Thinking so adding a stove in the basement

[Smoked]

I have one of my Heritage stoves in an install very similar to that in my basement. I found an 8021 4" legs new to get the back of the stove just inside the opening but 90% is out on the hearth. Homesteads are short too. Line the chimney for sure. Mine chimney is 31 feet and I put a damper in the snout of the tee and use it when the temp is below 30f.

 

[Smoked]

I have one of my Heritage stoves in an install very similar to that in my basement. I found an 8021 4" legs new to get the back of the stove just inside the opening but 90% is out on the hearth. Homesteads are short too. Line the chimney for sure. Mine chimney is 31 feet and I put a damper in the snout of the tee and use it when the temp is below 30f.

 

[mass_burner]

If you mean the older Jotul 602 definitely add a key damper. Strong draft will cause it to burn hot. The stove is a very willing heater but it's easy to overfire without vigilant regulation. The air control is not airtight. Also, without a key damper in the flue it tends to send up too much heat up the chimney.

They have inline adapter pipes with the key damper built in. I have one on my 602.

 

[Enzo's Dad]

So I think I may start with a used 602 and a stainless liner. I found this for sale. What do you think this is worth and would it clean up?

 

[Ashful]

It can always be cleaned up, and I've brought back machinery worse than that... but is it worth your time and effort? Perhaps someone else can comment on the cost.

 

[begreen]

This stove with enameling and the top trivet in excellent condition, inside and out, can sell for about $400-500 during peak season. Painted in great condition without the trivet about $300-400 peak season price. Off season price will vary maybe 20% less.

Are the side burn plates missing? What shape is the baffle in? Any cracks? If you have the burn plates and they plus the baffle are in good condition then I would say $200-$250. If the side plates are missing then $50-$100 and if the baffle is also cracked or warped, then free.

Moving this thread to the classics for the old F602. Parts prices can be found here.
http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/catalogs/Wood-and-Coal-Stove-Manufacturers-Cross-Reference.html

 

[Enzo's Dad]

I am getting pretty good with an angle grinder with the wire brush attachment, I always have time for projects..... Just finishing them all

 

[Enzo's Dad]

Thanks I was going to ask to have it moved.....

 

[Enzo's Dad]

And thanks I was thinking 175 the top baffle is there as well as the side plates

 

[begreen]

If the baffle and side plates are in excellent condition (no hairline cracks, no warping) then the stove is worth $175. It will clean up easily with a wire brush on a drill and then some steelwooling. Wipe down with alcohol and then use Stove Brite metallic black paint to bring it back to original beauty.

Before refinishing you might want to put a bright light in the stove while in a darkened room and from the outside look for any light leaks at the seams. If you see some then it will need a quick teardown, seam sealing and reassembly. I also added a rear burn plate to protect the backside. That area can crack under the flue collar if the stove is overfired due to the lack of rear protection.

 

[Enzo's Dad]

Thanks....I think I am going to try it out
What did you use to make the rear plate?

 

[Ashful]

I am getting pretty good with an angle grinder with the wire brush attachment, I always have time for projects..... Just finishing them all

I'd either take it somewhere that can blast it for you, or fab up an electrolysis tank for it. Angle grinders are for amateur hour. Every town has someone who sand blasts machinery, gym equipment, or autos.

 

[bholler]

I'd either take it somewhere that can blast it for you, or fab up an electrolysis tank for it. Angle grinders are for amateur hour. Every town has someone who sand blasts machinery, gym equipment, or autos.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a wire wheel and an angle grinder. there is not enough detail or heavy rust on that jotul for me to justify blasting it. If it was me i would tear it down completely wire wheel each piece then reassemble and paint it. total would be about 6 to 7 hours not taking into account the dry time between assembly and paint. It there was more detail then yes i would say blast it but that would be an easy 1 hour job with a grinder.

 

[Ashful]

To each his own. Having a bad habit of inheriting and buying old machinery, I kept the local sand blasters pretty busy for a number of years, and find that the preferred way to go. I value my time, and grew tired of tasting rust many years ago, so I favor blasting. Small stuff goes in my own blast cabinet, and stuff larger than 30" on any side goes to the local blasting shop. The profiling left by blasting cast iron will provide superior paint adhesion to any wire-wheeled surface. Just don't blast anything you want to keep as bare cast iron (eg. planed machinery tables), as blasting will take it's soul away.

 

[begreen]

Thanks....I think I am going to try it out
What did you use to make the rear plate?

10 ga steel. I cut a cardboard template to fit under the baffle. A buddy cut it out for me with a plasma cutter. The plate is held in place with #10 machine screws with an nut on each screw inside to act as a spacer.



I had the stove taken apart, sealed and reassembled in a Sunday morning. That included drilling out and retapping a couple busted out bolts. It is a very simple stove.

 

[Enzo's Dad]

Thanks for the advice. I think I will try taking it apart cleaning it with wire brushes and painting it. I would love to have it sandblasted but the problem with the 602 is that a new one is $900. If I bought one used for 175 and put 150 into it it makes sense. Anything over that buying a new one looks more attractive.

The other thing is once the liner is installed if I don't like the performance of the 602 I'll just replace it with one of the stoves we mentioned earlier in the post.

I will pick up that used 602 this weekend and keep you posted..

Begreen I was wondering if the stove performed any better with that back plate

 

[bholler]

To each his own. Having a bad habit of inheriting and buying old machinery, I kept the local sand blasters pretty busy for a number of years, and find that the preferred way to go. I value my time, and grew tired of tasting rust many years ago, so I favor blasting. Small stuff goes in my own blast cabinet, and stuff larger than 30" on any side goes to the local blasting shop. The profiling left by blasting cast iron will provide superior paint adhesion to any wire-wheeled surface. Just don't blast anything you want to keep as bare cast iron (eg. planed machinery tables), as blasting will take it's soul away.

Yes I know the benefits of blasting I also know the cost comparison between me charging my shop rate to do it and me paying to have it done. And on a simple small stove like that one i can do it cheaper and as well with a wire wheel. Actually i usually use an abrasive rope wheel they leave a better texture for paint. But yes there are many cases that i have things blasted or do it myself. But in this case i don't see that it is worth the cost personally.

 

[mass_burner]

OP, is it my eyes going or that door knob broken off.

 

[Enzo's Dad]

I think it is....

 

[mass_burner]

I think it is....

The door will not open easily with the handle like that, it takes a little muscle to lift the handle up and if it's jagged or missing, that's not ideal.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the advice. I think I will try taking it apart cleaning it with wire brushes and painting it. I would love to have it sandblasted but the problem with the 602 is that a new one is $900. If I bought one used for 175 and put 150 into it it makes sense. Anything over that buying a new one looks more attractive.

The other thing is once the liner is installed if I don't like the performance of the 602 I'll just replace it with one of the stoves we mentioned earlier in the post.

I will pick up that used 602 this weekend and keep you posted..

Begreen I was wondering if the stove performed any better with that back plate

No major change in performance, but the temperature of the back of the stove dropped dramatically. I think the F602CB has a back burn plate now.

 

[Ashful]

Would it be worth just doing the mechanical repairs and running it, to see how it works for you, before putting time or cost on the clean up and repaint?

 

[Enzo's Dad]

I wouldn't take that long....to clean and paint besides I'll be able to sell it quicker cleaned up if I don't like it..

I'm thinking an off white for color

 

[Enzo's Dad]

Played around with a wire brush on an angle grinder. It does clean up nice

 

[Ashful]

Love that casting. I remember seeing one of these in a green enamel, that looked very sharp. I think it may have been a standard Jotul color, at one time.