Yes. And keeping OAK & vent on the same side of the house will effectively cancel any wind that might blow into the exhaust.So the theory is hot air rises, which will keep the exhaust (gases) above the OAK ?
Yes. And keeping OAK & vent on the same side of the house will effectively cancel any wind that might blow into the exhaust.So the theory is hot air rises, which will keep the exhaust (gases) above the OAK ?
If the OAK is exiting the rim joist, you will have to bring it above the high snow level. Otherwise it should work. Just watch the equivalent length. Excessive length adds resistance to air flow.the wall is below grade and is 8" thick of concrete......
i don't think it can be any worse than the vent or the exhaust going out the rim joist.
i am just wondering it will be safe?
That would be Pellet Meister, wouldn't it?If you want to be a pellet master, you must put in an OAK.
If you do not want to put that cold air into the stove,,,just lay it on the floor instead of hooking to the stove. Let the stove pull room temp air in. The object is to not create a vacuum ,,,does not have to feed directly into the stoveIf I am bringing air in that is -10 instead of the room temp air it is using now does that have an effect? Does the stove cool down using air that is 80 degrees cooler?
True but there are natural air leaks in every house. I am not saying that air is not pulled in and needs to be replenished in some way. I am just curious about the other questions also to see the whole picture. Everyone wants to show me equations which is fine but what about the other questions also. If I put a 2" hole in my wall that will also allow new air to come in.Even at 8 cfm you're talking close to 12,000 cf per day. That's about 1/3 the volume of the house I used in my crude calculations. I think the problem is that we are talking about air infiltration that isnt noticesble because its so spread out. Imagine a hole in the wall of your house bringing in air at the rate of 8cfm.
Hmmmmm never really thought about that method. Is that something you are doing?If you do not want to put that cold air into the stove,,,just lay it on the floor instead of hooking to the stove. Let the stove pull room temp air in. The object is to not create a vacuum ,,,does not have to feed directly into the stove
Yes, my oak lays on the floor beside the stove. It is easy to plug it when stove is not being used to keep cold air out too.Hmmmmm never really thought about that method. Is that something you are doing?
My MVAE was originally done that way. It worked well except when the wind blew against that side of my house. Then a cold draft flowed across the floor. As a result I close coupled the OAK to the stove. It might work well in a less windy location, but didn't work for my location.If you do not want to put that cold air into the stove,,,just lay it on the floor instead of hooking to the stove. Let the stove pull room temp air in. The object is to not create a vacuum ,,,does not have to feed directly into the stove
Looks just like a standard direct vent gas heater setup.Selkirk makes a nifty setup for pellet stoves.I have wondered-yours and selkirks intake is very close together,but most stove mfg's specify a distance between them,usually 4 foot,except in vertical installs.Does this make yours and theirs illegal?Food for thought.BobOn the multi-fuel stoves we sell we have a balanced air intake that runs in down the outer flue pipe with the exhaust running out through the inner flue. Pellets are an easy burn but other biomass need this warmed induction air to run effectively. In lab standard testing we achieved an efficiency increase from 88-95% so there is no question that a heat extracting Oak kit works. The trick is to not reduce the exhaust temp below condensing point but this is pretty easy to work out. In really cold climes, like all of you guys I guess, it can make the stove a bit harder to start but from there it is all upside. Below is a pic of a standard horizontal flue kit.
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Will post a new thread about legallity.This ought to be good!Have a good day.You need to remember Bob that many recommendations are made without much reference to reason. Our set ups are fully certified in Australia but I cannot speak for the US obviously. Selkirk is not a fly by night operator so I expect it is fine but don't take my word for it. We increase the intake - exhaust distances depending on the amount of air circulation and type of fuel if necessary as well.
My MVAE was originally done that way. It worked well except when the wind blew against that side of my house. Then a cold draft flowed across the floor. As a result I close coupled the OAK to the stove. It might work well in a less windy location, but didn't work for my location.
The cfm moved by the blower can be fairly accurately estimated if the static pressure is known.The equations and calculator on here basically do no good because we don't know the number to put in. Take my stove for example. The cfm that it can move is when it is sitting on a bench. The rating is at the end of the assembly. My stove has a manual adjustment and my fan is running at about half. Then the air it is sucking has to come through a tube then through the inside of the stove and out the vent. Now add to that I have my damper open about a half inch if that. What is my cfm? It is unknown but I would lean more towards the 8 someone mentioned then the 25, 40, or 80 that has been brought up so far. Like I said I am not for or against an oak. I am new to pellet stoves and have a lot of questions before I pop a hole in my wall. Does moisture cause issues? If I am bringing air in that is -10 instead of the room temp air it is using now does that have an effect? Does the stove cool down using air that is 80 degrees cooler?
No, the problem with a vent into the house is that wind increases or decreases the outside pressure with respect to the house. That causes air to flow.Do you think the amount of air going thru the OAK varies because of that wind?
yea, I forgot again that this is a pellet stove thread, sorry.If the OAK and vent of the stove are on the same side of the house they see the same wind pressure and the wind can't, therefore, drive air flow.
Hey harvey,figured you would know-last time had side of stove off,measured intake air speed,measured inside diameter of pipe,came up with 34 cfm,stove running at 1/2 setting(50%). Sounds about right,doesn't it?BobNo, the problem with a vent into the house is that wind increases or decreases the outside pressure with respect to the house. That causes air to flow.
If the OAK and vent of the stove are on the same side of the house they see the same wind pressure and the wind can't, therefore, drive air flow.
I don't really know your stove, but they don't differ all that much. The number sounds within the realm of believable. For a blower running at full speed, I would expect something on the order of 75% of it's label. Volume drops off pretty fast as speed is reduced, but there is no reason to believe that the 50% setting is anywhere near 50% of the speed. It may have been designed in an unquantified way. You know, "that seems fast enough". That approach works for most things until people start asking questions.Hey harvey,figured you would know-last time had side of stove off,measured intake air speed,measured inside diameter of pipe,came up with 34 cfm,stove running at 1/2 setting(50%). Sounds about right,doesn't it?Bob
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