Tee in place of elbow to feed chimney through wall?

[Badfish740]

I'm getting ever closer to installing an Englander 28-3500 in my basement but I still need to work out a plan for the chimney. I have a supplier that can get me Class A double wall stainless exterior chimney pipe at cost-the caveat being that they don't sell interior stove pipe so I would have to go elsewhere and pay full price. This of course is a problem because there is no such thing as a Class A exterior elbow. However, I thought of a solution. I made a quick and dirty diagram in MS Paint in case my explanation doesn't make sense-basically my idea is this: Run a 36" length of chimney pipe out of the top of the stove, mount a tee on top of that which would take the place of a 90 degree elbow with the long side running horizontally, run another 36" length of pipe through the wall thimble to the outside, and then run the chimney as normal up the side of the house, using a second tee. The chimney will be roughly 24' (8 36" sections) plus the tee at the bottom. The highest point on the roof is 21'. Should I maybe go 27' or 30' to be sure that I don't have any draft issues since I'm using two tees?

 

[Brian VT]

That can work and you won't have to disassemble to clean the horizontal. I almost installed that same setup.
You will have to convert from class A to stovepipe at some point below the inside tee. Make sure you meet clearances for that single wall pipe.
The height of your chimney 1st depends on the 2'/10' rule. Meet that and see how it does. If it needs more draft you can add height later.
You could paint the class A if you want. I sprayed the part of mine that shows inside. I just wiped it down with denatured alcohol and hit it with black stove paint.

 

[Badfish740]

That can work and you won't have to disassemble to clean the horizontal. I almost installed that same setup.
You will have to convert from class A to stovepipe at some point below the inside tee. Make sure you meet clearances for that single wall pipe.
The height of your chimney 1st depends on the 2'/10' rule. Meet that and see how it does. If it needs more draft you can add height later.

Two questions:

First-I'm assuming I have to convert from Class A to stovepipe because Class A won't connect to the stove. Can I use a Class A/stovepipe adapter at the outlet of the stove in order to transition to Class A?

Next-I just want to make sure I'm understanding the 2'/10' rule. The highest point on my house is 21' (The oil burner chimney which will be located about 24" from the woodstove chimney) so the height of the chimney will be 24' which means it's 3' higher than the oil burner chimney which of course is less than 10' away.

 

[Shipper50]

I have that furnace in my basement and my one suggestion is, at your outside tee put a cap on the bottom you can take off easily. I seem to get creosote flakes and water in the bottom of mine every now and then and I just pull the bottom off and clean it out.

Shipper

 

[Brian VT]

Two questions:

First-I'm assuming I have to convert from Class A to stovepipe because Class A won't connect to the stove. Can I use a Class A/stovepipe adapter at the outlet of the stove in order to transition to Class A?

Next-I just want to make sure I'm understanding the 2'/10' rule. The highest point on my house is 21' (The oil burner chimney which will be located about 24" from the woodstove chimney) so the height of the chimney will be 24' which means it's 3' higher than the oil burner chimney which of course is less than 10' away.

The conversion will depend on your stove's collar and the distance between it and the tee. They don't make an adjustable-length class A section and you can't cut it to length.

From selkirk: "All chimneys must extend a minimum of 3 feet above the roof surface and 2 feet higher than any part of the building within 10 feet."
I'd be mostly concerned with the actual roof or any dormers, etc. Your other chimney, being inside this 10', may be an exception. That is assuming it's made of all non-combustible materials.