I have the 11 gpm pump and 6.5 briggs motor. I am debating on buying a 13 gpm pump to see if there is any difference in cycle time and if the motor can handle it. Any thoughts?
Those of you with 22ton Spee Co. or Husky Log Splitters...
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yes, it will be the same engine hp requirement on slow speed, high pressure because the small gear section is the same in both pumps (assuming Haldex Barnes). Only the larger section is different. You may have to back down the unloading pressure (the point around 600 to 800 psi where it unloads the large section and continues on at slower speed) a bit, but I think the 6.5 should handle it just fine.
So, on high speed, whatever cycle time you have now will be increased by the ratio of 13/11 for flow, or 11/13 for time. e.g if it was a 13 second cycle before, it will be 11 seconds now, or about 15% better. Straight ratio. Cycle on Slow speed will not change.
Flow is speed, pressure times cylinder area is force.
15% may not sound like much, but it all helps. Time is money.
I recommend a 13 almost always over the 11, it takes basically the same hp engine, pulls the same maximum psi and tonnage in the low speed high pressure mode, but gets a bit more speed most fo the time. Including in retract mode. They are a bit harder to find on ebay or in the stores though. Mainly because everyone thinks 11 gpm, and most are already built with 11 gpm pumps.
Thought I had a new 13 coming at good price for a project I am working on, but may have found a deadbeat ebay seller.....
kcj
So, on high speed, whatever cycle time you have now will be increased by the ratio of 13/11 for flow, or 11/13 for time. e.g if it was a 13 second cycle before, it will be 11 seconds now, or about 15% better. Straight ratio. Cycle on Slow speed will not change.
Flow is speed, pressure times cylinder area is force.
15% may not sound like much, but it all helps. Time is money.
I recommend a 13 almost always over the 11, it takes basically the same hp engine, pulls the same maximum psi and tonnage in the low speed high pressure mode, but gets a bit more speed most fo the time. Including in retract mode. They are a bit harder to find on ebay or in the stores though. Mainly because everyone thinks 11 gpm, and most are already built with 11 gpm pumps.
Thought I had a new 13 coming at good price for a project I am working on, but may have found a deadbeat ebay seller.....
kcj
Thanks Kevin, thats what I thought. My pump is actually in good shape, I figured if I came across one on ebay etc that I would give it a try. All the mounts look like the same right?
triptester
Feeling the Heat
The outside dimensions and mountings are the same for the 11 and 13 gpm pumps. Be sure to permanently mark them so in the future you can tell them apart.
Perfect! Thanks guys! One more thought, do you know if the inlet and outlets are the same on the 11 and 13.6? Do they have different rotation, ie clockwise and counter? Its a pump so I asume not but I am not a hydrolic guy.
here is the link to the haldex barnes pumps.
http://www.haldex.com/Global/Hydraulics/Product Catalogs/hi_lo_pg_rev1203.pdf
the inlet may be different from 11 to 13.
Yes there is rotation differences. Cut and pasted some info below.
Step one is to determine if the pump is indeed a Haldex/Barnes. Other manufacturers are MTE (in Rockford IL), and Dynamic (China copy). Haldex (the builder) numbers are typically 6 or 7 digits long. The website info is different in the first few digits now from past production. Northern Hydr (the most common retailer) has 4 digit stock numbers on old stuff, slightly different on new stuff. So your tag numbers may not match the Haldex website numbers directly.
In and out ports are different with rotation direction. Some gear pumps have bi-rotational check valves in the shaft seal area and can be turned either direction (plumbing must be reversed of course). However two stage pumps have the check and unloading valves machined in one side and are not reversible. Most of the consumer stuff is for direct drive from small gas engines, which by tradition are usually counter clockwise CCW viewing the crankshaft output (CW viewing the flywheel/fan/recoil start end), so that means CW viewing the pump input shaft. Note: It is rare, but Haldex has a CCW version in the 11 gpm series, so be cautious if buying something used or from ebay. Gear pumps move oil from the inlet port around the OUTSIDE of the gears, then out the outlet as the gears come into mesh. The easiest way to check is to put some oil in the inlet port, and turn the shaft until the oil goes down or up in the port. This will show if the oil is taken away from input port, meaning the shaft is turning in the correct direction.
kcj
http://www.haldex.com/Global/Hydraulics/Product Catalogs/hi_lo_pg_rev1203.pdf
the inlet may be different from 11 to 13.
Yes there is rotation differences. Cut and pasted some info below.
Step one is to determine if the pump is indeed a Haldex/Barnes. Other manufacturers are MTE (in Rockford IL), and Dynamic (China copy). Haldex (the builder) numbers are typically 6 or 7 digits long. The website info is different in the first few digits now from past production. Northern Hydr (the most common retailer) has 4 digit stock numbers on old stuff, slightly different on new stuff. So your tag numbers may not match the Haldex website numbers directly.
In and out ports are different with rotation direction. Some gear pumps have bi-rotational check valves in the shaft seal area and can be turned either direction (plumbing must be reversed of course). However two stage pumps have the check and unloading valves machined in one side and are not reversible. Most of the consumer stuff is for direct drive from small gas engines, which by tradition are usually counter clockwise CCW viewing the crankshaft output (CW viewing the flywheel/fan/recoil start end), so that means CW viewing the pump input shaft. Note: It is rare, but Haldex has a CCW version in the 11 gpm series, so be cautious if buying something used or from ebay. Gear pumps move oil from the inlet port around the OUTSIDE of the gears, then out the outlet as the gears come into mesh. The easiest way to check is to put some oil in the inlet port, and turn the shaft until the oil goes down or up in the port. This will show if the oil is taken away from input port, meaning the shaft is turning in the correct direction.
kcj
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