Temp difference

[Louis]

I just got a condar inferno to replace my amazon thermometer. Placed it on the step and placed the old one above that.
Is there really a 100° difference just 2 inches north of a spot. My condar also seems to be reading quite high compared to the IR gun.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Your spring gauge can easily be off 100 degrees, most of my rutlands are. The laser gauges can be off a little as well. Looks like a nice clean burn in the stove.

 

[Louis]

Ok, what I think I’ll need to is swap thermos and and measure with the Ir gun which is closest, and use that. Had high hopes for the condar, but seems to be off way more then the cheaper amazon thermo ( compared with the IR gun in their spots)

 

[Woody Stover]

My Infernos are pretty close to what the gun is showing. Are they adjustable? Maybe you could moisten the rivet with a little lube, then turn it from the bottom? Take a pic of it when it's cold. Mine looks like it zeros out pretty well..

 

[Louis]

I don’t believe they are adjustable. I switched the thermos spots and condar seems to still be reading excessively high.
Pics followed.
Also, tried uploading a video to show secondaries.. is this the “lazy flame “ described when secondaries are lit or is the flame still too rapid to have a long / good burn. Air was turned down in increments from 4/450°. Air control knob is now 1/4 inch behind the ash plate. What I assume is 10-15% open air.

 

[Woody Stover]

I don’t believe they are adjustable. I switched the thermos spots and condar seems to still be reading excessively high.....is this the “lazy flame “ described when secondaries are lit or is the flame still too rapid to have a long / good burn.

If it is still reading the same amount of degrees off, at low or high temp, I would think turning the spring mount in relation to the dial face would correct it. Or if this was the case, just write "-70" or whatever on the white part of the range.
I would think you could burn a little lower and still get good secondary action. What happens when you cut the air more?

 

[Louis]

Haven’t attempted to cut the air any further then 85-90% closed... was too worried to starve it completely.
The secondaries lasted for approximately 2 hours give or take and after they let off the temp quickly dropped. Four hours into the burn and temps on stove are 325/350° and pipe 16 inches up 200°
No longer burning efficiently, smoke coming out from chimney cap. Assuming this is what normally happens after the secondaries stop lighting? “Coaling stage” I think it’s called.
Last year had a terrible time burning, sub par wood and not so great draft.

this year wood is drier, chimney is lined so the burns are much better, starting and holding better. At the four hour mark with the stove at those temps from a relight with 8 or 9 splits

 

[Woody Stover]

Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on it. With those temps after four hrs. and smoky plume, I wouldn't cut the air lower, either. I'm new to secondary burning, and I'm not at my SIL's house to observe the entire burn, I just pop over and look at it once in a while. I think the plume stays pretty clean throughout, once the secondary kicks in, and secondary only drops out after all the smoke is gone (coaling stage, the way I see it.) But I'll have to get more looks before I'm convinced.
Depending how big the "8 or 9 splits" were, I think her T5 would have higher temps at four hrs. in. These are different-sized stoves though, and I think hers is burning a little slower with the air cut all the way, than what I'm seeing in your video.
How dry is your wood this year? Did you get a moisture meter reading on several re-splits at room temp?

 

[Louis]

Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on it. With those temps after four hrs. and smoky plume, I wouldn't cut the air lower, either. I'm new to secondary burning, and I'm not at my SIL's house to observe the entire burn, I just pop over and look at it once in a while. I think the plume stays pretty clean throughout, once the secondary kicks in, and secondary only drops out after all the smoke is gone (coaling stage, the way I see it.) But I'll have to get more looks before I'm convinced.
Depending how big the "8 or 9 splits" were, I think her T5 would have higher temps at four hrs. in. These are different-sized stoves though, and I think hers is burning a little slower with the air cut all the way, than what I'm seeing in your video.
How dry is your wood this year? Did you get a moisture meter reading on several re-splits at room temp?

I feel like I’m getting it down, a bit better then last season. Still have the new guy jitters with the higher temps. Just got it re stoked and back to 425 stope pipe temp and 650 stove top temp. Secondaries are going great. Have the air control in the same spot.

Just maybe thought I’d get a longer burn out of it. From start to reload it was roughly 6 hours. I guess that’s not bad for 8 or so medium splits. I just loaded it back with 4 larger splits, 4 mediums and a small guy up top. I should maybe try East west loading and or getting a tighter pile in there.

Have a moisture meter and with fresh splits I’m seeing different numbers throughout.. 14-20% .

 

[Louis]

Reading some spots with the IR gun ( and the magnetic thermo) and seeing some temps around 700°

From some readings on here that shouldn’t be a concern for the steel stove correct? Stove is England’s 30 nc

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Am I the only one who uses the gauge only as a rough idea on what's going on? I barely look at the thing. I get a much better idea from looking through the window.

 

[Woody Stover]

Just maybe thought I’d get a longer burn out of it. From start to reload it was roughly 6 hours. I guess that’s not bad for 8 or so medium splits. I just loaded it back with 4 larger splits, 4 mediums and a small guy up top. I should maybe try East west loading and or getting a tighter pile in there.

Yeah, doesn't sound like a long burn, and the fire looks like it's cranking. But if you need the BTUs it's cranking out, it's all good. For sure, E-W and packing the splits with less air between 'em will slow it down.

Reading some spots with the IR gun ( and the magnetic thermo) and seeing some temps around 700°
From some readings on here that shouldn’t be a concern for the steel stove correct? Stove is England’s 30 nc

Yeah, I saw the stove in your sig. 700 is no problem for that stove, from what I've read. I think @BrotherBart has had his to 1700 a couple times.

Am I the only one who uses the gauge only as a rough idea on what's going on? I barely look at the thing. I get a much better idea from looking through the window.

That's where I'm at with it, look at the flue meter, but mainly look at the fire to see how much wood is catching and whether secondaries look like they are kicking in, then adjust air accordingly.

 

[Ludlow]

IR guns are averaged for emissivity. A black target will read hotter and a white target lower. Mine came with a chart and can be calibrated depending on the target.

 

[heavy hammer]

I have two different temp gauges on my summit insert one on each side of the door on the top and I see a difference in temps probably about 100 degrees. I just figure that they are not calibrated that exact and as long as they run in the correct temp area I figure I'm good.

 

[Louis]

Am I the only one who uses the gauge only as a rough idea on what's going on? I barely look at the thing. I get a much better idea from looking through the window.

I’m getting there.. lol temps just worrying me. Last year I burned lower temps because I thought I was over firing at 550... this year trying to get it to get got. Touching 7s staying above 6 for a little while.