Timberline Sharpener
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Prof
Minister of Fire
I doubt that anything would work better than the stock cutters. They last a long time though. I haven't kept track of how many uses I get from one cutter, but I've only replaced it once so far. I've been using the timberline for about 3 yrs. In that time, I've cut at least 20 cords of wood. The last time I was in my Stihl dealer's shop, he asked me where I was getting my chains sharpened. He thought I was mad at him!
KodiakII
Minister of Fire
The difference between the Timberline and a file guide sharpener and/or a grinding wheel sharpener like a Oregon is the cut is cold on the Timberline plus its extremely portable and accurately indexes each tooth at the preset (stock) 30 degree cutter angle. With a file guide, no matter how good you think you are, you'll impart some rock in your stroke and/or the cutter angle will vary a bit. With a grinder, there is a real chance of overheating the cutter and loosing the temper plus there is always the change to remove too much material and severely decrease chain life (because the cutters will only sharpen so many times and removing a lot of tooth means not to many sharpenings.
The Timberline is patterned after the now defunct Gamin sharpener which also used a tungsten carbide burr type cutter. 40 years ago I had a Gamin and subsequently lost it so when I read about their Timberline some years back, I ordered one immediately.
It's not a cure all one tool does everything sharpener. For one thing, the smaller PICCO chains ( like are used on a top handle arborists saw) are hard to sharpen with the Timberline simply because of the size of the tooth in relationship to the size of the tool. The Timberline is more suited to 325 or 404 chipper chain on a longer bar, where you can support the bar in a stump vise for support.
You'll still have to file the raker's occasionally. If you have a small saw with PICCO cutters, I'd suggest getting a 12 volt sharpener like a Dremel or Oregon that runs of a car battery for a quick touch up. That brings me to a point and that is, don't wait until the chain is dead dull to sharpen. I'll take a break every half hour, clamp on the Timberline and do a quick touch up. Takes 5 minutes and keeps the chain cutting quick.
With the bigger chain and bar length, the Timberline shines.
I've gotten upward of 20 sharpenings on one cutter and yes the cutters have to come from Timberline because the ends are tapered for insertion in the tooth, plus they have a milled in drive flat on the shank that engages the Timberline handle. Stock Carbide burrs (available from companies like Enco or Production Tool, don't have a drive flat on the shank and aren't tapered to insert in the tooth, which is necessary to avoid shattering the brittle carbide cutting teeth on the burr itself, so bite the bullet and get the genuine cutters. and do not turn the cutter backward (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) when sharpening, it will immediately break off all the cutting teeth and render the cutter useless.
If you get one (and the price isn't bad considering how portable and well made the tool is), at some point you'll need a new indexing pawl (besides replacement carbide cutters for each size of chain sharpened). The pawls eventually wear out, but it takes many, many sharpenings.
It comes in a somewhat cheesy little fitted case that holds the sharpener, a couple burrs, the drive handle and a hex key wrench for tightening the handle on the burr and some simple one page instructions. I keep the tool and case in my tool box.
Finally, if you run 404 square tooth chipper chain, the Timberline cannot sharpen it (but then, nothing but a flat file can sharpen square tooth chipper).
It's a good tool for field or shop sharpening, compact and handy and requires no electricity plus it eliminates the rocking and irregular cut from a hand file.
Baileys has them on sale occasionally and Timberline runs specials too. A little careful shopping can net you one for a round a 'C' note with a sharpening burr.
The Timberline is patterned after the now defunct Gamin sharpener which also used a tungsten carbide burr type cutter. 40 years ago I had a Gamin and subsequently lost it so when I read about their Timberline some years back, I ordered one immediately.
It's not a cure all one tool does everything sharpener. For one thing, the smaller PICCO chains ( like are used on a top handle arborists saw) are hard to sharpen with the Timberline simply because of the size of the tooth in relationship to the size of the tool. The Timberline is more suited to 325 or 404 chipper chain on a longer bar, where you can support the bar in a stump vise for support.
You'll still have to file the raker's occasionally. If you have a small saw with PICCO cutters, I'd suggest getting a 12 volt sharpener like a Dremel or Oregon that runs of a car battery for a quick touch up. That brings me to a point and that is, don't wait until the chain is dead dull to sharpen. I'll take a break every half hour, clamp on the Timberline and do a quick touch up. Takes 5 minutes and keeps the chain cutting quick.
With the bigger chain and bar length, the Timberline shines.
I've gotten upward of 20 sharpenings on one cutter and yes the cutters have to come from Timberline because the ends are tapered for insertion in the tooth, plus they have a milled in drive flat on the shank that engages the Timberline handle. Stock Carbide burrs (available from companies like Enco or Production Tool, don't have a drive flat on the shank and aren't tapered to insert in the tooth, which is necessary to avoid shattering the brittle carbide cutting teeth on the burr itself, so bite the bullet and get the genuine cutters. and do not turn the cutter backward (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) when sharpening, it will immediately break off all the cutting teeth and render the cutter useless.
If you get one (and the price isn't bad considering how portable and well made the tool is), at some point you'll need a new indexing pawl (besides replacement carbide cutters for each size of chain sharpened). The pawls eventually wear out, but it takes many, many sharpenings.
It comes in a somewhat cheesy little fitted case that holds the sharpener, a couple burrs, the drive handle and a hex key wrench for tightening the handle on the burr and some simple one page instructions. I keep the tool and case in my tool box.
Finally, if you run 404 square tooth chipper chain, the Timberline cannot sharpen it (but then, nothing but a flat file can sharpen square tooth chipper).
It's a good tool for field or shop sharpening, compact and handy and requires no electricity plus it eliminates the rocking and irregular cut from a hand file.
Baileys has them on sale occasionally and Timberline runs specials too. A little careful shopping can net you one for a round a 'C' note with a sharpening burr.
Michael Golden
Feeling the Heat
I have one and use it exclusively, it works the best with an out of the box chain. If you have a old chain you have been hand sharpening it with take some time getting it back. If you start with a new chain you will love it because it keeps all the teeth on the chain exactly the same, makes resharpening a breeze!
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
I had never seen this product before this thread. I checked out the website and watched the how to video. I am impressed but it is pretty expensive. I file sharpen now, and am capable of getting the chain sharper then when it was new, but I'm only getting maybe 4 or 5 sharpens out of it(and it takes like 30 minutes each time). Anyways, thanks for the heads up, I'll pick one of these up when I feel like spending the money.
ErikR
Burning Hunk
You might try this old discount code when you finally purchase your Timberline.....
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/timberline-chain-sharpener-group-buy.85628/
I picked one up a year or so ago and used the "hearth" code for a discount. No guarantees that it still works. Just trying to save you a few bucks....
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
I tried, no dice. The "hearth" code only comes up as $1.00 off. I also tried the arborist site code listed in that thread, which also didn't work. I guess I'll hold off for now as I just ordered 5 new H47 20" chains for $85 - I thought that was a pretty good deal. Thanks for trying though.
I got mine about 4 weeks ago. I used the code CSSJ $15 off. Not sure if it still works. Good luck.
You won't be sorry (about getting one) and like your file, the Timberline sharpens the chain to a better cutting edge than factory. I suggest wearing light leater gloves when sharpening a chain with it. Pretty easy to cut yourself on an extremely sharp tooth.
I
KodiakII
Minister of Fire
Best to protect yourself from the little razor blades called filings! Take it from me they can be a real pain. If you keep a bit of light oil on the cutter that will also keep them at bay.
Especially when they get in your skin folds on the backside of your knuckles....
Got my Baileys special flyrer today...no Timberline special.....
Got my Baileys special flyrer today...no Timberline special.....
On a 24" bar. Compared with a box of files a dozen at 14 bucks (and it usually takes at least one file every time). 20 bucks for a burr isn't bad. I can run them farther I use 20 as an average. Depends on how you use them, how much material you remove at one time and if you happen to turn them backwards, then they are good for one tooth....
I don't care how good you think you are at hand filing, you can't compete with a jig mounted cutter for repetitive accuracy. Like I said previously, the Timberline is no good for 1/4" PICCO chain on a short bar ot maybe I should say it's doable but a PITA.
I'm happy with mine and obviously they sell a bunch or they wouldn't stay in business.
I don't care how good you think you are at hand filing, you can't compete with a jig mounted cutter for repetitive accuracy. Like I said previously, the Timberline is no good for 1/4" PICCO chain on a short bar ot maybe I should say it's doable but a PITA.
I'm happy with mine and obviously they sell a bunch or they wouldn't stay in business.
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
On a 24" bar. Compared with a box of files a dozen at 14 bucks (and it usually takes at least one file every time). 20 bucks for a burr isn't bad. I can run them farther I use 20 as an average. Depends on how you use them, how much material you remove at one time and if you happen to turn them backwards, then they are good for one tooth....
I don't care how good you think you are at hand filing, you can't compete with a jig mounted cutter for repetitive accuracy. Like I said previously, the Timberline is no good for 1/4" PICCO chain on a short bar ot maybe I should say it's doable but a PITA.
I'm happy with mine and obviously they sell a bunch or they wouldn't stay in business.
The uniformity of the sharpening is what appeals to me the most. I absolutely hate when my saw tries to cut around corners after a fresh hand filing. I've gotten better at making sure that doesn't happen, but you're right - it's never going to be perfect when doing it by hand. The price for the Timberline is high, and the 20 or so sharpenings I'm going to get out of the $20 carbide sort of scares me. I'm still contemplating, but for anyone else thinking about pulling the trigger, the code CSSJ was good for $15 off.
jeffesonm
Minister of Fire
After of years of free-handing with a Dremel I recently bought the Granberg File-N-Joint. So far I am happy with it, produces a nice sharp edge, way more consistent than the Dremel and I would say sharp as a new blade. It takes regular files and I seem to be getting a few sharpenings out of each file, and that's even after "correcting" my Dremel filed chains. I expect now the teeth are consistent the files should last longer.
I agree, the price is high compared to a file jig or even a 12 volt Dremel chainsaw sharpener but it's not compared to say a Speed Sharp Star from Baileys at $319.00 on sale and that still is limited to somewhere with 110 volts, preferrably mounted on a bench, so, it's kind of teat for tat.
The Timberline is a well built, accurate, made here, not China tool (not China is a big plus for me).... and when I said 20 sharpenings I was being conservative but I don't want anyone to think the burrs last forever because they don't. Depending on your technique you may get 50 loops out of a burr, it all boils down to to you.
I have the 12 volt Dremel (I use that on my Arborists 1/8" Picco chain)I also have a less expensive Oregon grinder somewhere in the shop. I find the grinder to be hard to use. May just be me but the Timberline is exceptionally easy for me to sharpen with... but then I used a Gamin years ago and the Gamin was essentially a Timberline in a cruder form. Timberline took the Gamin design and improved it considerably.
I've experienced the 'hand filed' crooked cut as well. I never knew a chainsaw could cut a curve, but it certainly can. The Timberline eliminates that......
I also agree with the poster that stated the Timberline works best on a new loop, I found out right away just how erratic my hand filing was first time I put on the Timberline and walked around a loop. It took me 2 times around to get a consistent cut across every tooth because of the variance in angle so starting with a new loop, all the cutter angles will be a consistent 30 degrees (and you can get optional guides from Timberline to change the cutter angle to 35 degrees for ripping but 30) is fine for my uses. I believe you can order the tool with the 35 degree guides in place of the 30's, I think.
No, I don't wotk for Timberline, in fact, I'm retired. I just appreciate a well made and executed tool thats made here instead of 'over there'.
I've looked at them, but never used one and the Timberline isn't that much more. I'm just super careful with the Dremel on the little chains and use the one with the angle guide built into the end.
Different strokes (literally) for different folks.
jeffesonm
Minister of Fire
The Timberline is a good bit more at $100+ vs $35 for the Granberg. I also like how the Granberg can cut just about any angle and uses standard files. I've never used the Timberline but looks to be a quality piece of equipment; it was really the price that steered me away.
If I rock a chain I put it on the grinder. Without rocking one how many sharpenings do you think you would get? I feel like I get a lot more than 1 sharpening per chain file, but I also touch up my chain after every tank and use the Pferd file and raker file around every 3rd sharpening.On a 24" bar. Compared with a box of files a dozen at 14 bucks (and it usually takes at least one file every time). 20 bucks for a burr isn't bad. I can run them farther I use 20 as an average. Depends on how you use them, how much material you remove at one time and if you happen to turn them backwards, then they are good for one tooth....
I don't care how good you think you are at hand filing, you can't compete with a jig mounted cutter for repetitive accuracy. Like I said previously, the Timberline is no good for 1/4" PICCO chain on a short bar ot maybe I should say it's doable but a PITA.
I'm happy with mine and obviously they sell a bunch or they wouldn't stay in business.
Can't answer that. I have a grinder but prefer the cold method (Timberline or hand file) over the grinder because it's too damn easy to overheat a tooth and loose temper, especially if you have to remove quite a bit of metal (I hit nails and rocks ocassionally, everyone does) but the Timberline is more consistent (no rocking) unlike hand filing.
I said before, seen the Granberg, in fact Baileys sells them but never gor one. Between the grinder (somewhere in the shop), the Dremel and the Timberline, I'm set. Besides I'm only an ocassional chainsaw user. I only have 70 acres or so of mixed hardwood to look after so it's mostly storm damage.
Iquit burning wood and went to biofuel (corn/pellets) a long time ago so everything under 8" gets chipped and over 8' gets sawed to 2 foot lengths and piled so anyone driving by can get a load and I usually have plenty of wood and chips. No issues getting rid of it.
As a side note Michigan is not going to enforce the EPA mandate on outdoor wood burning furnaces.
I hear you on the grinder. Grinding is my last resort. We have very few rocks here and I rarely run into any metal in my wood. I would like to try the Timberline, but haven't spent the $$ yet. The $20 for 20 sharpenings is discouraging, but it sounds like it could be a lot more. I may try one of these days.
My main thrust in getting one is I'm getting up there in years and the older I get the less steady I get with my hands (you know the story about having to use a magnifying glass to thread a needle...believe it.), so hand filing is harder now than when I was 30. The Timberline eliminates my unsteadyness. Thats the big reason I got one actually.
For old farts like me........ There, I admitted it.
For old farts like me........ There, I admitted it.
