So I just installed new stove pipe to my ThermoPride WC-27 and installed a clean out t connector on the back of the stove. My first burn, just a little over 24 hours, I have creosote dripping from the bottom at the clean out cap and the joints of my 90 degree connector where they rotate. The wood I used is very dry, seasoned for almost 2 years. I also noticed creosote already building up around the door of the stove. I'm just baffled why the creosote already. I would appreciate any help. I have the over fire air drafts on the door closed. I have a barocheck draft regulator installed. The stove was installed sideways by the previous owner to line up with the duct work already in place so my stove pipe has one 90 and then about a 30 degree bend that connects to an 8 inch stainless steel flue liner and that liner is about 30 feet or so to the top of the chimney.
ThermoPride WC-27 first burn this year with creosote already!
- Thread starter jedi_jackson
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I don't have a moisture meter but it has been cut and stacked in a covered wood shed for 2 years now so I was assuming it should be very dry. It was a mix of poplar and locust.
Well if stuff is dripping that water is coming from somewhere.... Maybe your not keeping the flue warm enough?
My wood stove is controlled by a thermostat in the house with a mechanical damper. Do I need up the temperature in the house to do that and keep a hotter fire? I know my flue setup is not ideal either. I'm sorry, this is only my 3rd year burning wood and I'm still learning.
This is an old wood furnace, correct? It sounds like it is allowing the wood to smolder and the flue temps to drop below 250ºF. Creosote is condensing because of the low temps. A flue thermometer on the stovepipe will verify this. If there is a barometric damper on the stove pipe it will be even worse in the chimney. Does the chimney have an insulated ss liner sized to the furnace?
Explain how the furnace is being run from loading to continuous operation. How is the wood loaded? Are the overfire air ports open?
Moved to the Boiler Room. Perhaps the folks here have run this furnace and can offer some tips on how to keep the flue temp up above the condensation point.
Explain how the furnace is being run from loading to continuous operation. How is the wood loaded? Are the overfire air ports open?
Moved to the Boiler Room. Perhaps the folks here have run this furnace and can offer some tips on how to keep the flue temp up above the condensation point.
Last edited:
maple1
Minister of Fire
Could be all kinds of factors contributing to this. Wet wood, improper operation, inadequate chimney conditions or construction, poor install. Most of which we don't know much about.
Says the wood is 2 yr seasoned. I would start by opening up the upper secondary (overfire) air ports a lttle for complete combustion and if necessary, shorten the chain on the lower draft door so that a low fire is sustained when heat is not being called for.
It is an old furnace and I do have a barocheck draft regulator on the stove pipe, when the under fire damper is open, the barocheck draft regulator is closed and vise versa. The company that installed the ss liner did not insulate it, and I didn't know until recently they made insulation for them. The flue exhaust on the stove is 8 inch and the ss liner is 8 inch as well. I will load up the stove with wood and let it burn until the stove begins short cycling and then i will go check it and add more wood. The wood is loaded toward the back. The overfire ports are completely closed.
Not sure if anyone asked but is the furnace sized for heating needs? If it's too many BTUs for what you need it's going to heat the house very quickly and then shut down before it can really get into proper temperature range for a good burn. Then sit for a long enough period to start cooling down again.
Also I would open the over fire air ports. Not sure why you would want to run them completely shut. You probably can't produce a good secondary without any air above the fire.
Also I would open the over fire air ports. Not sure why you would want to run them completely shut. You probably can't produce a good secondary without any air above the fire.
My house is approx. 2300 square feet and the stove says the output is 130,000 BTU's. The reason for the closed over fire ports is the manual I downloaded for the stove said for wood that a more closed position is more desired when burning wood as compared to coal. I appreciate the help so far, I'm still learning.
