Thick wall through wall help

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

corydupuis

New Member
Sep 26, 2022
7
Ny
Im replacing a brick chimney .i have a opening but my wall is 18inches thick. Can i use a 24 inch piece of duravent to replace the 9 inch length that comes with the thimble to get my desired length?
 
Yes, as long as the 24" DuraVent pipe is their class A chimney pipe that matches the tee chimney pipe type (DuraPlus or DuraTech). And a proper wall thimble is used to maintain the required clearance.
 
Yes, as long as the 24" DuraVent pipe is their class A chimney pipe that matches the tee chimney pipe type (DuraPlus or DuraTech). And a proper wall thimble is used to maintain the required clearance.
Thanks,im planning to using double wall stove pipe to connect to the chimney pipe ,do i need a separate adapter to connect the two? Doest the chimney pipe have a thimble end designed for single wall?
 
Stovepipe is not permitted to pass thru a wall. It has an entirely different and much higher clearance requirement.
Duravent makes an adapter to attach single or double-wall stove pipe to the female end of the chimney pipe. 6DT-FC

Screen Shot 2022-09-28 at 12.36.40 PM.png
 
Assuming this is a traditional masonry wall, at that thickness?

No comment on the chimney product selection, @begreen knows way more about that than me. But speaking as someone who deals with old houses and metals in sometimes-corrosive environments, the age and type of masonry will dictate the concentration of salts and moisture to which this thimble is exposed, which could have lifetime implications. If very old (pre-Portland cement era) masonry, I'd be checking materials used on each option, and selecting 316 stainless outer over 304, if available. Both will work for some period of time much longer than any coated steel, but 316 is superior to more common 304 in any application exposed to salt and water.

Stove connection thimbles in old masonry walls used to be heavily-glazed terracotta, of which I have maybe a half dozen (all unused) in my house, but all indoor-only transitions between a room and a masonry chimney. I don't think they'd hold up well to weather, if penetrating the wall to outside, nor do I know if there's even an approved version of them available for today's chimney systems.
 
Last edited:
A picture or two would be good. I am assuming the additional depth is due to the chimney removal, but there may be other factors involved here depending on the wall construction. Some visual cues would be helpful.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
Assuming this is a traditional masonry wall, at that thickness?

No comment on the chimney product selection, @begreen knows way more about that than me. But speaking as someone who deals with old houses and metals in sometimes-corrosive environments, the age and type of masonry will dictate the concentration of salts and moisture to which this thimble is exposed, which could have lifetime implications. If very old (pre-Portland cement era) masonry, I'd be checking materials used on each option, and selecting 316 stainless outer over 304, if available. Both will work for some period of time much longer than any coated steel, but 316 is superior to more common 304 in any application exposed to salt and water.

Stove connection thimbles in old masonry walls used to be heavily-glazed terracotta, of which I have maybe a half dozen (all unused) in my house, but all indoor-only transitions between a room and a masonry chimney. I don't think they'd hold up well to weather, if penetrating the wall to outside, nor do I know if there's even an approved version of them available for today's chimney systems.
The thickness has to do with it being a old log cabin. I removed the masonry chimney that was here and am running a through wall to an already existing through ceiling hole that the previous chimney went through.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
Got it. This is a combustible opening. The thru-wall connection must be done with class A chimney pipe as an extension off of the tee snout.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
New problem, i cant figure out how this wall mount works. Its a supervent..i looks like it just sits on the mounting plate but then if you wanna take the cap out you have to remove the wall support..? Im confused

20220929_194651.jpg 20220929_194640.jpg 20220929_194611.jpg 20220929_194614.jpg