Thermometer for double walled pipe

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Peter Herrmann

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Oct 22, 2012
18
Poughkeepsie, New York
Hi everyone,

I have double wall stove pipe from the stove up to the ceiling. Apparently the magnetic thermometer I was using for my singlewall pipe will no longer work.

Can anyone recommend what sort of thermometer I should get for double walled stove pipe?

Thanks!

Pete


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Not really sure how to install this. Instructions say put the magnet on first, then the eyelet. The eyelet is too large to fit through the hole I just drilled, so it keeps the magnet from touching the pipe. Only seems to work right if I don't use the eyelet at all. Can anyone help? Thanks!


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Peter Herrmann said:
Not really sure how to install this. Instructions say put the magnet on first, then the eyelet. The eyelet is too large to fit through the hole I just drilled, so it keeps the magnet from touching the pipe. Only seems to work right if I don't use the eyelet at all. Can anyone help? Thanks!


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Click to expand...
Here's the way to do it:
1. Slip the magnet over the probe first.
2. The drilled hole should be 1/4". I just measured my eyelet as just under 1/4 with a digital caliper so it should fit fine.
3. Then slip the eyelet over the proble with the flange against the magnet. Yes, the eyelet flange will be against the magnet and between the pipe and the magnet. That is intended.
4. Now the whole thing should slip into the pipe with the eyelet in the pipe. The magnet will keep the thermometer held against the pipe, but is loose enough for it to swivel.

That may be a bit different than the instructions, but ends up correct.. BTW, it can wobble a little bit, but that's okay.

Good luck. You'll figure it out if the hole is 1/4"

Just one other thing. When you brush the flue, don't forget to pull the thermometer out first! ;)
 
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Maybe you drilled the 3/16 hole on the outside pipe? The 1/4 is for the eyelet on the outside. The 3/16 is drilled on only through the inside wall for the probe itself. This illustration is correct in case you don't have it: http://www.condar.com/Probe-Instructions-EN.html
 
Peter Herrmann said:
hopefully that's not gonna be a problem.....
Click to expand...
These things have quite a bit of wiggle anyway. A little more shouldn't matter. If it is a problem, all you would need to do is stabilize it somehow with hi temp cement. You do want to make it removable for cleaning of course...
 
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Just out of curiosity and lack of knowledge about this kind of stuff, why would you have a double walled chimney coming straight out of the stove?
 
it keeps the flue gasses hotter so you get less creosote formation and better draft
 
I can see that, but isn't class-A chimney beyond the wall/ceiling sufficient for that? I would think most folks would prefer single wall near the stove to benefit from some of the generated heat. I suppose if the chimney is too short class-A might be necessary for the entire length...
 
revdocjim said:
I can see that, but isn't class-A chimney beyond the wall/ceiling sufficient for that? I would think most folks would prefer single wall near the stove to benefit from some of the generated heat. I suppose if the chimney is too short class-A might be necessary for the entire length...
Click to expand...

Your clearances are greatly reduced using double wall pipe compared to single wall, and some installs (mobile homes around here for example) require it to meet code.

Double wall pipe running off the stove isn't exactly cold either, and is still radiating some heat.
 
Anther issue is that double wall is stainless inside and will last "nearly" forever (assuming good quality) Many single wall pipes are thin and not well constructed and is more prone to corrosion. But some are better than others. Good quality single wall can be okay for some time, but not compared to double. If you are going with single wall, at least get the best quality you can and burn with good burning habits (dry wood, no smoldering, etc) Avoid the cheap stuff you typically see in local hardware stores that snap together. They are generally of poorer quality. Check the integrity of single wall occasionally.

There are reports of some single wall pipe corroding within a few years, but they may be due to a combination of dirty, corrosive burning and poor quality, thin wall material. Hopefully, that kind of thing is unusual, but I think I'd be checking mine frequently.
 
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Double wall advantages ... longevity, clearances, draft.

As for the loss of heat ... heat with the stove, not the stove pipe.
 
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firefighterjake said:
heat with the stove, not the stove pipe.
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Yeah, I like that. Reminds me of a device that still may be sold that is installed in a stovepipe that is supposed to extract the "wasted" heat from the stovepipe to make it more efficient. I can't remember the name of it, but all it does is create creosote, reduce draft, etc, etc. Poor idea.
 
yes it's still around, and in about a month or so i'll wager someone will make a post asking about it.
 
Sprinter said:
Yeah, I like that. Reminds me of a device that still may be sold that is installed in a stovepipe that is supposed to extract the "wasted" heat from the stovepipe to make it more efficient. I can't remember the name of it, but all it does is create creosote, reduce draft, etc, etc. Poor idea.
Click to expand...

Magic Heater . . . and yeah . . . bad idea for a host of reasons.
 
firefighterjake said:
Magic Heater . . . and yeah . . . bad idea for a host of reasons.
Click to expand...
Right, that's it. And I've seen a few DIY varieties including wrapping copper tubing around the pipe (probably for water) and all kinds of weird stuff.
 
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