Background: I'm a scrounger, sometimes I come across large diameter logs but not too often. I do currently have an opportunity to grab some bigger stuff, and my 36cc, 16" Craftsman saw is slowing me down badly. I'm a one-saw type of guy, and I'm on a severely restricted budget. I'd love a Stihl MS-361, but can't do it right now. In fact, if I can't get the Tanaka for somewhere around $200 it's probably a no-go. I thought this might be an opportunity to get a decent saw on a budget, and one I could stick with for several years.

Questions:
Anyone own one and have general thoughts?
Do they pull and oil well enough with the 20" bar? It seems stock, but I'd have expected an 18" setup.
Is this enough of an upgrade over my 36cc saw? My thought is "yes". The biggest saw I've ever used was a homeowner grade Husqvarna at 40-something cc, and that cut a bunch better than my 36cc saw does.
Any common problems I should ask about, other than asking about compression (I'll just ask them to pick it up by the pull and tell me what happens)?

 

[Jon1270]

I have no personal experience with them, but a little searching suggests they're good saws, and $200 would be a reasonable price if it's fully functional and in good condition. How big are the "large diameter logs" you want to cut? 50cc is not a big saw, and a 20" bar on it might work for limbing but I woudln't expect it to do well if you were trying to use that full length for bucking.

 

[russb]

I don't think I've tackled much over 24" yet, but the best wood in the pile I'm thinking of is over 24" I'd guess. If the saw could handle up to 36" logs, max, I could probably make out pretty well. Keep in mind I'm cutting the 24" stuff with my 16", 36cc saw, so my standards aren't as high as some.

 

[russb]

Also, I just ran across a $200 Craigslist posting for an Echo CS-590 (refurbished; firm price). I emailed on it, but am I right in thinking that would be a better deal than the Tanaka at the same price?

Also, I've found a couple 029 deals that match the Tanaka (here's one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-029-G...e-/291282161354?ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:US:1653), so I might pass on it and keep looking at these more common models.

 

[Danno77]

In this order for $200
The Echo
The Tanaka
the MS290

20" on 50cc is totally not a big deal, it just goes a little slower and you have to let the saw do the work.

 

[russb]

Thanks. Hopefully I'll hear back on the Echo CS-590. $200 seems like a good deal, though it's a refurb. I'll try to get a sense how it's been used.

I have a couple days to decide on the Tanaka.

 

[russb]

The Echo is gone. So I'm considering the Tanaka now. I'm not necessarily in a huge hurry so might hold off a bit if I don't pull the trigger on this one.

 

[Jon1270]

That's the way to approach it; if you need a bargain then learn more about different models so you know what you want and can recognize a good deal when it comes along.

 

[Jon1270]

The nice thing about the better saws from Husqvarna and especially Stihl is that they depreciate fairly slowly so if you take care of one you can use it for a while, then clean it up and resell later without losing much.

If you had $300 or so to work with, I'd tell you to look for a nice Husky 359. Something tells me that that model would be about perfect for you.

 

[russb]

Thanks a lot, will look into it. While I have you here, how about a Husqvarna 460? I could grab one for $275, "barely used", "literally a couple trees", according to the owner. That price will be a hard sell to the purchasing department (my wife) around here, but I might be able to work. I was thinking about trying to get him to $250. Would the 359 for $300 be a better deal? I'll be doing 5-7 cords per year most likely, limbing with my little Craftsman most likely.

 

[Jon1270]

Haven't used a 460. I get the impression they're decent larger homeowner saws, i.e. clamshell engines in a plastic chassis. The 359 is virtually a pro saw, with a magnesium crankcase and removable cylinder. Price aside, the 359 is definitely the better machine. The 460 will be a little heavier, less powerful and, in the long run, harder to maintain, but maybe I'm being too idealistic about it? I have no reason to think they're bad saws.

FWIW, my standard approach to estimating a reasonable price for a saw on CL is to take 75% of what the same model in similar condition goes for on eBay. So, if the CL price is $275 then I'd expect the saw to be as nice as ones that go for $366 (not including shipping) on eBay. Do a search of already-sold saws, sort them by price, and you can see that $369 will get you a factory reconditioned 460 with free shipping, so I'd say the $275 CL saw is probably priced a little high unless it's very clean and virtually flawless.

 

[russb]

Looks pretty new, and he says it's been used for a couple trees:

Thanks for responding and giving me food for thought. It's helped quite a bit. I might see if I can get him to do it for $250, then go look at it this weekend. It'd be good to try one out anyway. I do hate the idea of having a 60-cc saw that is heavier, underpowered (thought still probably plenty good enough for what I need), harder to work on, and less reliable compared to other 60-cc saws for a bit more money. While I'm just using it for firewood, I'd like it to have it running strong for ten years or so.

 

[Jon1270]

I'd like it to have it running strong for ten years or so.

That's not such a high bar to clear if you take good care of it and make sure it gets serviced, by you or someone else, if it starts to run poorly. The broken saws I buy are typically victims of neglect, not wear.

 

[Jags]

460 for $250 OR
359 for $300.

Ummmm...unless this is gonna take food out of your mouth, the 359 is a far superior saw. Its fitty bucks difference for something you hope to own for years. 5 to 7 cords is a fair amount of cutting. Just one dudes opinion.

 

[russb]

I hear you. The practically new nature of the 460 doesn't change the equation?

I'll keep scouring for a deal. Should I be scared off by a refurbed 359? "Starts right up and runs great it is burnt a little right above the muffler and scratches on the saw as seen in the photos". Any red lights? I'll try to find out why it wasn't working.

 

[Jags]

Yeah - I would maybe check into the reason for the refurb as well as who actually did the refurb. If Jon (above) did it, I wouldn't question it. If a hack like myself did it, I would sell it.

 

[Jon1270]

The 359 has an Achilles' heel, one shared by a bunch of 300-series Huskys. The clamp holding the intake boot to the cylinder was originally plastic, and the plastic clamp eventually loosens or breaks, causing an air leak that can ruin the top end. Aftermarket replacement top ends vary in quality, so if the refurb included a new top end then I'd want to know the brand. I'd much prefer to get one with the original cylinder. Husky redesigned the intake, and the newer version with a metal clamp is only about $10 and not too hard to install.

 

[Jon1270]

FWIW, there's a nice 359 up for sale on Arboristsite right now. It's $325+shipping, so probably not in the budget right now, but keep that sort of thing in mind as a possibility. Those longtime members selling on AS have to protect their reputations, unlike some CL seller you meet in a parking lot.

 

[russb]

Excellent point. I've only poked around over there (just joined a couple days ago), but most of those guys seem to know what they're doing.

 

[Jon1270]

Working on saws isn't difficult. There are a few basic principles to wrap your head around, a few specialized tools to acquire, and a lot of parts sources to get familiar with. After that it's mostly taking saws apart, cleaning all the parts, replacing the broken parts, putting it back together, testing and tuning. I think of myself as a chainsaw janitor, because cleaning is about 70% of the work I do on them. After its clean the diagnostics and repair are usually easy.

 

[russb]

I've done a little work on mine. It wasn't working when it was given to me, but one of the fuel lines was disconnected! I've now cleaned the carb, replaced the air filter,replaced the plug, and been playing with getting the tune right. Oh yeah replaced the fuel lines later, as well; should have done that immediately since that's probably why it slipped off in the first place. But I'm not scared to wreck my little Craftsman; it was free. I also took the opportunity to learn to file the chain (only just recently realized my rakers need filing, too). So I like tinkering, it's just that everything takes longer the first time you do it. I just watched a vid on replacing the intake boot on the 359, looks pretty straightforward.

 

[Jon1270]

Yep, the hardest part of the intake boot install is getting the ends of the metal clamp to hook together. The rest is cake.

 

[russb]

Have a beat on a 359, for less than $300. Seller said no repairs have been necessary; 18" bar. I'd need to drive almost two hours for it. Maybe if I can talk him to the low-mid $200s.

 

[Jon1270]

Hope that works out for you. If you get it, update the intake.

 

[russb]

Nope, seller stopped responding. One more email in to him with a fairly low offer.

But, I found a MS290, listed for $175, haven't yet tried to talk him down. I'd rather get the 359 but considering the 290 as a backup plan.